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Old 03-12-2008, 04:02 PM #21
Scay Beez
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There are others trying the same thing over in this thread:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503&page=5

Best of luck. For others tuning in SM90 and Imidacloprid aren't organic. Sm90 does contain corriander and clove oil but it also has Triethanolamine.


- sbz
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:12 PM #22
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Originally Posted by Suby
I have been now battling thrips, the Western Flower thrip is a develish little fucker to boot.

I want tot point something about neem oil, it`s been brought to my attention by a friend.
When using neem one should avoid doing a soil drench with it too often, oil clogs the fine root hairs in the soil and blocks the roots from working efficiently, he recommended sticking to foliars if possible.
I have noticed a little less plumpness from my buds after a few soil drenches of neem so that`s something to consider.

Suby

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=61807

suby...take a look at the thrips control 101...spinosad is THE answer for thripes.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:18 PM #23
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Fungus gnats...

Stop overwatering!! Let the top few inches dry out a bit..then apply a layer of diatomaceous earth on top of the soil. There is a particular brand of DE that I have found works especially well. It is Diatect V. It's blend of natural pyrethrins (0.5%) and diatomaceous earth, Diatect V provides quick control of a long list of insect pests, including fungus gnats.

https://www.planetnatural.com/site/di...t-control.html

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Old 03-12-2008, 04:25 PM #24
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The trick with mites is to not let them get a foothold in your garden. If they do, you need to quarantine the infestation and wait it out. Let the current crop run its course, then start over.

Not start completely over, but it is much easier to treat young small plants than it is to treat large maturing plants.

When your current infested crop is finished. Clean, clean, clean...then start to work on cleaning your next batch of clones to go in.

The best way I have found to rid mites from young tender plantlets is as follows...

1. rinse the plants under running water. The the majority of the mites aren't strong enough to hold onto the plant during the rinse. Some eggs and mites will hold on, so you need to follow up with a high quality cold pressed neem like dyna-gro neem or einstein oil. Do this every day for up to a week. The rinse will wash away any bugs/eggs and the previous days neem treatment. Maybe throw in a pyrethrin based spray somewhere in there. If you are vigilant then you should have no problems getting rid of the mites.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:32 PM #25
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beneficial insects aren't always a good solution.

Did you know that some beneficials can't reproduce in 12/12? Did you know that some beneficials only work under certain humidity or temperatures? Ask these questions before you commit to using beneficial insects.

Natures' Control is a good authority on beneficial insects. YOu can call them at 541.245.6033 or at https://www.naturescontrol.com/
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:36 PM #26
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Nature's Control on Prevention

Quote:
Some of the worst bug experiences we've seen might have been minimized or even eliminated by a few simple preventative actions that gardeners can do: Start out with clean plants from known sources, or start with seeds or cuttings and grow them up free of pests. Use clean potting soil, or other media. Filter intakes through insect screens. Keep your plants healthy, because healthy plants are more resistant to insect problems than unhealthy plants. Also, get in the practice of routine inspection using at least a 16x magnifier so that you can catch the beginnings of a pest outbreak before huge populations of the pest develop. These kind of preventative measures will go along way towards keeping insects at bay.

Last edited by sunnyside; 03-12-2008 at 04:40 PM..
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:39 PM #27
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Nature's Control on Humidity

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Humidity plays a critical role in insect survival. Pests insects eat a diluted food consisting of plant juices, and the only way pests can eat alot is to evaporate that excess moisture about as fast as they take it in. When air humidity is too low, the bugs can evaporate or sweat moisture faster, and eat faster. On the other hand, predator insects are eating a concentrated 'meaty' diet, so they prefer higher humidity levels to help maintain their critical body moisture. That's why raising humidity levels often helps predator insects thrive, while at the same time slows down pest insect growth.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:44 PM #28
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https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=66865

^^^ a wonderful thread on spidermite control by flowerman.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:46 PM #29
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Caveat Emptor! - Don't buy ladybirds!

Ladybirds, like pigeons, have a homing signal. If I were to collect my ladybirds and sell them to someone across town, they would come back here...
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:03 PM #30
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I have not tried spinosad but I have read Kokua's sticky and had a good read.
I am using another product called safe, it's 100% safe for edibles, smokeables, etc. no gloves, no mask, I can keep ventilation on.
It's applied full strength twice at 5 day intervals, my hydro friend guranteed me it would work or he would give me a gallon of LK, I like a man thatr puts his money where his mouth is , I'm not sure it's organic but this is a coco grow I'm doing so it's of little consequence.

I'm not sure of the brand, it's from Australia, it's actually a leaf cleaner that's plant safe but it kills bug dead, I'll get back to yall one I have been without a visible one for at least 1 month lol.

S



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