...after soil, weather and strain selection, is the number 1 reason for outdoor crop loss. In most instances, we have led the rippers, the law, the ravenous deer or the occassional hiker right up to our wonderful plants.

A small discrete path started in May will look like someone drove a truck through the area by the end of september. I have spent years trying to find ways to avoid path making and its a very difficult endeavor. Going different routes only exacerbates the problem. Instead of 1 truck, it looks like a fleet drove through the area. Choppers full of law watch for these paths from above.

All creatures, including humans, will take the path of least resistance and if you make a path, all will want to follow. Why bust through the brush when someone has already created this wonderful path? If rippers have any clue as to the area you grow in, alls they have to do is show up and start following paths in the area. They'll hit the right one sooner or later.

I visit my plants 1 x every 10 days or so when they are small and every 3 weeks or so after they've become established. I always go after storms as a storm can lean the plant or cover it with other weeds and not making that adjustment can be significant come harvest time. But even with limited trips, the paths still exists.

1. Even though I cant really avoid the path, I can deter people or deer from taking it. I always try and block any path with small scrub trees ive cut and then make an opening under them that requires one to crawl if one intends to continue on the path. I then plant one of the native thorny vines we have here next to it and by July, the thing is entangled in a mesh of thorny vines that are almost inpenetrable. From that blocked point, I establish a second easy course path away from the direction of the plants. The intruder will instinctively prefer the easy path to the thorn covered crawl.

In thorn or blackberry groves, I will tie the tops of the thorny canes together during the winter, creating a tunnel below. In the summer, looking over the top of the vegetation doesn't reveal the access tunnel underneath the thorns and vines. Watch out for snakebites to the face when crawling especially in the dark if snakes live in your area.

2. For those like me that are not allergic to poison Ivy, this plant can be used as a deterent for humans. I have 4 cuttings of PI in my grow room as we speak, ready to be transplanted to around one of my grows. Even if the rippers find it, they are easily identified as the swollen
and welted bastards that live down the road.

Stinging nettles are easily spread if they are native to your area. Anyone with knowlege of outdoors will take a wide path around these plants and those who are unfamilar will become familar very quickly upon contact. You can wear long sleeves.

3. Ive had some luck with distractions. I have a grow area that when you follow the approach path, just as you are getting close, I have nailed 5 deer skulls and antlers to the tree in the opposite direction of the plants.. ( you can find these easily) There is a natural tendency when getting close to notice the unusual site and move toward it, and away from the plants. I then make a path from that point away from the plants because of the natural tendency to take the path of least resistence.

Psychology, blocking and crawling, vines and thorns, poisonous plants and distractions have been some attempts Ive made.

Im hoping someone will have others

Whats your strategy for avoiding this critical problem?

[tokinjoe]

Again another practical and useful post SB. Anyone that leaves a path to their plant or plants is definitely asking for them to get ripped and is a common mistake. I once read a post here a few years ago and the guy was saying he knew someone that used to ride in a chopper that looked for MJ. He stated that from the air they looked for the "lollipop signature". Path to the plant is the stick, the path around the plant is the candy part. The best way to avoid this is to take a different route to your plants every time if possible. Another idea I've used is to use a high nitrogen fert such as 34-0-0 on your path. This works very well in the bottom area I've mentioned as there is a lot of lush growth and the nitrogen promotes a LOT of growth on what otherwise may be a "path". Any crimped or downtrodden greenery grows back quickly providing there is ample rain to melt or dissolve the ferts. This also works extremely well if using 20 gallon pots or other large containers. I put them into brushy areas and fert around them and it really encourages weed growth around the pot and makes the camo job a LOT easier. I trim them as necessary so they don't outgrow the MJ and shade it. Peace and good luck.

[Hindu Killer]

Good read SB!

[Ulysses]

All go info... The only grow I had found was due to the dreaded PATH. Fortunately, there were only seeded lower branches left... But, that spot was to be never used again...

