[dontstepongrass]

i am interested in utilizing UVB in my grow. what i am wondering is a few things. first, how much should be used to supplement my other lighting?

i went to the pet store and saw 5% UVB and 10% UVB T5 bulbs. is either better for our application? there was also different power ratings on the bulbs so that will also affect things. 12 watt and 20 watt i believe.

anyways, enough of my banter... what it comes down to is this: how much UVB is good and how much is better? is there a point of diminished return?

thanks guys!

[dontstepongrass]

no one here is knowledgeable on the subject?

[Old Yeller]

I was just askin' the same questions on another thread - were any of those T5 uvb's you saw in the 24" size?

[dontstepongrass]

i know i saw 30" and possibly a 24"... it was weird. they had fixtures and they had bulbs. none of he bulb sizes matched the length of the fixtures. it DEFINITELY said T5 tho.

[guineapig]

I have lots of information from an undisclosed location (thanks to oldtimer)....

There are proper Fluorescent UVB(and UVA) tubes available and they're much more expensive than the UVA and the standard ones(4times or more the cost). Never run them on Energy-saver or Econo running gear as that produces less lumen output with any fluro. But be very careful when using the UVB tubes. If not for the slightly glowing tube when they are on, you could hardly tell they were on in the room - they transmit entirely in the invisible wavebands, whereas UVA tubes, MH and HPS transmit low amounts of only in the UVA waveband, which is slightly visible(voilet) and nowhere near as penetrating/powerful as UVB. But expose any skin to them(UVB 40W tubes) from less than 6feet away, and it burns in minutes. Like proper sunburn and worse if closer - can easily promote skinCancer(as does the sun). Can give you cateract in no time at all, even with sunglasses, from even 10feet away and more. IF you intend on using them, make sure that you never walk into the growroom when they are on. Have a swtch for them outside the room, or just inside the door. If just inside the door, turn them on and off immediatly you close or open the door. One 40Wer can cover an area 5foot down, 5foot by 5foot across. So with every 600 or 1000Watter, you have 1 40W UVB Fluro with it, AND '120W Clear Incandescent bulb as well for 1 hour either side of lights on and off - simulating the red ambient light of the outdoors ever dusk and dawn of every day anywhere in the world'. This Incandescent wavelength is as critical as any other. The lightband is required as it aids in the 'benefical' toxification and detoxification the plant needs to complete the activation process fully. Couple all that up and timed correctly indoors with either MH or HPS, and pollenate the mum/s, and you'll be well on your way to producing the most potent buds you can indoors. More potent than any indoors buds grown without all these factors - no matter how sticky and smelly they are. They won't be as potent as the ones you grow using this ENTIRE method.

Taken from "Marijuana Optics:"

(8) It appears that the resin sphere acts as an UVB receptor and magnifying lens. The latter apparently lets it gather in a lot more photons than would otherwise be possible; because a lens also acts as a prism, the resin sphere may prevent some wavelengths from being focused where the phytochemical processes are taking place because they could interfere with the efficiency of the phytochemical process that makes THC.

The link to "MJ Optics": https://marijuanaoptics.fileave.com/

There is so much interesting information on this subject.......i would be happy to discuss any aspect of the relation of UV-B light to cannabis physiology.....

kind regards from guineapig

[messn'n'gommin']

Originally Posted by guineapig

I have lots of information from an undisclosed location (thanks to oldtimer)....

There are proper Fluorescent UVB(and UVA) tubes available and they're much more expensive than the UVA and the standard ones(4times or more the cost). Never run them on Energy-saver or Econo running gear as that produces less lumen output with any fluro. But be very careful when using the UVB tubes. If not for the slightly glowing tube when they are on, you could hardly tell they were on in the room - they transmit entirely in the invisible wavebands, whereas UVA tubes, MH and HPS transmit low amounts of only in the UVA waveband, which is slightly visible(voilet) and nowhere near as penetrating/powerful as UVB. But expose any skin to them(UVB 40W tubes) from less than 6feet away, and it burns in minutes. Like proper sunburn and worse if closer - can easily promote skinCancer(as does the sun). Can give you cateract in no time at all, even with sunglasses, from even 10feet away and more. IF you intend on using them, make sure that you never walk into the growroom when they are on. Have a swtch for them outside the room, or just inside the door. If just inside the door, turn them on and off immediatly you close or open the door. One 40Wer can cover an area 5foot down, 5foot by 5foot across. So with every 600 or 1000Watter, you have 1 40W UVB Fluro with it, AND '120W Clear Incandescent bulb as well for 1 hour either side of lights on and off - simulating the red ambient light of the outdoors ever dusk and dawn of every day anywhere in the world'. This Incandescent wavelength is as critical as any other. The lightband is required as it aids in the 'benefical' toxification and detoxification the plant needs to complete the activation process fully. Couple all that up and timed correctly indoors with either MH or HPS, and pollenate the mum/s, and you'll be well on your way to producing the most potent buds you can indoors. More potent than any indoors buds grown without all these factors - no matter how sticky and smelly they are. They won't be as potent as the ones you grow using this ENTIRE method.

Taken from "Marijuana Optics:"

(8) It appears that the resin sphere acts as an UVB receptor and magnifying lens. The latter apparently lets it gather in a lot more photons than would otherwise be possible; because a lens also acts as a prism, the resin sphere may prevent some wavelengths from being focused where the phytochemical processes are taking place because they could interfere with the efficiency of the phytochemical process that makes THC.

The link to "MJ Optics": https://marijuanaoptics.fileave.com/

There is so much interesting information on this subject.......i would be happy to discuss any aspect of the relation of UV-B light to cannabis physiology.....

kind regards from guineapig

Copied and saved. Thank you Guineapig.

Namaste, mess

[DIGITALHIPPY]

watch this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPcpt3Be28o
"thc, UVB and me"


atleast, they help make the room a more natural spectrum.
i got a 4' reptile light.(T8)my 'gro' light is only 5%, i sugest the 'desert' lights there 10%...







i believe it helps.

[dontstepongrass]

digi- how do you implement the uvb, is it on the entire time the rest of lights are on (minus times when ur in cab, as per guineapig) or is it a different time pattern within the daylight hours?

guineapig- i saw a fixture at the pet store that was 2 bulb, 1 was the uvb bulb the other was a full-spectrum bulb. would possibly be the equivalent of the incandescent bulb? or does it HAVE to be an incandescent? i'd like to keep everything fluoro because of the lower heat.

[lilo]

i have run a bunch of 10%uvb reptisun bulbs - wasted time and money. i wish i'd spent them on new hps rigs

[DIGITALHIPPY]

Originally Posted by lilo

i have run a bunch of 10%uvb reptisun bulbs - wasted time and money. i wish i'd spent them on new hps rigs

WHAT?!?!????
might not have used them right.....