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Any ideas? Rando leaf issue.

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
I came back from a few days away and 3 of my plants have 1-2 leaves looking like this. Otherwise plants are healthy and vegging strong. It starts out with the leaf curling sideways, drying up and going crispy. Then the color change occurs with the orange and white burned looking parts.
Effecting Super Malawi Haze, Tikal, and a Neville’s Haze x Panama.

I almost want to say a P deficiency, but it’s so random, only a few leaves here and there, no purple stems, no other signs…

Organic soil, nothing sprayed on them in sunlight, all other leaves show no signs of this. Have been fed with a tea following 3LB guano/EWC recipe. They’re also under a 40% shade cloth. It looks really similar to light burned leaves to me, but no idea how that could happen on just a few and to leaves not in full sunlight either.
 

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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
That may be caused by a dry spot or hot spot in the container. Make sure to water the containers completely and get some run-off and test the EC and pH. I would hold off on the teas for a few waterings too until I'm sure it's not the teas causing the problem. 😎
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
I came back from a few days away and 3 of my plants have 1-2 leaves looking like this. Otherwise plants are healthy and vegging strong. It starts out with the leaf curling sideways, drying up and going crispy. Then the color change occurs with the orange and white burned looking parts.
Effecting Super Malawi Haze, Tikal, and a Neville’s Haze x Panama.

I almost want to say a P deficiency, but it’s so random, only a few leaves here and there, no purple stems, no other signs…

Organic soil, nothing sprayed on them in sunlight, all other leaves show no signs of this. Have been fed with a tea following 3LB guano/EWC recipe. They’re also under a 40% shade cloth. It looks really similar to light burned leaves to me, but no idea how that could happen on just a few and to leaves not in full sunlight either.
It could be leaf septoria, or phoshporus deficiency/lockout. The parchment looking leaves do look like Septoria or some bacterial/fungal infection. However P deficiency often looks a little mouldy and infected. One characteristic is that it is progressive (mobile, moving from node to node), and that some of the leaves will curl upward.

It is hard to determine without a picture of the complete plant. It could be lack of airflow.
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
It could be leaf septoria, or phoshporus deficiency/lockout. The parchment looking leaves do look like Septoria or some bacterial/fungal infection. However P deficiency often looks a little mouldy and infected. One characteristic is that it is progressive (mobile, moving from node to node), and that some of the leaves will curl upward.

It is hard to determine without a picture of the complete plant. It could be lack of airflow.
Airflow is good, I’ll try and snag some full pics later but other than 2-3 leaves on each plant they look great.

So far all leaves showing this curl sideways or roll up at the end, or just kind of dry up from the edges and break off.
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
That may be caused by a dry spot or hot spot in the container. Make sure to water the containers completely and get some run-off and test the EC and pH. I would hold off on the teas for a few waterings too until I'm sure it's not the teas causing the problem. 😎
Everything in my yard gets the same teas and nothing else is showing this issue thankfully. I had a bad batch of tea years ago and it was very obvious very fast. 😂 man that was a brutal experience.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Mineral salts draw moisture from the soil and plants, which can lead to dehydration. The lack of moisture can affect a plant's root system and cause leaves to bronze. When cells are deprived of water, they shrink, collapsing in upon themselves, and, without water as a medium, chemicals and enzymes inside the cells malfunction and burst causing bronzing. Maybe the last few waterings missed a spot of roots in the container or maybe you have a hot spot from heavy salts.. I think its more of a hot dry spot from lack of moisture than from lack of any nutrients. A photo of the plant and soil in the container would help. 😎
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
Soil is evenly moist throughout. Over the last 10 years I’ve dialed my watering system in really well for my local environment.

Primarily effecting my Super Malawi Haze but also to a lesser extent my Tikal. All bad leaves were trimmed off and bagged in case it is a fungal issue. There were only a few on each plant and completely randomly spread.
It’s currently 115° With 21% humidity and my Tikal is a little pissed about it. She’s always a little droopy until the sun starts to set.
SMH


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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Those are very pretty plants. Wow, 115 F is really hot and 21% RH could be your problem? I would shade those plants on days like that CS. You are doing a killer job with those plants they look super. I would love to see those flowering keep us posted. 😎
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
Could it still be getting too much UV light? Do you know what kind of UV transmittance your canopy has?
Not sure on the UV transmit rate of the shade screens, but I’m fairly certain it’s not a UV issue. I have other plants in full sun 10 feet away that are absolutely loving it, and I would also assume it would be a more widespread issue on the plants with more leaves effected if it was UV. Some of these effected leaves came from underneath other leaf canopy areas where they had plenty of shade.

