starting a micro sog

jimbob420 · Jul 12, 2008

Does anyone have any suggestions as to where one could find a cabinet or box to use for this. I know the DR uses an old kitchen cabinet but its not like those are just laying around, or are they :chin:

. Any one have any ideas and also what kind of steps would you take to light proof the cabinet? Does it need to be airtight when shut? My guess is no but just want to confirm. Thanks guys.

:rasta:

not used to this growin stuff, only the smokin----->

FreezerBoy · Jul 12, 2008

Cabs are everywhere. From Home Depot to Salvation Army to sitting on the sidewalk waiting for the trashman. Take your pick.

There are many ways to lightproof. Foam weatherstripping comes to mind but, it's better if we see your cab first.

Define airtight. There has to be air exchange. The key is negative pressure, where the pressure inside the cab is lower than the outside. This comes from air movement through the cab. Most use "passive intake." A fan is used on the exhaust while intakes are simply open. A standard starting point is intake = 2X exhaust. If you have a 1 six inch exhaust fan, you'd have 2 six inch intakes. Intakes are usually covered with panty hose, silk screen, aquarium filter pads something that allows airflow while filtering out bugs and dirt.

Guest · Jul 12, 2008

I was gonna suggest a fridge/freezer like my man here is pimpin'.

green_grow · Jul 12, 2008

yes, actually , old kitchen cabinets ARE just laying around. if you are in a big city check www.craigslist.com, people frequently give away their old kitchen cabinets when they re-model.

Connoisseur300 · Jul 12, 2008

If you’re a little handy you could build one out of plywood to fit your particular area/needs

jimbob420 · Jul 14, 2008

Ok so I am still looking for the cabinet, thinking about trying the salvation army, I got some from target but after getting them home they are missing pieces and i am not sure how well the particle board will hold screws. So with the cabinet how do you deal with the door, most kitchen cab's have a door that just kind of rests shut, do you have to modify this to make it stay shut tight? Also with the exhaust, I have a dayton 265cfm blower that I was thinking of using but I am not sure if it is too big, the cab is looking to be about 4' x 3' x 4' but those arent nailed down yet as i dont have one

. Also for those of you that have one cab that fuctions as mother chamber, clone chamber, and flowering chamber, do you think the dayton would keep up? how do you route the air in your box? and how much more heat do u think it generates being all in the same space?

Thanks for all the info fellas!

FreezerBoy · Jul 14, 2008

The most common form of lightsealing a cab door is foam weatherstripping. Either around the interior cab frame or the inside door face. Held shut, foam compresses and blocks the light, Unfortunately, this compresson means even self closing hinges may not keep it closed tightly enough. A simple clasp added to the outside will keep it shut.

While the dayton is probably bigger than you need, it certainly won't hurt the plants.

CaptainStoner · Jul 17, 2008

part of the briliance of these little micro SOGs is they can be done in ANY suitably strong, suitably sized area. Posibilities include:

Old TV cabinets. Small, kids type wardrobes, big chests of drawers, kitchen cabs. Big luggage trunks etc etc. the list goes on.

I've got an IKEA 'Billy' bookcase. One of the 7' tall ones. The bottom 3' has never been used as it is partially obscured by my cheap metal bar computer desk. I'm working on a sheet of plywood for a front cover which will be a lift off item. Going to use magnetic door catches to hold it on. Good stealth

You want your doors ideally to be as well sealed as possible, but that isn't of paramount importance if you have plenty of negative pressure. Intake at the bottom, outlet at the top.

Smoke68 · Jul 17, 2008

I helped build a couple micro boxes for friends and whatnot and I have seen all sorts of boxes used.... Rubbermaids, custom boxes, old school lockers you name it....
But one of the best I found to use was the rubbermaid standup garden tool cabinets. They are easy to seal and modify for the grow... I am about to begin building a dresser grow for myself... but that's when I get some things paid off a little...
When negative pressure is mentioned, it is usually in conjuction with carbon scrubbers or other scent destroying material. Negative pressure will not let the acrid scent leave any other oriface(should be sealed or you'll get light leaks anyway).
Hey Jim, I wouldn't mind puffin on some of that stash! And too bad this isn't a scratch and sniff moniter....

