[humble1]

You could throw in a little cal/mag to supplement, as there usually is a small bit of Nitrogen in any of the cal/mag products
Better as a slight preventative than as a treatment after symptoms appear.
Peace, Love & Coco

[treeborion]

i think if you look at MJ bloom and some of the canna seperates you could find a nice medium happy ground not using the grow fert, you will need to add mg + n imo, but for the sake of £10(in the UK) having some grow nutes is advisable m8, they green the plants up quicker and gives you a lot more green growth, just give them one or two feeds with it, and back in the cupboard for next time, that way it will last you longer, the thing is though m8, if your using grow OR bloom the simple fact of the matter is they cost the same, and you will run out of both pretty quickly if your growing a few plant, so just get both, i reccommend MJ grow and bloom base nutes (what i mean is your using grow or bloom and in cost, they are the same, so you wont actually save anything not using both, you will only save money if you dont use ANY, if u see)

its your call obviously but also dont think canna havent done research lol, they know what they are doing and see very good results with canna coco nutes, they very good tbh

good luck

[Kenny Lingus]

SensiCal addition is a very good option as it has 2-0-0 (and a bunch of calcium and magnesium and the rest of trace elements...)

Will the new MJ Grow formulas stay good for more than 6-12months?
I'm considering trying it once more, or just try a round of Plagron when my 5litre Canna's are gone...


-I know I have been unlucky with my batch of MJ, and maybe other AN products as they didn't seem to fit to well for my drip system. A lot of the products have molded, clumped up, precipitated or just became full of coagulated slime. (They are probably about 2years from manufacture now, but most went bad only in the beginning of second bloom cycle (maybe 3months after I got them.) At least Canna's nutes stay good for even 3years after the Best Before Date, and bio/enzyme products stay good for 1-2years after BB date... -Hell, my Canna Coco barrels are from before it became necessary with date marking on nutrients and are probably about 4-5years old now and still spot on according to the calculator programs suggestions.)

My one-on-one test, hand watering once a day in 3liter coir, using Canna Coco full vs AN MJ Bloom 2+ did give about 8-10% increased yield for AN plant.
Canna had 45gr and AN about 50 I think... (Don't quite remember and don't bother go checking either. Point is the AN stuff was good, but it took a bit of work and wasn't so easy to keep stable when pre-mixed.)

Let us see how it works out with only the MJ Bloom mate. (You could even use a teaspoon of organic un-sulphured blackstrap molasses per 15-20 litre of nutrient/water to supply extra carbo and cal-mag...)

[DIGITALHIPPY]

i find my nutes go bad if i take a measuring syringe/plunger "from one nute bottle-to the res- to the next nute bottle...."

but if you bring a cup of tap-yes tap- water(kills the nutes organic parts with chlorine) and rinse it between bottles, yes a hastle, then nutes stop going bad. remember they feed off eachother thats why there in dif bottles.
(example) a drop of carb-load in a bottle of organic-b will cook into a yeast farm overnight because the cars are there food.(example) also store the bottle in a dark closet below 75 and they can last along time. my CBB is 2 years old and just as good as when i bought it.

COCO- i thought the coco 'ate' the P early but released it later.... isnt the p rating lower on the MJ bloom then a sensi 2-part? or connie? not a coco farmer..

[treeborion]

coco is a bit of a mystery, i haven't seen any defiecinies using sensi or MJ in coco, i have seen other have lack of mg in coco and have to supplement,

i think the basic difference between coco nutes and normal hydro nutes is the way the ferts are made, i think coco nutes have more readily available salts as coco is good at letting water drain so to make full use of that, they give readily available salt so they eat more in the given time, i think

if thats wrong someone jump in and say please, its defo something to do with the salts and how readily available the fert are to the plant in the medium

DH, atami bio-biz b'cuzz are all different companies, i dont understand what u were trying to say u used as a mollasses taste additive???

i got the sweetleaf but unless they taste supremely bta i wont be gettin it again im pretty sure thats why my res fluctuates also,

im sure i've seen more crystal now i'm using b-52 carboload and sweetleaf on top of my usual A+B Budblood Bigbud and overdrive regime, but not sure as to end result yet,

im seeing a light sheen on top of my res and still froths up when mixed rigourosly but then froth dissapates, i do mix couple of times a day, no problem

any help on the coco info wud be appreciated

edit - apologies for thread hopping q for DH related to floaters thread also

[aeric]

I use Botanicare Sweet now to make up what's missing in MJ bloom, and have a couple of cycles so not like it's untested. Calmag was just a little off for some reason, and too easy to overdose. Mid flo dose would be roughly 10ml AB and 2ml sweet.

