Really good info Gunnaknow. I didn't know much about its make up but i do know it works really well. Thanx

Yeah, fungus.

[hamstring]

Silverback

Thanks for the info. That brings up a question in my mind anyways. Could you use this green cure to help facilitate mold-less drying in the outdoors. There have been many discussions on this forum about trying to dry outdoors and the mold issues that come with it.

Some of the obvious questions that arise are taste issues you discussed. You said it takes around 3-4 days to get rid of the salty taste. Even so it’s worth mentioning because drying outside has generated many a discussion here.

Thanks again for the interesting topic.

hamstring, Im pretty sure it would prevent mould in that instance and Ill tell you why. I use it more as a deterent than a cure. Its effects last for a couple of weeks depending on rain and dew. I spray my plants a couple of weeks before they are to finish and when the buds start to thicken and they just dont get mould. This year I intend to grow cali indica from sensi. It couldn't be grown in my climate without moulding, but Ill be able to grow it without problem using this product.

I cant see any reason why that protection wouldnt last a few more days or so on the plant during the curing process, especially since it would no longer be subjected so directly to the elements while curing.. Spray the plants a week before chop and it should work fine.

good topic silverback ,, one i know most outdoor growers should read ..
i have a hell of a mould problem ,, mainly due to heavy rains and caterpiller attack ..
ive found keeping the area clean of weeds , and as much air flow as i can helps .. but certainly does not completely stop the dreaded mould ..
a product such as u speak would help me , i think i would just have to target problem areas rather than try to spray the whole crop ..
im gonna look around during the week for some ,, i know the rain is nearly here and can practically smell the mould forming ,, hehe ...

Hey Wallyduck and others, Thanx for the conversation.

Theres no reason for mould to be a "hell of a problem" for any grower from my perspective and thats really why I started this thread. I can walk up to my plant, spend 20 seconds squirting it with a small hand mister and walk away knowing that i dont have to spend one second worrying about mould. To see these reports where people have risked their freedom and hours of labor and all kinds of money just to watch the plant be unnecessarily destroyed is just heartwrenching.

It's my belief that growers either don't believe these products work or that they think they're spraying some kind of dangerous chemical on their pot. Both of those beliefs are inaccurate.

With greencure, if you see a spot mould on a plant, spray it and the mouldy area sloughs off the plant. The mould doesnt return nor does it spread to other areas of the plant for as long as dew or rain doesnt completely remove the green cure. Usually about 10-14 days.

Its real value is in prevention. When i grow a dense heavy strain, I will spray it just before the buds become so thick that they conceal the inner nodes. This is usaully around the 3rd or 4th week of flower. Then again about 2 weeks from harvest.

My humidity in sept averages 65% and heavy soaking dew lays on plants until noon. Using the method above, I know I can grow any strain that will finish for me and not loose one bud to mould.

Want to grow LUI in northern england, no problem. Just follow the directions. Of course, this practice is limited to the 1/2 dozen plants of that special strain that you've wanted to always grow but new you couldn't. You can.

[phrank]

This is the most interesting thing I've read on the canna boards in a long time! I look forward to your future posts!

phrank

Thanks for that Silverback, I'll second what Phrank just said. Very interesting indeed.
Ever heard of Amistar?
"A few years ago there was a huge breakthrough in modern agriculture. Scientists noticed & wondered how it was that in pine forests the pine cone took so long to break down, all the dead wood round it would rot away but the pine cones stayed there for years. They found out that it was due to a small brown mushroom, aptly named the pine cone fungus. What happens is this, the myceleum of this mushroom colonise the pine cone & keep it for them selves by eating any other fungus. Scientists came up with a way of isolating the active ingredient & made a fungicde with it. These are now called Strobilurin class of fungicides. They were initially trialled in cereal crops. What they found was astounding. The wheat crops were staying greener for a lot longer, before dying back, delaying harvest for 2 to 3 weeks in some cases. The longer a wheat crop stays green, the heavier the yield, the flag leaves continue to feed & fatten the grain. ARE YOU GETTING MY DRIFT NOW. This product might enable us northern hemi types to keep them going till into november!