MDsmoke · Jul 17, 2008

Walmart has a 24" tall 24" wide 12" deep cabinet for $29. I have it..... I recommend the 42w from Home Depot. The ones from Walmart run pretty hot. Right now I'm vegging in it with a 14w warm white, and a 26 watt cool white. Its probably about 80-85 in there with the door cracked, and a 20-30cfm computer fan blowing on the 26 watter. There is no exhaust, just door cracked..

Fiji 1 liter water bottles are perfect. Stick with indicas until you have it tuned in, and then maybe work with sativas if you can find a workable pheno.

jimbob420 · Jul 17, 2008

Ok well I got 2 cab's from target and they are just the simple put it together yourself bookcases, I have one put together and have the screws in the sides of the cab for the light sockets which are all wired in series, Not sure if it should be wired differently and no i haven't tested it yet, I was pretty busy with other crap all day, thanks for the info on neg pressure guys, what would you use the dayton 265 for? I was thinking of using it for exahust and just using the passive intake method, does anyone see any issues with that. I need to get my drill back cause my forearms are killing me from putting that whole thing together with a screwdriver. Trust me Smoke if I had some of that right now I would be in heaven havent had the ability to make quantities of super quality bho like that in a year or so.

CaptainStoner · Jul 17, 2008

Yeah in a smallish grow i'd use the dayton as an exhaust with passive intakes. You can always add pc type fans for intakes later if the dayton isn't enough.

MoleMcHenry · Jul 17, 2008

Why not just spend the 150 or so and buy a small grow tent? I started out growing in a cab and soon found it was hard to cool, hard to lightproof, and quite a lot of work in all. If you spring for a grow tent, it will probably not cost any more than all the varied things you'd need to buy to get a cab up and running. Just my 2 cents though!

CaptainStoner · Jul 17, 2008

Grow tents are popular and becoming more so in the UK and it seems al over. They're easier if you dont like DIY, and can be set up a lot quicker. - the only advantages I can see to them.

The cons are: no stealth. They're so obviously what they are. Expense. A lot of cab growers get their boxes free or for pocket change. Quality. the tents on sale here are very variable in quality and even the best ones won't last anywhere near as long as a proper wooden box. They can also leak light, etc if they're poor quality.

You still need all the same equipment in a tent, so they aren't the cheap option they can seem.

FreezerBoy · Jul 17, 2008

jimbob420 said:
the light sockets which are all wired in series, Not sure if it should be wired differently

You may want to try parallel.

jimbob420 · Jul 17, 2008

dammit, i knew that, it was 1 am and I was wiring lights thinking, " this doesnt seem right and if I have to do this over its gonna suck" thanks again for the help though bud.

edit: Now I think I did do it right, its not like christmas lights, if u take a bulb out all the rest stay on. a little too much :joint:

FreezerBoy · Jul 17, 2008

In Series, one lamp burns out or gets removed, the entire chain goes out.

In Parallel, one lamp or socket has no effect on the others.

I don't believe safety is an issue, just convenience. I remember series wired christmas lights. Going through 50 bulbs and sockets one at a time to find the fault. Royal PITA. If you only have a few lights it's not that big a deal. Of course if you only have a few lights, it's no big deal to re-wire. Esp before anything else gets set.

jimbob420 · Jul 17, 2008

hey quick question, what gauge of lamp cord do you use? I could only find the one kind and it seems kind of small/thin for the kind of watts we are talking about using here. Its 18/2.

FreezerBoy · Jul 17, 2008

You haven't said what kind of watts your talking about.

I'm not an electrician. I used a 12 gauge extension cord that I cut the female lead off of. But I only have a single 250 CMH and I needed a ground wire.

I have several 300 watt halogen floor lamps that use 18 awg SPT-1 (common lamp cord). I'm pretty sure it comes in 16 gauge as well.

My 500 watt overhead projector uses 16 gauge SJT.

My 1500 watt space heater uses 16 gauge HPN heater cord.

smoketrichs · Jul 17, 2008

http://www.e-conolight.com/Product/EFamily.asp. I've got 150w HPS vapor tight pendant mount that should be coming tomm.

starting a micro sog

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