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AliceD Returns - Blimburn GG#4 Auto freebies

AliceDAnon

Active member
They're like little Buddhist monks; they give us lessons, and gently or not so gently tell us to figure it out.

'Less is often more' took a long time, even when I had it down in one or 2 areas, there were more to go.

It was humbling to have a plant teach me about stupidity, separating luck from knowledge, and 'uni-vision'.. :)

Still learning.

Good luck to you.
Gardening, and growing cannabis specifically, has turned out to be one of my biggest interests.

I haven't grown for over a year until now, but I read and studied almost every day during that time. Not many things can hold my attention like that.
 

AliceDAnon

Active member
it taught you to never fuck with autos again, with a photo you could have clipped the tops and tried rooting them

moving to a new light source and also transplanting is a lot of shock
A lot of people feel like that!

I would love to grow photos one day. Right now I do not have the time or space to veg and grow photos, and my space is also not lightproof during dark hours.
 

mexweed

Well-known member
a lot of places recommend flipping when the plant is only 8 inches tall, which if you do it like that doesn't take much longer than an auto, being light proof is important for autos too
 
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mexweed

Well-known member
there was a time when I was strongly considering lowryder #2, when researching it seemed the consensus was 24/0 veg and 20/4 when it starts budding
 

AliceDAnon

Active member
I'm noticing some yellowing on the tips of the new, healthy growth on Plant 1.

What are the possible causes of this? How can I reverse it?

Obviously the bottom is very damaged and sick but the newer nodes have been doing better lately.

GG1_D26.jpg

GG1_D26_Left.jpg

GG1_D26_Right.jpg
 

mexweed

Well-known member
how much light gets in through the intake? if it doesn't actually shine in/reflect off the mylar it's probably fine, especially if the container is at that level or above it and the plant is higher up

my tent has a veg section that is separated with a velcroed wall and it is very difficult to get it completely flush, my first grow in it went fine and it definitely had some pinhole type gaps showing

they are doing a lot better since the transplant, are you still feeding 1/4? ph 7 is a bit high
 
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AliceDAnon

Active member
how much light gets in through the intake? if it doesn't actually shine in/reflect off the mylar it's probably fine, especially if the container is at that level or above it and the plant is higher up

my tent has a veg section that is separated with a velcroed wall and it is very difficult to get it completely flush, my first grow in it went fine and it definitely had some pinhole type gaps showing

they are doing a lot better since the transplant, are you still feeding 1/4? ph 7 is a bit high
I only gave nutrients once. They are getting watered today, no nutrients. I'll shoot for 6.5PH today.
 

jwm

Well-known member
Some good info here. I soak my pellets in diffused water on a heating pad at 85F. I do soak the seeds as well, didn't know the removes the need. I also don't boil the water, just heating pad.

I've never removed the netting on the pellet before transplanting, I thought you weren't supposed to. Have I been doing that wrong?
No not wrong. Some leave the netting. The manufacturer claims they dissolve but when I’ve left the netting when planting veggies outside and airated the soil the next year, there they were. They come off / tear quite easily. If there’s a root or two on the bottom, no worries, just remove the netting gently. If you take the tip of the root when removing the netting, no problem. It’s never effected the plant for me. Make sure the pellet is moist. The peet stays together nicely.
Also, if you see the need to water the pellet, always water from the bottom, never the top.
Good luck.
Some good info here. I soak my pellets in diffused water on a heating pad at 85F. I do soak the seeds as well, didn't know the removes the need. I also don't boil the water, just heating pad.

I've never removed the netting on the pellet before transplanting, I thought you weren't supposed to. Have I been doing that wrong?
 

goingrey

Well-known member
The manufacturer claims they dissolve but when I’ve left the netting when planting veggies outside and airated the soil the next year, there they were.
I think the netting is made from coco coir. Sure it's biodegradable in the long run but dissolve into water, no way.. Would be a pretty poor material for it's intended purpose if it did.
 

bibi40

Well-known member
being light proof is important for autos too
No , totally false , auto' s can handle light leaks with no problems , or outdoor with direct light pollution with no hermie or slowest grow , aswell as handle variation of light time , you can go from 16/8 to 24/24 or from 24/24 to any other light cycle with ZERO problem ,
after hundreds auto's grown , that' s my experience ...

:tiphat:
 

jwm

Well-known member
No , totally false , auto' s can handle light leaks with no problems , or outdoor with direct light pollution with no hermie or slowest grow , aswell as handle variation of light time , you can go from 16/8 to 24/24 or from 24/24 to any other light cycle with ZERO problem ,
after hundreds auto's grown , that' s my experience ...

:tiphat:
Agree w/bib40. I don’t personally care for autos but light leaks aren’t an issue which is pretty great.
 
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negative37dBA

Well-known member
I'm noticing some yellowing on the tips of the new, healthy growth on Plant 1.

What are the possible causes of this? How can I reverse it?

Obviously the bottom is very damaged and sick but the newer nodes have been doing better lately.

View attachment 18789350
View attachment 18789351
View attachment 18789352
You will never get the toasted leaves to "recover" they will be that way till the end. The good news is the new growth is looking good. That is where you look to see how things are going now...not in the past.
Peace, negative.
 

AliceDAnon

Active member
You will never get the toasted leaves to "recover" they will be that way till the end. The good news is the new growth is looking good. That is where you look to see how things are going now...not in the past.
Peace, negative.
Do I want to remove the dead leaves or leave them on? Don't want to further stress the plants.
 

negative37dBA

Well-known member
Do I want to remove the dead leaves or leave them on? Don't want to further stress the plants.
There is some green still there in those hurt leaves. That means some nutes that the plant could cannibalize. I hurt mine that way in a early grow and just left them and it was ok....that said, dead material can attract unwanted pests. Maybe give them a trim just at the edge of the dead material and leave the green?? Just a thought. I usually remove the whole leaf if it is bad enough.
Peace, negative.
 

AliceDAnon

Active member
There is some green still there in those hurt leaves. That means some nutes that the plant could cannibalize. I hurt mine that way in a early grow and just left them and it was ok....that said, dead material can attract unwanted pests. Maybe give them a trim just at the edge of the dead material and leave the green?? Just a thought. I usually remove the whole leaf if it is bad enough.
Peace, negative.
I usually remove dead leaves as well, but I've never gotten them this early in lifecycle before.

I usually remove them on older plants but I know removing the first few sets of leaves early on could be damaging. I'll leave fhem for now and maybe trim up to the green like you suggested.
 

AliceDAnon

Active member
Deciding to un-attach my carbon filter during veg to extend it's life due to the high humidity in veg. Can I leave it in the tent or do I need to remove it from the tent completely to protect it from high humidity of veg?
 
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