I get cheap Osmocote and scatter it widely in the area. I transplant native weeds to the area. I plant garlic on the path. I divert the growth pattern of thorn bushes with stakes and branches. I fertilize the thorn bushes with Rosetone and it grows a wall of thorns like hypodermic needles staying green long enough for a sativa grow. I knock off the thorns to the entrance with a stick- leaving the leaves... I know where to grab 'the door'.

Also, I use chunky perlite, I love the stuff, swear by it and at it, because it glows brite white. Don't leave a trail of perlite or vermiculite to the grow. Mix the perlite with EWC first to get the chunks dark and dirty... Get the cheapest damn mulch they got- like last years leftovers- and mulch well and wide...

Good Growing

[two heads]

Well put silverback. The only rip we ever suffered was the result of poor path protection.

I agree that taking a different route each time only creates more paths. The best approach is to take the same route but make it difficult to follow. We grow in swamps and hiding the entry/exit is the most important thing to consider. We enter in a poison ivy patch at two sites and try to use fallen logs and deep water to hide our path. Fallen logs and 'stepping stones' work well in the bush as well. We also drop dead trees across our 'path' to obscure it and deter followers.

Rippers are, by definition, lazy (too lazy to grow their own), so anything that makes their task difficult helps deter them. I love your idea of distractions - shiny baubles to distract the simple-minded!

[BACKCOUNTRY]

I'd say the #1 reason for crop loss is actually telling people who don't need to know about your plot.,......

[trichburner]

Well my #1 loss has always been friggin' animals chewing on my plants but to stay on topic , pay close attention to how you walk to minimize the trail in the first place .

walk slow , take long steps placing one foot inline with the other to create as narrow a path as possible, use your hands and feet to push vegetation aside (instead of just stepping on it and pushing it down) and pull that vegetation back as you pass .

[little j]

this is a good thread. one thing i really like is the distraction method sb mentioned. if you grow in a forest that sees hikers throughout the year, plant on curves in the path. inside the curve. as a person is walking down the path their eyes are usually forward. dahhh. yes as they approach they are facing your plant but still a distance away. as they approach, they, and their eyes turn away to follow the path. i grow with this in mind. this works even better on upward slopes. people look downward when climbing an incline. i grow most my plants in obvious locations. my biggest tree was grown less than 20 yds from a major hiking path at the beginning of the trail. yes i had tall brush as back cover and yes i only have one plant per spot. by planting in "higher"traffic areas the deer dont go there. watering was my biggest concern. i needed a buddy to watch the trail so i could go in and water. many times i have had to pull out my roll of tp to pretend a crap had just occurred and that also makes people look away real fast.ha ha. of course i grow in hard to reach places also but deer get to be a problem then.
one more spot i have used. wide open fields that have a rock pile with some brush growing. even just 1 tall tree/bush only 4 to 5 foot tall is a normal thing to see and doesn't get a 2nd glance. night watering for them. get dropped off on the road, water and back to the road for pickup by friend. works great. this is the hide in plain site method. thanks. little j

[acidfire]

My plots are surrounded by a field of stinging nettles, and then a wall of devils clubs.
Even the leaves on this thing are evil!


Apparently this plants spreads underground or sprouts from seeds that have been eaten and digested by animals making it difficult to scatter these plants around.

[Trancerdancer]

You're lucky that you aren't allergic to poison oak/ivy. I most definitely am... but I plant in it anyways. The path through the PO is hard to see, and thick on both sides. I would be avoiding that area like the plague if I didn't have a damn good reason to be in there.

My path minimizing method is just about the opposite of trichburners... take big wide steps so there is no line that you are traveling in, only individual steps. Make sure to step over the grass/ plants rather than dragging your feet through them. This looks a bit awkward, and is sort of difficult for long trips... so I just do it in the most crucial areas.

Great thread Sliverback. Keep up the good work!