Now for the really good news. It has an excellent safety record. It was originally used on cereals , now it has been approved for vegetables, cougettes, lettuce, ornamentals, strawberries, grapes, (botrytis is a huge problem with all these crops) and wait for it TOBBACCO! The harvest interlude has just been lowered to just 7 days.
You do not need to spray it on those precious buds, it can be sprayed just before flowering.
It is a antibiotic, prophylactic chemical it will not cure mould but take my word for it, it will prevent it. Maybe the answer we have all been waiting for lies in this little brown mushroom.
Have I used it. No, but I prefer to grow organically. I may run some trials next year. For anyone growing for seed, I wouldnt waste any time, I would be using it.
its marketed in europe & UK by Syngenta, & its called Amistar. Google it. Strobulin / strobilurin fungicides. Also available in the US.
Dont ask me to get it for you, you need to know a sympathetic farmer. Agrichemical supplies will stock it. Tell them you need it for roses, bowling greens, tennis courts, veg , etc. I think the smallest ammount they will sell is 1 litre, eneogh for 1 hectare. I cannot make any safety reccomendations for anything I mentioned here".
Hope you dont mind me pasting that from a previous thread.
Thanks.

[gunnaknow]

Interesting Farmaz but I wouldn't want to use modern, synthetic chemicals like strobilurin fungicides. The original strobilurin may be natural but the commercially available strobilurin fungicides aren't, they're synthetic analogs of the original molecule. That doesn't necessarily make them dangerous but that doesn't mean that you want to be spraying your buds with it either.

The original, natural strobilurin, dubbed strobilurin A, is produced by the pine cone fungus — Strobilurus tenacellus — a mushroom-producing fungus that is otherwise of no particular note. According to Dr. Henry Wetzel III, Biology Project Leader for BASF, this fungus actually colonizes pine cones and produces strobilurins “to keep the pine cone to itself, basically.”

The potential of strobilurins as fungicides was easy to see, but the molecule needed some improvements. The main obstacle was instability in the presence of light. If you're going to spray something on turf, crops or anything else growing out in the open, it must be able to tolerate sunlight without immediately breaking down. “That was the main impetus to find synthetic analogs… molecules that were more stable,” explains Wetzel. Several synthetic strobilurins are now available commercially, and the bulk are used agriculturally.

According to Wetzel, the synthetic products “have the same basic mode of action…they block electron transport through the mitochondrial system.” In layman's terms, “The fungus can no longer produce energy and sort of runs out of gas.”

To create their own unique strobilurins, manufacturers have devised different molecules that still exhibit the same basic mode of action. However, despite a common mode of action, strobilurins exhibit definite practical differences. For example, “They have different mobility in the plant and they are all a little different in their activity on pathogens,” says Wetzel.

https://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/groun...cides_natures/

Yea I hear what you say & agree, the thing is you would want to spray at the very start of flowering, not on your buds, it might give enough protection to last all the way.
One thought, if it is approved for tobbacco, then unless you smoke weed neat, then the chances are you are smoking it anyway.
Hats of to Silverback though, for raising some interesting alternatives. Aspirin comes from willow bark I think, but there again it is probably synthethised. Mould itself can be seriously carcinagenic & toxic. ... "Farmer's Lung is an allergic disease usually caused by breathing in the dust from moldy hay. However, dust from any moldy crop--straw, corn, silage, grain, or even tobacco--can also cause Farmer's Lung."

We are all probably better off eating weed, than smoking anything.

[Tropical]

Nice thread, silverback. I see that you don't believe it topping, but it it useful if you have a strain that produces very big colas. The smaller colas dry faster than one big one. OTOH, you accomplish the same thing with your tie-down method.

I usually grow my indicas in the dry season (that is winter and spring here), and I grow my sativas in the wet season (summer and fall) as they are more mold resistant. My indica mom is huge right now and I don't have an established sativa mom at the moment, so this is a good year for me to try an indica in the wet season with the potassium bicarbonate. Thanks silverback.