Broad Mites?

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Grow Tech

I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back
I hate to see ppl compare buds to fruit...

first of all I don't smoke fruit.. second of all most fruits that get sprayed are consumed but peeled.. no one eats the outer layer which is sprayed.. so while you might be correct that fruits get sprayed with avid I highly doubt its as bad as spraying a bud I'm gonna be smoking..

Last tell me how many times you rinse your buds before consumption...?? ..

Again not trying to start anything but I can assure you there's many things that will kill broads other than avid specially since it do sent even work on the eggs.. with one spray you still get a good amount of ppms in the finished product.. imagine all these guys dipping there clones weekly...

Remember its medicine for some..
You're certainly entitled to your opinion & I support your desire to produce pure meds. I know very competent growers who have tested ther meds after using avid in veg & they came back clean. My broad mite prob was solved w/one app of avid after a slew of other RXs failed. I do not condone frequent use of avid & always advocate people wear proper ppe and only use it in veg. You've said your peace...now please let those of us that choose to use avid responsibly do so without being preached to.
 

the gnome

Active member
thanks gnome, guess that means its prolly hemp russets? or do i have something besides those 2 that im unaware of...
FML


not sure if the hemp russets are worse than broads...
it'd be fooking scary as hell if they are!!

you know, I read and tried it out that 1 tbs of hy.peroxide to 3 cups of water with a drop or 2 of dish soap takes out white flies and their eggs.
it worked like a charm for me and those lil bastards are a real pain to get rid of imo
one good application knocked out 95% of my prob 45 days in bloom.

do me a favor and try it out on a few branches or what ever you feel comfortable with, if you can and see what it does?
it worked so damn good on WF's I started to wonder if it would have any affect on broads.
 
You're certainly entitled to your opinion & I support your desire to produce pure meds. I know very competent growers who have tested ther meds after using avid in veg & they came back clean. My broad mite prob was solved w/one app of avid after a slew of other RXs failed. I do not condone frequent use of avid & always advocate people wear proper ppe and only use it in veg. You've said your peace...now please let those of us that choose to use avid responsibly do so without being preached to.



Sure thing bro.. don't be offended because you use it.. I have it and have used it! But you also gotta understand that while YOU use avid responsibly and only in vegg there will be many others who won't .. and I honestly don't know what's worse smoking broads or meds that might be sprayed with avid or forbid..
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
The californicus that i introduced into my rooms controlled the broad mite population and allowed me to harvest. but i did get broad mites appearing again a couple days later in different areas.

A major Dutch supplier of biological controls informed me that the recently discovered predatory mite amblyseius swirskii is more effective against broad mites than californicus, also the thrips predator amblyseius cucumeris is effective against broad mites and usually cheaper than the other two mentioned, only thing is they dont like high temperatures.

In fact they dont recommend californicus at all if you have the option of swirskii.

I ordered the swirskii for the remaining broad mites in my garden and i can say that a day later there was not a single broad mite to be found. i have them in my veg rooms too. hopefully i have found a way to control these things without using chems.
 
R

Raw_Dog

Moses, does your local hydro shop sell you the predatory mites or do you search for them online?

Thanks, that was very informative.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
If Your in bud, and have a bad infestation of mites, you usually feel helpless, But I have just pretty much conquered a 150 sq foot patch of mite infested plants. It took four applications of about a gallon each.

ISO adjust it to exactly 50% alcohol and 50% water. Spray under the leaves thoroughly and mist over the top. Do that every third day for 4 times to be safe. It totally wastes the Mites, but 50% wont melt Trichomes.

Spray with lights off or at dusk


I picked this today from that patch. Hows that for previously infested weed?

picture.php


picture.php
 

RetroGrow

Active member
If Your in bud, and have a bad infestation of mites, you usually feel helpless, But I have just pretty much conquered a 150 sq foot patch of mite infested plants. It took four applications of about a gallon each.

ISO adjust it to exactly 50% alcohol and 50% water. Spray under the leaves thoroughly and mist over the top. Do that every third day for 4 times to be safe. It totally wastes the Mites, but 50% wont melt Trichomes.

Spray with lights off or at dusk


I picked this today from that patch. Hows that for previously infested weed?

View Image

View Image

What kind of mites?
Didn't realize that alcohol wouldn't hurt the plants (trichomes).
Good job.
 
I just ordered the A. Swirskii predatory mites here:

http://www.everwoodfarm.biz/home/benificial-insects-by-pest-catagory/whiteflies

An old timer named Dave at Everwood said the swirskii were the way to go for broads. I told him I've been alternating avid and forbid in veg. He recommended a new product before releasing the Swirskii. Its a foliar called nuke em thats food grade non toxic. He also recommended the Z7 for the rez if you're doing Hydro to knock out the broads. Here's the link:

http://www.flyingskull.net/products.php

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

I'll post an update when I get the delivery.
 

Cabron

Member
If Your in bud, and have a bad infestation of mites, you usually feel helpless, But I have just pretty much conquered a 150 sq foot patch of mite infested plants. It took four applications of about a gallon each.

ISO adjust it to exactly 50% alcohol and 50% water. Spray under the leaves thoroughly and mist over the top. Do that every third day for 4 times to be safe. It totally wastes the Mites, but 50% wont melt Trichomes.

