[OgreSeeker]

Ok, I have to make a disclaimer like everyone else.
***I did not invent this unit. My unit is an improved, copycat version***
***Follow these directions step by step and this unit is foolproof***

In the spirit of Blaze, Krypto, SoQuick, HOG, MiaStoner, Bubbleman and all you other cats out there that have inspired me throughout the years...

I've built a multi-flow controller and will be putting together pics and information (parts list, item numbers, how to, etc) and documenting it here. This will -hopefully- be an easy to follow, easy to understand tutorial. Should be easy as 1-2-3 -IF YOU PAY ATTENTION-

I'll start by saying there is a small but significant difference in my controller VS the other DIY controllers. I use horizontal floats instead of vertical floats. This eliminates the need to use grommets,elbows, glue etc when installing the float switches. Instead all you have to do is drill the hole, feed the wire through and tighten the nut on the opposite side (just like a bulkhead fitting).
Here are a couple pics of the finished controller.
I'll start getting my stuff together and get back at ya guys with an update soon...

Please don't be intimidated by the length of this thread. If you actually read the thread then you will see that this unit is extremely easy to build. If you just scroll through the pictures without reading it's going to look overwhelming and your gonna say to yourself "holy sh*t...I ain't doing all that".

This controller cost me around $120.00 to build.

[pontiac]

I'll just leave this here ;-)

[plumpm0nkey]

sorry dude i forgot it was a tutorial

[Budweiser13]

Ogre that thing is awsome love the Multi Buckets great job....

[OgreSeeker]

Update:
June-22-2008

THANKS Pontiac!!!

OK HERE WE GO...

Good day everyone. Today I will start with a complete parts and tools list.


Parts List


- x1 SPDT FIVE Terminal Timer / Time Clock, 24Hr, 120V
(Part Number: TA4079)
One place to get it is:

CLICK HERE...this is the timer you need
-OR-
***HERE***
-OR-
***HERE***






- x4 Horizontal float switches
One place to get them:
***HERE***
(Part Number: FLT231)
-OR-
***HERE***
OR
***HERE***







- x2 125VAC/10A DPDT Plug-In Relay. You can get these from Radio Shack (Part Number: 275-217) ***Click Here***





- x1 6' or 8' three prong power cord (at least 18/3 AWG). These are common and easy to find. Hell, you could even cut an old computer power cord (that's what I did).





- x2 small grommets from the electrical section of Home Depot or Lowes. These will be used on the controller box for wiring. One grommet for your power cord and one for your float switch wires. Be sure that the grommets you get are large enough for the cord to fit through but small enough to be snugg. The size of your grommet depends on your cord circumference.





- x1 roll of 18 awg cord at least 15' to 20' (never hurts to have extra). You can get this at hardware stores, auto parts stores or wally world (mine came from wal-mart as a 15' lamp replacement cord.





- x2 15amp 120v standard single outlets. You know where to get these




- x2 Small nuts and bolts to secure the timer inside the controller box. Make sure the bolts are small enough to fit the timer bolt holes.



- x6 Spade terminals (these are to be used on the single outlets and are not necessary. You can just wrap the stripped wire around the screw and tighten but I prefer to use spade terminals). Get these at Home Depot, Lowes or auto parts store.





- x17 blue or red disconnects (get plenty of extras just in case you screw up). I used what I had on hand so mine are mix and match, red and blue. You can get these at Home Depot, Lowes or auto parts store.
TIP:Be sure that your crimp is tight and the wire doesn't slip out of the disconnect easily.





- x3 small wire nuts -OR- you can be extra cheap and use electrical tape.






- x1 Project box / enclosure. The one I used is 6"x4"x2" (radio shack part number 270-1806) but It was a tight fit. It might be a good idea to use a larger box (Radio Shack part number 270-1807)
***Smaller Box Here***
***Larger Box Here***






- x2 Pumps (one for controller and one for main reservoir). I won't be explaining construction of the complete system in this tutorial, only the controller.
Pump size depends on how large your system will be and how large your fill/drain lines are. Anything from a 300gph to 600gph will work fine.
TIP: 3/4" line will significantly speed up fill and drain times. 1/2" just doesn't cut it.





- x4 3/4"bulkhead fittings (Worms Way Part Number BBH202). If you plan on using 1/2" line the go with Worms Way part number BBH201. The number of bulkheads needed depends upon the size of your system. More planter buckets mean more holes/bulkheads need to be added to the controller so as to run more lines.
TIP: 3/4" line will significantly speed up fill and drain times. 1/2" just doesn't cut it.
***3/4" Bulkheads Here***
***1/2" Bulkheads Here***





- x2 90° barbs inserts. These will be popped into the the pump lines to prevent siphoning. One gets popped into the pump line in the controller and one gets popped into the other pump line in the reservoir. (pics coming soon of actual install)




- x1 Bucket. A 5 gallon bucket is typically used in this application (mine is blue).
Tip: Controller bucket should be a little larger than your planter buckets. Again, I won't be explaining construction of the complete system in this tutorial, only the controller.