Treeborion: This is where the reccy for molasses comes in; similar effects, or go with whatever AN thing is the same. I don't bother to question why things work the way they work any more with coir LOOOL, just some things do and some don't. Carboload coupled with too much aeration in res gave me floaters and smelled a little, but thats bacteria for you, no big deal.

[DIGITALHIPPY]

Originally Posted by treeborion

coco is a bit of a mystery, i haven't seen any defiecinies using sensi or MJ in coco, i have seen other have lack of mg in coco and have to supplement,

i think the basic difference between coco nutes and normal hydro nutes is the way the ferts are made, i think coco nutes have more readily available salts as coco is good at letting water drain so to make full use of that, they give readily available salt so they eat more in the given time, i think

if thats wrong someone jump in and say please, its defo something to do with the salts and how readily available the fert are to the plant in the medium

DH, atami bio-biz b'cuzz are all different companies, i dont understand what u were trying to say u used as a mollasses taste additive???

i got the sweetleaf but unless they taste supremely bta i wont be gettin it again im pretty sure thats why my res fluctuates also,

im sure i've seen more crystal now i'm using b-52 carboload and sweetleaf on top of my usual A+B Budblood Bigbud and overdrive regime, but not sure as to end result yet,

im seeing a light sheen on top of my res and still froths up when mixed rigourosly but then froth dissapates, i do mix couple of times a day, no problem

any help on the coco info wud be appreciated

edit - apologies for thread hopping q for DH related to floaters thread also

a bit of froth is ok, especialy if its above your airsone...
temps below 78...(res)
make sure light isnt getting in it.
aslong as you dont have the "potato" smell (pythium)
or a rotten egg smell, everytrhing is ok with the froth.
try adding more fulvic &/or humic acid if you have any.

i dont use 'taste enhancers' anymore, there worthless. free carbs helps just as much if not more. sweet and sweetleaf is simple sugars. nothing else.

[Kenny Lingus]

Originally Posted by DIGITALHIPPY

i find my nutes go bad if i take a measuring syringe/plunger "from one nute bottle-to the res- to the next nute bottle...."

but if you bring a cup of tap-yes tap- water(kills the nutes organic parts with chlorine) and rinse it between bottles, yes a hastle, then nutes stop going bad. remember they feed off eachother thats why there in dif bottles.
(example) a drop of carb-load in a bottle of organic-b will cook into a yeast farm overnight because the cars are there food.(example) also store the bottle in a dark closet below 75 and they can last along time. my CBB is 2 years old and just as good as when i bought it.

COCO- i thought the coco 'ate' the P early but released it later.... isnt the p rating lower on the MJ bloom then a sensi 2-part? or connie? not a coco farmer..

That's a good idea too rinse in clean tap-water... I actually think a lot of the benefit from AN program may be from the tedious accuracy and attention one must show to make run smoothest.

i find a need to have my res stable for 2weeks if I want to and not needing to wash it down to bad between cycles. (I wan''t my coco system running to waste w/o maintenance for a year (at least 3 runs as my slabs last so long) and so Far I found the 2+ show not suited.)

[treeborion]

the res smells like eggs a bit, i have changed it, and it still smells like that, there is 2 weeks left i will be flushing next week so i wont be doin a whole res change again as i have run out of overdrive so whats in there is on re-circ top ups only,

i dont think i have a potato smell, the res smells slightly like organic nute thats the slight eggy smell, and also smells like the B-52 also, its not overpowering, you have to stir it up and put your head in to smell that though, it doesn't pong or anything in fact it smells fairly healthy to me, but this is my 1st attempt at hydro

i used cannazym until week 5 so i dont think i will have pythium, how else can you tell if you have it, do the plants show symptoms because they are all very healthy and doing really well,

i'm defo dropping sweetleaf, i haven't decided whether i will continue with carboload yet as they do look very healthy, depending on final dry weight i may try something else other than the monkey juice but if i get a good dry yield nice solid buds then i will be happy and stick as i see massive plants get choppped at m8's but then they are just full of air and dry to nothing, i like my buds solid and to keep as much weight as possible which is what happened last time, cheers for the help guys

[GET MO]

Monkey juice sounds aright, anyone else have experience with this nutrient line?