The ones on my Tikal did look very much like light burn initially though.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
That's what the problem is excess heat with intense light is bursting the tissue cells, Open up the greenhouse sides and turn on the high-velocity fans to get more ventilation. I think you could bring down those temps more. Also since you have good strong plants you could add more shade clothe indoors 2 feet over the canopy inside the greenhouse during the excessive heat wave. I'm about 104f or 40C every day too and have to shade about 80% now.😎
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Soil is evenly moist throughout. Over the last 10 years I’ve dialed my watering system in really well for my local environment.

Primarily effecting my Super Malawi Haze but also to a lesser extent my Tikal. All bad leaves were trimmed off and bagged in case it is a fungal issue. There were only a few on each plant and completely randomly spread.
It’s currently 115° With 21% humidity and my Tikal is a little pissed about it. She’s always a little droopy until the sun starts to set.
SMH


View attachment 18722172 View attachment 18722173
Well without the damaged leaves, the plants look great.

I have to say if they are vegged too long, they will get rootbound and take up root space in the medium that should be used during flowering.

Drooping would normally be a root issue, however with the low humidity, that would be the first thing to look at.

Also I would like to say that the plants deal better with low humidity during the flowering stage than the vegging stage - especially the Afghani/Kush/big fat nug varities.

I think the thing to do is to raise the humidity somehow. Just a tub of water with some cloth in it to help evaporation, put near the base of say the Malawi, would likely be enough.
 

Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
So, it’s not a “greenhouse” in the traditional sense. It’s a shade structure and has plenty of airflow moving through it.

I do tubs of water already, as well as running a wet wall last year and without it being a sealed environment any humidity generated is very quickly sucked away by our desert air. I’ve actually never seen it raise the humidity when I monitor my sensors.
Years of growing in these conditions and the heat has never done this to my plants before which is why something fungal makes sense to me more and more. I’ve done a fungal treatment and will be following up again in a few days.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
any humidity generated is very quickly sucked away by our desert air.
So, it’s not a “greenhouse” in the traditional sense. It’s a shade structure and has plenty of airflow moving through it.

I do tubs of water already, as well as running a wet wall last year and without it being a sealed environment any humidity generated is very quickly sucked away by our desert air. I’ve actually never seen it raise the humidity when I monitor my sensors.
Years of growing in these conditions and the heat has never done this to my plants before which is why something fungal makes sense to me more and more. I’ve done a fungal treatment and will be following up again in a few days.
Well in a way you're blessed to live in a desert, where many Afghani, Lebanese etc. strains can grow naturally without much support.

I think in the long term you should be looking at Afghanistan/Syria/Iran, etc. landrace strains with thick, leathery leaves, whose fat flowers actually thrive in dry air and attract moisture.


And The Landrace Team's seeds at > Strains > Central Asia.

 
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Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
any humidity generated is very quickly sucked away by our desert air.

Well in a way you're blessed to live in a desert, where many Afghani, Lebanese etc. strains can grow naturally without much support.

I think in the long term you should be looking at Afghanistan/Syria/Iran, etc. landrace strains with thick, leathery leaves, whose fat flowers actually thrive in dry air and attract moisture.


And The Landrace Team's seeds at > Strains > Central Asia.

I have some friends that ran Afghan and pakistan dominant plants last year. They did very well but aren’t my cup of tea for a whole grow. I just end up trading a little with them after harvest.
I prefer the Mexican/central/South American sats most along with the occasional African and have had great harvests with ACE strains here outdoors.
They do really well here as our temps during flowering drop down some and we get a little not humidity in the fall.

This is the first time something weird has sprung up and was so random in which leaves it was effecting it had me stumped. We’ll see if it progresses or if it’s taken care of.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
I have some friends that ran Afghan and pakistan dominant plants last year. They did very well but aren’t my cup of tea for a whole grow. I just end up trading a little with them after harvest.
I prefer the Mexican/central/South American sats most along with the occasional African and have had great harvests with ACE strains here outdoors.
They do really well here as our temps during flowering drop down some and we get a little not humidity in the fall.

This is the first time something weird has sprung up and was so random in which leaves it was effecting it had me stumped. We’ll see if it progresses or if it’s taken care of.
I think a huge mistake was made when Afghani #1 was selected and bred into everything, from the Skunk #1 and Haze #1 onward.

However there is a much wider range of highs and experiences in the indica landrace strains. Some are even uplifting.

Also, some of the Mexican landrace strains are from the highlands, shorter and grow more like indicas. Guerrerro comes to mind, or Highland Guerrero from Cryptic Seeds.

UPDATE

- Another way to raise humidity is to have lots of non-cannabis plants around and water those too. A floor of clover, or just large leafed houseplants may raise the humidity.

- A lot of greenhouses also have a wet floor.
 
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Cactus Squatter

Well-known member
Go with a k foliar to a few lower branches and look for a response. Also a couple grams per gallon gypsum next watering.
Totally forgot to update this. I hit it with a K-Mag foliar a couple times and she stopped throwing the random weirdness so that gives me a direction with her. Apparently she’s hungrier on that end than the others around her are.
 

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