Tool List

- Wire crimping pliers (any hardware store has these for $5 to $15)







- 5/8" spade bit (FOR DRILLING FLOAT SWITCH HOLES)






- 1 3/8" Hole saw. (FOR DRILLING RECEPTICLE AND BULKHEAD HOLES)





- 2 1/2" Hole Saw (FOR DRILLING TIMER HOLE)





- Razor Blade knife and/or knife (DO YOU REALLY NEED A PICTURE??)



- Phillips and straight head screwdriver (DO YOU REALLY NEED A PICTURE??)



I think that about does it for the parts and tools list. I will edit this section later if I forgot anything.
Until next time friends...

[OgreSeeker]

plumpm0nkey,
I'm a big fan of DWC. The reason I went with this system over DWC is because I didn't have the extra money for lids/net pots, air pumps and chiller. I already had just about everything I needed to make the multi-flow except the controller (which cost me around $100.00 to build).
I will be adding details about my particular system (amount of buckets, size of buckets) as the tutorial moves forward. I will be running between 40 and 70 buckets at any given time so I'll probably build two controllers and split the system in two.
Only thing I need to purchase now is a shit load of hydroton.



Budweiser13,
Thanks man...it's coming along!

[plumpm0nkey]

hey dude this should help what you already know
https://www.aquahub.com/store/diygbuildebb.html

damn 40 buckets? that is so much high maintnance. exciting!

[OgreSeeker]

I looked into that system and found that they've yet to figure out a way to incorporate one timer. They use two timers to control that unit.
My total cost was about the same as the aquahub unit.

[plumpm0nkey]

wtf they have 2 timers huh, yeah i know that you know what your doin. in the begining when your babies dont have enough roots to dangle down to the water level i used lantern wicks to draw up the water in the hydrotron. what you got goin on strain wise?

[OgreSeeker]

Update:
June-24-2008

STEP#1 - PREPARE CONTROLLER BUCKET BY DRILLING HOLES

We'll start by measuring and drilling our fill and drain holes in the bottom side of the controller bucket. These holes are where you will be installing the bulkheads for your fill / drain lines that run to your buckets.
How many holes you drill will depend upon the size of system your building and how many lines you'll need.
Start by measuring at least 1 1/4" up from the bottom of your bucket. Mark a spot for hole#1.




Measure 2 1/2" over from hole #1 and mark your spot for hole #2. Repeat this process if you need more fill / drain lines (I will be using 3 holes in my setup).
Again, the number of lines / holes needed depends on how many buckets you want to run (more buckets = more lines needed).



Using your 1 3/8" hole saw, drill out your fill/drain holes. Once you've cut your
holes you can install the bulkheads. Just slide the bulkhead through the bucket from the inside and tighten the plastic nut on the outside like so...










Next we will be measuring and drilling our holes for the lower float switches. Position your bucket in front of you so the bottom holes you just drilled are facing out to your left. The side of the bucket that is now facing you is where your float switches will be located.
I'll throw in this pic for reference. This should give you a better understanding of where the float switches should be in relation to the fill/drain holes.





Measure 3" from the bottom of your bucket. Mark your hole. This hole will be for your "Low Level Low" or "LLL" float switch.




Now measure 2 1/2" over and 1/2" up from the LLL hole. Mark your hole. This hole will be for your "Low Level High" or "LLH" float switch.









Now lets talk a little about the upper float switches. The height at which the upper floats are installed is determined by how tall your
planter buckets are. You'll need to measure the height of your holding bucket (the bucket that your hydroton filled bucket slides in to). This is what I use...



The upper floats will be installed in the controller so that the "High Level High" or "HLH" float is 3/4" lower than the height of your planter holding bucket.
For example, the buckets I use in my system are exactly 12" tall...



so my "HLH" hole should be drilled about 11 1/4" high on the controller bucket. Get it?





TIP: If you know that your grow area is not level in some areas, you may want to position the "HLH" float even lower in the controller (maybe 1" lower rather than 3/4").

Once you have the "HLH" hole marked, measure 2 1/2" over and 1/2" down from the "HLH" hole.



Mark your hole. This is where your "High Level Low" or "HLL" float switch will be installed.

Now that all of your float switch holes are marked, use the 5/8" drill bit to drill your holes.




Feed your float switch wires through the holes and tighten the nut on the outside.





VIOLA...leak free and you didn't have to use grommets and elbow & all that shit.

Look closely at this picture. Your floats should be in this position after installation.



You may have noticed that I didn't drill any holes for the pump lines. That's because it's easier to lay the pump suction side down, add an elbow and come straight out the top of the bucket rather than drilling holes and installing grommets. You remember what your momma told ya....KISS!

It's time to take a break. Go burn one (I'll be joining ya) and when we get back we'll do a lil prep work on the 120v outlets and project box...