Broad Mites?

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115 is not enough & you are not seeing broad mites. Probably Russett mites.
Or white fly (shake plant to see if white spots fly) .But you should not see anything live moving around if you are using heat like retrow said 120 degrees at top of canopy and If you are spraying OGB TWICE a week for three weeks then once per week for another number of weeks and mixing properly.
 
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Gifted0ne

Thanks for all the help guys its really helpful.. Yea it was soo hot in there for so long that the leaves started curling up a bit must have been 115+ around the canopy where i saw some walking around. I saw lots of spots develop on the top of leaves which did look like russets and were coming out cause of the heat. Some wouldn't move but some were just running around.

Ive had white flys before outside but these are sooo tiny and i havent seen anything fly when blown on hard, but who knows.. Im pretty surprised the heat and + I been sprayin OGBIO pretty thickly on this plant and its still crawling with these things.

Yea i was at rite aid looking at the aspirin for like 15 mins every single bottle said coated in some form, and missed the "micro" coating on the one i got. But i will go to CVS today.

I dosed the shit out of it with mighty wash and will try the heat again in the future maybe 130 with all the room vents covered.. For some reason its tough in my small room with 2 heaters.
 
yup

yup

Thanks for all the help guys its really helpful.. Yea it was soo hot in there for so long that the leaves started curling up a bit must have been 115+ around the canopy where i saw some walking around. I saw lots of spots develop on the top of leaves which did look like russets and were coming out cause of the heat. Some wouldn't move but some were just running around.

Ive had white flys before outside but these are sooo tiny and i havent seen anything fly when blown on hard, but who knows.. Im pretty surprised the heat and + I been sprayin OGBIO pretty thickly on this plant and its still crawling with these things.

Yea i was at rite aid looking at the aspirin for like 15 mins every single bottle said coated in some form, and missed the "micro" coating on the one i got. But i will go to CVS today.

I dosed the shit out of it with mighty wash and will try the heat again in the future maybe 130 with all the room vents covered.. For some reason its tough in my small room with 2 heaters.

I use separate 1200 watt halogens for extra heat setting on the floor (2 sets of 2) besides the two or three 1000 watts hps and have this heat thing down to a science. Now it only takes around half a hour to bring it up to 120 for an hour.(And I don't even have to do this much anymore as it's more for my own paranoia relief he- he) In my case I close all venting and turn off all fans and air con and raise the big lights up a few feet. And place thermo's 1 at canopy and 1 just below about eight inches or so in a different place under canopy (in flower room). I have the luxury of surveillance cameras that go to my bedroom tv. One of them are pointed at the thermo readout in the flower room and another in the mother room to look at plant condition and thermo and RH. And I have a thermo wired to a relay that automatically turns lights off for safety reasons if temp goes above 85 degrees .So this is also bypassed. All the very best with your battle.
 

lexalotacus

New member
Hey everyone, I started an account here specifically to post in this thread.

I've been battling either broad or cyclamen mites for at least 5 months now (leaves coming out lighter green and curling down and tucking in on itself, slow growth, yellowing leaves, etc). I have some experience here in Denver I thought I'd share..

I've read just about everything there is to read online about broad mites and they are absolutely horrible creatures if you're trying to maintain a vulnerable monoculture like an indoor cannabis grow. However, there are some things you can try.

I've been having great success (at least keeping them under control) with NukeEm, which is all organic and can be sprayed up until and even after harvest. It's worked great for broad mites and spider mites and I've also used it for PM (powdery mildew).. Spider mites are by far the easiest thing to control in a monoculture though so I've found them to be of little consequence.. Broad mites hate NukeEm, just spray real good and turn the lights off for 3 hours or so and repeat every other day if needed. That's all I did, but I have to warn you guys younger plants and certain strains HATE NukeEm.. Leaves curl up and the plant gets a little stunted.. At least from what I've observed. It can be harsh, but broad mites still take the cake..

Ok also I've been wanting to see what some of you guys think about this... I read a study about broad mite control from the University of Texas and what they found was that the top 3 control agents for broad mite control (both adults and eggs alike) were: Avid, Liquid Sulfur, and believe it or not... Canola oil!

My plan now, since NukeEm is my last resort as it's pretty harsh, is to try some lime sulfur spray or some hot canola oil water spray.. I'm also going to raise the temperature in my grow areas as high as my ladies can tolerate since the broad mites prefer something like 60-75 degrees F.

Please dont hate me guys, I know there's a huge investment in time and energy when you have large crops.. But you shouldn't be spraying poison on food/medicine. If you cant grow food naturally you shouldn't be growing food. There's no argument. Spraying Avid/Forbid is accepting defeat and being lazy and ignorant if you ask me. ;)
 
Welcome to the war...lol. I was going to try and replicate Nuke em as it's just a compound made from bread and you can actually buy the compound . But it's been a while now and I forget the name of the compound but it's used as a preservative I think it was .You can actually buy it cheap in it's raw form . I was looking into what it takes to process it into Nuke-em but lost interest. All the best.
 