Spray with lights off or at dusk


I picked this today from that patch. Hows that for previously infested weed?

View Image

View Image




Super Job Dr P
is that your Nev's x MM gal ??
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
I just ordered the A. Swirskii predatory mites here:

http://www.everwoodfarm.biz/home/benificial-insects-by-pest-catagory/whiteflies

An old timer named Dave at Everwood said the swirskii were the way to go for broads. I told him I've been alternating avid and forbid in veg. He recommended a new product before releasing the Swirskii. Its a foliar called nuke em thats food grade non toxic. He also recommended the Z7 for the rez if you're doing Hydro to knock out the broads. Here's the link:

http://www.flyingskull.net/products.php

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

I'll post an update when I get the delivery.
The swirskii mites have been so effective for me that i doubt you will need any other control, make sure you have enough for the size of your room and release them directly onto the broads. swirskiis were forming a mass on the inside of the lid of the container i carefully divided it up and placed them on top of infested buds 6 days later new healthy bright white pistils!
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
http://www.greenhousecanada.com/content/view/2417/38/

Results showed that a single application of Avid immediately suppressed the broad mite population to close to zero and residual effectiveness was evident for three weeks. A. swirskii was more efficient than N. cucumeris in controlling broad mites, however suppression of broad mite populations did not occur until two weeks after the first predatory mite release.
 
Ive been rotating avid and forbid dunks in veg every other day with mh on raised up, for about four cycles and the weird leaf twisting went away, but mag deficiency and dark leaves with downward cupping was present. I rinsed with water and dunked the plants in nuke em, its like the consistency of car soap....and it seemed to fry a little but it looks like the new growth is vibrant. I also used the Z7 in the rez, another soap that supposedly kills bugs in the entire system.

I previously tried the orchard sulfr on my other crop and it totally fried them but then came back looking clean?...so it worked. Do you recommend rinsing off the sulfer dip with water after? To prevent frying

In the meanwhile'O
Im still waiting on the Swirskiis to get here.
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
http://www.greenhousecanada.com/content/view/2417/38/

Results showed that a single application of Avid immediately suppressed the broad mite population to close to zero and residual effectiveness was evident for three weeks. A. swirskii was more efficient than N. cucumeris in controlling broad mites, however suppression of broad mite populations did not occur until two weeks after the first predatory mite release.
i cant comment on avid i have never used it, and it looks like i wont need it, still no sign of BM in my rooms

GREENHOUSE TRIALS SHOWED BOTH MITES WERE EFFECTIVE
■ In the greenhouse trial on begonias, A. swirskii was compared to N. cucumeris and a non-treated control (Figure 2b). Both predatory mites were equally effective at controlling broad mite infestations to almost zero within one week of release. After two weeks, no broad mite eggs, immatures or adults were found in the A. swirskii and N. cucumeris treatments. Two weeks after the first release, the predatory mites even spread to the control plots and started suppressing the broad mites there too. The predatory mites were reproducing on the plants as eggs were observed in many samples.

At the end of the trial, control plants showed significantly more damage than plants in the predatory mite treatments. However, while pest suppression of broad mites was very rapid, there was still some damage of the treated plants.

A preventive control program against broad mites is advisable to minimize crop damage, especially because broad mites are difficult to detect in a crop and are often only noticed when damage appears, at which point populations can be very high and spread out through the crop.

An IPM program for broad mites in vegetable and ornamental greenhouse crops (e.g., sweet peppers, impatiens and begonias), emphasizing biological control with the predatory mites A. swirskii or N. cucumeris appears to have substantial potential based on the results of our studies. ■

s.
 

the gnome

Active member
i just found more broad mites in my garden :)
looking for my avid and forbid i found a bottle spectracide's triazicide
and found out on top of killing thrips and many other nasties it will kill a variety of mites, broad mites, spider mites and clover mites.
its fairly cheap compared to avid and forbid, about $10 for a 320z bottle
 

the gnome

Active member
If Your in bud, and have a bad infestation of mites, you usually feel helpless, But I have just pretty much conquered a 150 sq foot patch of mite infested plants. It took four applications of about a gallon each.

ISO adjust it to exactly 50% alcohol and 50% water. Spray under the leaves thoroughly and mist over the top. Do that every third day for 4 times to be safe. It totally wastes the Mites, but 50% wont melt Trichomes.

Spray with lights off or at dusk


I picked this today from that patch. Hows that for previously infested weed?

View Image

View Image

way to go purpur,
I used iso a few years back on spider mites in veg,
never tried it in bloom tho because of the alcohol melting
resin, nice to know iso with water works! :smoke:
 

hobb3s93

Member
So by using a scope to look at my flowering plants I shud be able to see them on the flower itself? Is that the best way to determine if u are infected? Sorry I'm so late to this thread
 

Grow Tech

I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back
So by using a scope to look at my flowering plants I shud be able to see them on the flower itself? Is that the best way to determine if u are infected? Sorry I'm so late to this thread
If your pistils start to go brown at 3 weeks and flower development looks behind, that's a common symptom. I initially titled this thread "pistil mites" because that was the symptoms I was seeing and found the little bastards crawling in my flowers

@ Dr Purp
What concentration ISO are u using? 91% ISO cut 50/50 would be a lot different than 50% cut 50/50
 
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