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Old 04-03-2014, 02:41 AM #131
fandango
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Choice is mini split heat pump
1 ton
or 2 ton
20,000kw hps lights need 3-2ton systems
IMO
how much are you growers paying for heat pumps on line?
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:24 AM #132
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Here is a super easy way to calculate how much tonnage one needs to cool their room. Please note, the room is sealed and well insulated r-19 or better. In a NON air cooled light system (I prefer non air cooled hoods) the math is a half ton of AC per 1000 watt light fixture. This will give you ample amount of cooling power during those hot days when even insulation does not seem to help. Make sure to purchase a heating option, for example a mini-split system with heating capability.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:08 AM #133
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Your choice also depends on your climate zone, I found this calculator on the fed website that I'm using, many of us need both AC and heat functions especially if one chooses to use an out building like a barn, shed, garage, or something else thats not lived in.

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Old 05-28-2014, 02:10 AM #134
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[quote=coldcanna;6370278]Your choice also depends on your climate zone, I found this calculator on the fed website that I'm using, many of us need both AC and heat functions especially if one chooses to use an out building like a barn, shed, garage, or something else thats not lived in.

https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:29 PM #135
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Trying to find out how a thru wall AC unit works:

Is my co2 enriched inside room air just recirculated constantly over the cooling plates, and moved back into the room?

Or does the thru wall unit suck the co2 enriched warm air to the outside, and then blow air from the outside over the cooling plates, and pump that now cooled outside air back into my room, thus defeating my CO2 injection completely?

Just came back from Menards, and I am now more confused than when I left. I was told by one of the floor workers that the thru walls suck in outside air, cool it, and pump it into your room, while pulling the hot, CO2 enriched air to the outside which is a complete waste of CO2......seems to me that AC thru wall units used to have an option for cooling only the room air (recirculate setting I believe), and blowing same cooled air back into the same area?

Stood there reading instruction manuals for half an hour and am now more confused than ever! none of then mentioned a thing about recirculating the same air over and over?

If I am just repeating a question that has been asked over and over again, please just direct me to the thread where they discuss the operation of these units........HELPPPP!

Thank you in advance for your info!
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:24 AM #136
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hey thunderbunny, through the wall units work just like window units. Outside air is pulled through the condenser coils on the outside(back) part of the unit and expelled outside.

The air handler part on the inside(front) of it pull from inside and blow back inside. No mixing of outside air to the inside.

Really the only difference between a through the wall a/c and a window a/c is the wall unit is longer so the outside intake vents on the side of the unit are actually on the outside of the house. If you used a window unit the side vents would be partially inside the wall.
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:06 PM #137
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Right and I live in Fla which is hot damn near 10 months out of the year,and humidity jesus it is swampland afterall.So if I get too big a unit,I'll be cooling just fine,but humidity could stay high making it feel clamy/balmy in the room.I'd hate to have to buy and run a dehumidifier as well because I only have a 20 amp circuit to use (it controlls the entire rear of apt) and to stay within the 80% safe load I can't use more than 1840w and light,fans,with 10000 BTU unit will put me damn close.
Jung, you're going to need a dehuey for when the lights are off. No heat signal from the bulbs means the AC won't run much and thus not dehumidify. Trust me, during lights off your humidity WILL skyrocket
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Old 03-09-2015, 03:40 PM #138
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awesome thread. didn't feel the need to start a new thread as this one and your guys help should be spot on.

I have a new built room (8x12x7 sealed, no co2). currently I have 3x600hps in big kahuna hoods (fully sealed, no air leaks). both hoods have 2x6" 440cfm fans on a push/pull setup. I also have a MONSTER carbon scrubber matted to an 8" 720cfm fan. 8" 400cfm intake fan and an LG 8000btu portable ac with a custom hose that feeds into my intake fan (intake fan sucks cold air in, not forced by the ac). I also have 2x 18" oscillating fans on HIGH blowing under the hoods to remove hot pocket. current under hood temps are 77* (temp taken directly under the bulb.

im wondering if I step up to a 10000btu a/c if I can drop my temps a bit more? I grow underground so temps are mild atm. once summer hits, (imo) ill be running 5* hotter, even tho im underground. ambient underground temps are 72-74*. OR if I upgrade my hood fans to 2x8" 720cfm fans and put them on speed controllers, and leave the ac alone?
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Old 03-10-2015, 04:04 PM #139
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bump to the a/c guru's
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:26 PM #140
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any differences in lighting btu calculations for gavitas?
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