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Gifted0ne

Mighty wash is a bit slick and slimy actually and it leaves residue. After using it you gotta wash down the plant good with water cause the mighty wash will burn the plants under lighting. I will take a pic today of the deformed new growth damage of the mites, and in a week take another to show what mighty wash does.
 
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Gifted0ne

It won't kill broad mites. It's made for spider mites, and is just water. Talk about snake oil....

Yea doesn't seem to have any effect on broad mites, but it does rip spider mites in half so its gotta be more then just water. It is a rip off $$ wise either way but it does something to some species.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
All things, living or not, have a certain frequency. Royal Rife discovered many years ago that the stability of physical matter could be destroyed or compromised by simply matching its “frequency.” This phenomenon can be observed when a crystal glass explodes as the sound waves created by an opera singer match the frequency of the crystal. Royal Rife dedicated his life to finding the frequency of various diseases and trying to treat those diseases with a frequency emitting device known as the Rife Machine.

The scientific geniuses behind Mighty Wash have been working with a type of Rife Machine designed to imprint frequency into water. Not only have they found frequencies that destroy pathogenic funguses, like powdery mildew, but they also discovered certain frequencies that destroy spider mites. Water has a unique capability of holding an imprinted frequency. Mighty Wash was created by imprinting water with a frequency known to destroy spider mites.

Mighty Wash is the safest mite specific insecticide on the market. So safe, in fact, that I saw a sales representative drink some of the frequency imprinted water to prove there are no hidden ingredients and that the product was just water. This is the only product that is truly safe to use up until the day of harvest in a medical marijuana garden. Of course, spraying mature medical marijuana buds is never recommended, so caution must be taken in the later stages of blooming. I must say I was very skeptical of this product until I saw it in action. Mighty Wash really does work. The only downfall to this product is its shelf life. Make sure you get a fresh batch because the frequency that is imprinted in the water degrades with time.
 
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Gifted0ne

Any idea if the frequency will harm my bennies if it drips in my res buckets.
 

bobjennings

New member
HI! so I have been scouring this thread for weeks. I think I may have the dreaded broad mites but i have scoped and scoped and scoped and never identified any or eggs.... Everything looks like trichomes, but I could be missing the mites and mistaking them as trichomes. But for weeks the plants were super droopy looking like symptoms of being overwatered but they definitely weren't over watered. Signs of nitrogen toxicity seemed present as well. i hit with Avid once and then again after 7 days....Now I am a couple weeks into flower and some of the white hairs are looking burnt or eaten and turning orange. And now some leaves are really obviously thin claw like leaves curling way under themselves. so it worries me these fuckers are still reining. I still cant identify any with the scope. I've never seen anything moving.

I've read so many of the posts on this thread but I just want to be clear because theres so much information...

What can i do or use to fight them in flower? Neem oil (up until what point?), predator mites...what else?

The predator mites dont harm the plants?

and also I read a bunch on the prevention of broad mites and doing a dunk on small plants.
What is the dunk process? Is it the roots or the whole plant? and what mixture do you use...Should I just dunk Avid or do a forbid dunk as well....
 
G

Gifted0ne

HI! so I have been scouring this thread for weeks. I think I may have the dreaded broad mites but i have scoped and scoped and scoped and never identified any or eggs.... Everything looks like trichomes, but I could be missing the mites and mistaking them as trichomes. But for weeks the plants were super droopy looking like symptoms of being overwatered but they definitely weren't over watered. Signs of nitrogen toxicity seemed present as well. i hit with Avid once and then again after 7 days....Now I am a couple weeks into flower and some of the white hairs are looking burnt or eaten and turning orange. And now some leaves are really obviously thin claw like leaves curling way under themselves. so it worries me these fuckers are still reining. I still cant identify any with the scope. I've never seen anything moving.

I've read so many of the posts on this thread but I just want to be clear because theres so much information...

What can i do or use to fight them in flower? Neem oil (up until what point?), predator mites...what else?

The predator mites dont harm the plants?

and also I read a bunch on the prevention of broad mites and doing a dunk on small plants.
What is the dunk process? Is it the roots or the whole plant? and what mixture do you use...Should I just dunk Avid or do a forbid dunk as well....

If you dont see any with a lens then exactly why are you spraying as if its the problem? Could be a disease or you may just be using imbalanced nutes, ph off, excessive heat etc.

You arent spraying with avid at all in flower right? Ive just successfully healed my plant for the 2nd time from russets using 2 applications of mighty wash. Its the only thing that has worked for me so far. Plus ive added 325mg per gallon Aspirin to res as Retro advised and it seems to really help.

