Hey everyone.

As much as I love growing MJ, I also love my flower gardening just as much and my yard looks like b usch gardens. Some of the techniques used by flower gardeners apply very well to MJ, so I thought I would share one of the most beneficial that I have come across. Discovering this changed my entire approach to planting.

HORIZONTAL PLANTING TECHNIQUE.

This planting method wil increase the yield of many MJ strains by 3 times or more. A smaller plant that produces 4 oz, can produce 12 or more using this method;

Method:'

Start seedlings 30-45 days before transplant. Begin topping the plants as soon as possible and remove all branches from one side of the plant. Do not allow any branches to grow on one side of the plant.

Once the plants are 12- 16 " with branches growing on one side youre ready to plant.

Now, we're at the planting hole. Remove all of the skin from the side of the main stem which had the branches removed and dust the entire length of the main stem with rooting powder. Intead of inserting the plant in a vertical position, dig more of a ditch and lay the entire plant sideways in the ditch with the main rootball a little deeper than the stem/ at an angle. Cover the main roots and stem well and the main stem should have 1/2-1" of dirt on it. Make sure that all of the branches are sticking up through the soil.

Several weeks later, all of the branches sticking through the soil will become quasi- individual plants and actually appear as such. By the end of summer, it appears there are 5-6 plants planted in a 3' hole. Some side branch pruning early on will improve air flow around the plants and allow for good growth.

Yeild is multiplied in equivallent/ significant proportions.

My sensi stars often produce a pound or more with this method. It is my regular method and if you try it, you'll never plant another seedling upright in the hole.

HUH, I think ill give that a whirl.. Makes sense...

When were you planting in the ground outside?

Hi soilgro,

In my area, 38 deg. , I can usually plant by the end of april. I try to have my seedling started and through the soil by 3/22.

Basically, your'e rooting the whole stem length and then individual branches become individualistic. This is a very common practice with shrubs and other landscaping plants.

Something I should have added to the above description is that your original planting hole needs to be dug a bit bigger. This increases normal root size from 2x2 to 3x3. It also increases nutrient requirements dramatically and overfeeding becomes the norm.


With this method, the more branches you have at planting, the more growth you will have at the end and the taller the plant at planting time, the further apart individual plants/branches will be. I seperate mine during the growing season by tieing one branch one way and then the next branch another way.

This works.

im in the same longitude as you,

might have to try that with the OriginalThai/Haze x Skunk#1 and see what happens.

[Jon]

There was a thread last year where a guy had bushes much like described but he didn't tell anyone how he did it. Or if he did, it wasn't this detailed. I hope to give this a whirl!

[Hindu Killer]

Bigger root mass = bigger plants. Same thing sort of..as haveing a 18 inch plant and pinching all the leaves of except the top. Then planting 12 inches of the stalk in the hole.

[Dignan]

That there's a tomater method!

Love it. Do you have any pics of your mj plants grown in this fashion?

Peace-

Dig

[fisher15]

Nice! I just dug a 4' x 4' x 4' hole, it wasn't easy with our clay ground. Maybe I'll try this method, sounds great. Thanks

[phrank]

Damn silverback, another killer post!

phrank

Thanx phrank, good to see ya
Hi everyone.
Yes Hindu Killer, it is almost the same and Ive tried that. I discovered that the plants didn't adjust as well and the delay seen in growth while rooting occured was more pronounced.

Plants do get large this way, even smaller stature plants
I had a KC 33 plant, which gets very big and is vigoruous to start with, spread over 13 feet X 9'. I harvested over 4 lbs from it.

Ive used this practice so much I have a formula for yeild. Its simple. Each branch that is exposed will produce 50-70% of what the original plant would have produced. For example, if a plant normally produced 6 oz grown untopped or minimal topping, then each branchs sticking up from your rooted stem will produce around 4 oz. You can usually get at least 4 branches sticking up, so the total yeild from this plant would be 16 oz, where it would have originally yeilded 6. Its a better way to plant. No negative effects to the plant.

The original rootball of the plant keeps it growing until the entire stem roots. Once that happens you will know it as behavior of the branches becomes different - you cant miss it. I have never lost a plant doing this. Never. Ive never had one that didn't root, although the pace of rooting matches the cloning capacity of any given strain. Most strains clone easily, but ocassionally you run into strains that doesnt and that lack of acceptance is seen with this as well.