Anyone familiar with leaves doing this?
- Thread starter fungusshui
- Start date
Thank you for posting. Yes, I have seen this before, and it's an easy fix. You need to take the wood mulch off the soil because it ties up the nitrogen and holds moisture too long. Your plant is having trouble transpiring gases from the root zone. Your plant should recover in a week or sooner. Keep us posted friend.
fungusshui
New member
Thanks for the reply! I will put down some straw mulch instead. Strange though, of the four plants, all covered with wood mulch, only the one is showing that in the leaves. Will keep you posted for sure
NEED 4 SEED
Well-known member
Overwatered maybe
NEED 4 SEED
Well-known member
Probably better not to mulch
exoticrobotic
Well-known member
Looks like they are a bit overwatered and too cold.
Did they get some frost/wind damage?
Did they get some frost/wind damage?
fungusshui
New member
Practicing organic and going for a living soil. Most folks I are doing that are mulching of not adding a cover crop to boot
fungusshui
New member
They have a heater clock on to keep ‘em around 70ish and if anything I haven’t watered too much as the mulch has really helped keep the soil moist, maybe too much so. I’m scratching my head because there are three other plants (albeit other strains) in the same conditions, potted/mulched the same.
Three Berries
Active member
I use green wood mulch around the yard and dump CAN and crabgrass preventer (to keep trees from sprouting) fertilizer on it to add the extra N. The chips are broke down by the microbe and fungi community and turn into dirt but it takes 4 years or so. Good way to make dirt over time.
Three Berries
Active member
I had a slight accident this last grow with one of my current flower plants when in veg. Had a bucket heater on it and it got too hot when I took it out to defoliate and got the sensors mixed up, in the past this killed one.
But it looked droopy and you can tell it's way too wet for what it's transpiring due to root damage. So I dumped a half pint of 3% H2O2 in the soil and it survive. Stunted but over all the healthiest looking of the three not showing the K problems.
Apparently the O2 that's released into the soil helps in that kind of a situation.
But it looked droopy and you can tell it's way too wet for what it's transpiring due to root damage. So I dumped a half pint of 3% H2O2 in the soil and it survive. Stunted but over all the healthiest looking of the three not showing the K problems.
Apparently the O2 that's released into the soil helps in that kind of a situation.
Ca++
Well-known member
3%? Jesus. You would hear that fizz.
That would kill off nearly all microlife. Halting the attack of rot causing nasties. While the stagnant water would be fixed up, with the oxygen the plant needs to grow.
Oxygen depletion can be fast. Plant's can't grow without it. While non-aerobic bacteria get the upper hand. It's the constant battle of DWC users.
Most won't use it in soil. Especially with goals like growing a microherd, not killing it. However, many peoples tap water actually contains levels that hydro users aim for with h2o2. While their feed comes from bottles, not friendly bacteria. So much of this avoidance could be detrimental. When you actively try to kill off things with h2o2, you realise that actually it's hard work. Easy to kill the bad stuff, while actually helping the good stuff.
3% though. I need a sit down after that revelation.
That would kill off nearly all microlife. Halting the attack of rot causing nasties. While the stagnant water would be fixed up, with the oxygen the plant needs to grow.
Oxygen depletion can be fast. Plant's can't grow without it. While non-aerobic bacteria get the upper hand. It's the constant battle of DWC users.
Most won't use it in soil. Especially with goals like growing a microherd, not killing it. However, many peoples tap water actually contains levels that hydro users aim for with h2o2. While their feed comes from bottles, not friendly bacteria. So much of this avoidance could be detrimental. When you actively try to kill off things with h2o2, you realise that actually it's hard work. Easy to kill the bad stuff, while actually helping the good stuff.
3% though. I need a sit down after that revelation.
fungusshui
New member
Gotcha, not looking for mulch to provide nutrients. I used the craft blend from build a soil mixed in with the stonington blend (a water only soil from coast of Maine) and some mushroom compost and top dressed some wood ash, will be doing compost tea for further. Have used (straw) mulch in the past, not for fertility but for keeping moisture in as well as protect the soil life. Hadn’t used the wood mulch before but took it from my garden as it had some fungus on it and was hoping to augment the biology in the soil
Still a beginner here though - wanting to learn
Ca++
Well-known member
Wood is a particular problem, though I don't remember what. My focus isn't bio grows. For you though, the mulch slowing the dry back, is actually the problem. As it's so cool anyway.
With a 'water only' compost, you might be better not adding ash. K (ash) has been the focus of a couple of very good studies recently, and found to do remarkably little. Like.. it didn't do shit. One was outdoors, over 5 sites of very different ground, with good and varied plots, looking at the N/K relationships in particular. Another study was DWC. Only an older study at low N levels saw K to be working towards a better result. I think officially N antagonises K, but before I knew that, I had found it works both ways.
I like buying a good compost, and using it until it asks for feed. I do use it sometimes, as I like the taste it imparts upon the weed. So I'm not totally in the dark about it. I do outdoors to. I lean on the bottle for support though. Having used soil sampling to correct the plots, with typical gardening supplies. Bio is really something else completely. I like my K to come in a box with a percentage on the side. Or I know I would get it wrong.
With a 'water only' compost, you might be better not adding ash. K (ash) has been the focus of a couple of very good studies recently, and found to do remarkably little. Like.. it didn't do shit. One was outdoors, over 5 sites of very different ground, with good and varied plots, looking at the N/K relationships in particular. Another study was DWC. Only an older study at low N levels saw K to be working towards a better result. I think officially N antagonises K, but before I knew that, I had found it works both ways.
I like buying a good compost, and using it until it asks for feed. I do use it sometimes, as I like the taste it imparts upon the weed. So I'm not totally in the dark about it. I do outdoors to. I lean on the bottle for support though. Having used soil sampling to correct the plots, with typical gardening supplies. Bio is really something else completely. I like my K to come in a box with a percentage on the side. Or I know I would get it wrong.
Three Berries
Active member
An update on this plant. It got bud rot and I had to take it out of the tent. The other two are OK. I cut out the bad and put the plant outside seeing as we are near 12/12 with daylight and warm temps, sometimes.
But I wonder if root rot (from the cooked roots) will progress to bud rot?