I Spray with Mighty wash/Rinse thorough, then next day hit with og biowar and leave that for 3 days, then come back hit it with mighty wash/Rinse again and this combined with Aspirin has been super effective.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
HI! so I have been scouring this thread for weeks. I think I may have the dreaded broad mites but i have scoped and scoped and scoped and never identified any or eggs.... Everything looks like trichomes, but I could be missing the mites and mistaking them as trichomes. But for weeks the plants were super droopy looking like symptoms of being overwatered but they definitely weren't over watered. Signs of nitrogen toxicity seemed present as well. i hit with Avid once and then again after 7 days....Now I am a couple weeks into flower and some of the white hairs are looking burnt or eaten and turning orange. And now some leaves are really obviously thin claw like leaves curling way under themselves. so it worries me these fuckers are still reining. I still cant identify any with the scope. I've never seen anything moving.

I've read so many of the posts on this thread but I just want to be clear because theres so much information...

What can i do or use to fight them in flower? Neem oil (up until what point?), predator mites...what else?

The predator mites dont harm the plants?

and also I read a bunch on the prevention of broad mites and doing a dunk on small plants.
What is the dunk process? Is it the roots or the whole plant? and what mixture do you use...Should I just dunk Avid or do a forbid dunk as well....

Look for eggs, not mites. The eggs are easy to see under leaves. Cut off a few damaged looking leaves and scope carefully with a 100X scope and bright light. If you have mites, you will see eggs. Also, add 325 Mb. PLAIN (not coated) aspirin per gallon of your mix. This should perk the plants up in 12 hours, and mitigates the toxins the mites inject, if you have mites. I would not treat with chems without confirmation that mites are really the problem. If you are in flower, you can't use chems. Heat treatment is your best option at that stage, but confirm first before doing anything. Do not use hot water treatment. It will mess up the plants. Heat room to 120 F, fans and AC off, lights on as heat source. May have to add more lights or space heaters to reach 120F. That will kill mites.
 
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Gifted0ne

With Mighty Wash and without
Goodplant_zps6cd6f577.jpg


Thats the first time, good plant became infested again and the mighty wash is bringing it back again, 115degrees didnt work nor ogbiowar on its own.
 

bobjennings

New member
If you dont see any with a lens then exactly why are you spraying as if its the problem? Could be a disease or you may just be using imbalanced nutes, ph off, excessive heat etc.

You arent spraying with avid at all in flower right? Ive just successfully healed my plant for the 2nd time from russets using 2 applications of mighty wash. Its the only thing that has worked for me so far. Plus ive added 325mg per gallon Aspirin to res as Retro advised and it seems to really help.



Hi I sprayed Avid as a preventative in veg, as many on here suggest. I have an 11 week strain too so long time for it to leave the plants system. Everyone in town has broad mites destroying their whole rooms so when I had continual unexplainable issues it was my first thought that it could be the broad mites. Its definitely not PH i've been watching that religiously because when they were droopy I thought that was the issue, its not heat the temps have been perfect. No I am not spraying chems in flower, that is why I was consulting on here as to what my choices are for treatment in flower....earlier in this thread people say they sprayed Conserve SC until week 6 of flower and others say they used neem oil through flower which I was asking about on my post....


so whats the consensus on the neem and spinosad?
and then I was wondering about dunk methods for clones/cuttings....


I'll try the aspirin.

Thanks
 

lexalotacus

New member
HI! so I have been scouring this thread for weeks. I think I may have the dreaded broad mites but i have scoped and scoped and scoped and never identified any or eggs.... Everything looks like trichomes, but I could be missing the mites and mistaking them as trichomes. But for weeks the plants were super droopy looking like symptoms of being overwatered but they definitely weren't over watered. Signs of nitrogen toxicity seemed present as well. i hit with Avid once and then again after 7 days....Now I am a couple weeks into flower and some of the white hairs are looking burnt or eaten and turning orange. And now some leaves are really obviously thin claw like leaves curling way under themselves. so it worries me these fuckers are still reining. I still cant identify any with the scope. I've never seen anything moving.

I've read so many of the posts on this thread but I just want to be clear because theres so much information...

What can i do or use to fight them in flower? Neem oil (up until what point?), predator mites...what else?

The predator mites dont harm the plants?

and also I read a bunch on the prevention of broad mites and doing a dunk on small plants.
What is the dunk process? Is it the roots or the whole plant? and what mixture do you use...Should I just dunk Avid or do a forbid dunk as well....

I have the same symptoms but am using NukeEm/ diatomaceous earth
 

bobjennings

New member
Look for eggs, not mites. The eggs are easy to see under leaves. Cut off a few damaged looking leaves and scope carefully with a 100X scope and bright light. If you have mites, you will see eggs.

are the eggs distinctly larger than trichomes...I feel like I see eggs everywhere but then again I think its trichomes... All the photos on this forum never give a magnification at which the eggs are being photographed and the eggs always seem so alone in the photos with no trichomes in sight....

I just want to find these bastards and know i am looking at them.

My symptoms just seem so much like borad mites.

The pistils that turn orange and look burnt up also have the super long thin witch like claw leafs that curl under themselves surround those effected buds.
 
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