[smokey-cigars]

OK, so when you guys grow hydroponically, im just now getting into the game and im havin trouble,

when you guys mix you nutrients for your rez....my rez is 15 gallons

do you mix your nutes to a certain ppm per each week of growth?

or

do you mix your nutes to each section of life within the plant (IE seedling/clone,veg, veg to bloom, bloom, then 2 weeks of water


let me know what you guys do cause i need some help

Well when I first started Hydro I basically started off with 1/3 strength and gently ramped it up each few days according to how the plant reacted. A good rule of thumb for any grower when it comes to just the right mix is, to go till the very edges of the leaves are burnt and no more. This means you are maxed out for the plant but you are still giving it the most it can handle without burning the shit out of it.

I use Organic nutes so the PPM is gonna be very high. When I'm on my last batch of nutes before flushing, my PPM are not readable to the meter because it does'nt read that high.

So I guess in short, start low and react to what the plants are saying/showing. Just keep that PH in check. Priority #1

Blatant

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

smokey-cigars- The first 3 pages should put you on the right track...

Here the link.. Read Carefully.. Take Notes...

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=5060

do you mix your nutes to a certain ppm per each week of growth?

Yes.. You can change nutes ever 3days.. to a week..Too 2 weeks are not at all like some growers do.. I suggest you change your nutes every week to 2 week on what we call a phase feeding program... Phase feeding lets you keep the nutes ppm at the same level for 2 weeks.. Gives good growth...

do you mix your nutes to each section of life within the plant (IE seedling/clone,veg, veg to bloom, bloom, then 2 weeks of water

Yes.. Each stage of life has it own level of NUTES...NPK.Micros.. SubMicros.. But also differnt plants... Have differnt needs.. So phase feeding is good for growing.. You can see the need and wants of your plants... So next time you grow the same plants you can lower our higher the ppm for that Stage of growth...

Here a chart from GH that let you change the Nutes ever Week.. But you keep the PPm level the same.... So you do over fert the plants...




Info on phase feeding..... In here you will see for a week worth of growth (3day nute change,3day nute change, 1 day flush) .. But I change mine as GH states.. Change 1 time a week on the same level of nutes for 2weeks though... PPM and PH stay the same.. on both example I said above...



Phase Feeding



In order to better serve their customers needs many nutrient manufacturers have developed “feedcharts”. The data they contain is intended to suggest optimal usage of a combination of their products, typically on a week by week basis. Ideally, the grower consults their chart for the particular time period of their crop, determines which of the manufactures products to use, measures the appropriate quantities and applies as directed.



Reputable manufacturers and retailers have based their feeding program on years of experimentation with a variety of crops and growing conditions and through continued feedback from objective and competent growers. In fact some of this experimentation has not only led to modifications in their recommended feeding regimen, but sometimes the products themselves. Growers should be wary of feed schedules which are more concerned with getting you to buy as much of the products listed as possible, instead of suggesting products your crop actually can use in a given stage of growth. For example, how much benefit do you think you may realize by applying two sources of B-1 at the same time?



There are strong and often valid arguments that revolve around the concept that you should stick with one particular manufacturer’s products for the entirety of the crop for compatibility reasons. A proven feeding program can be essential for the success of the novice grower. However, some of the most successful growers are able to “think outside of the chart”, and draw from a broader arsenal of growing products from a variety of manufacturers.



A lot of factors come into play when determining how best to feed your favourite plants. The stage of plant development and the crops chronological age in that phase weighs largely in your considerations of what to feed and in what quantities. However, blindly following the feed program you picked up at the hydro shop isn’t going to necessarily give you the best results. It would be naïve to assume that all grow rooms are the same, therefore growing conditions will vary. As such, so will the extent of your plants’ development within a given time frame. For example, you have completed the rooting/seedling stage, and your chart calls for an increased amount of nutrients in what it deems “week 1” of vegetative growth. Experienced growers have learned from past mistakes that over applications of fertilizer (high in nitrogen), particularly in the early stages of a plant’s development can be disastrous. Also, some strains prefer different levels of nutrition.



So, if you had cooler rooting conditions and the donor plants were older and woodier, there is a greater likelihood that they would not have developed as robustly as younger donor material in warmer conditions (although the same chronological age). As a result, the new plants may not be prepared for the increased levels of nutrition as suggested by the chart you are following.



Now the problem becomes exponential. Growth is retarded due to an over abundance of fertilizer, and the plants fall further behind the lines drawn on the chart. This progresses into “week 2” on your chart, where the formula calls for a yet another increase in nutrient strength while your plants are screaming for mercy. This problem will continue to get worse until normal growth becomes abnormal. If this is not recognized, and the pattern continues into flowering, reduced yields and crop quality are near certain.



These are a couple of examples of potential pitfalls in treating printed feed charts as absolutes rather than guidelines.



Experienced growers learn to recognize their plants changing needs by careful observation and inference rather than force feeding their plants a prescribed diet. This is not to say that you can’t take control over your crop and steer it in the direction you desire. However figuratively speaking, driving it into a wall isn’t the answer just because the map says that it’s the right direction.



OK, so if you’re ready to do some tinkering, let’s get down to business.



The basis of this style of feeding will revolve around the notion that you can use a greater range of individual products on their own, over a greater number of applications rather than using fewer products in fewer applications but for longer durations. For those running automated systems it is suggested that you maintain intervals as a three day supply of nutrients, rather than a seven day cycle. Most growers using re-circulating media based systems usually need to replenish their reservoir within three days, as do their automated drain to waste counterparts (although the drain to waste growers are only limited to the size of their reservoir and changes in growth).



The following will be provided as an example of a specialized feed program, and is not necessarily the best and certainly not the only method; it is offered as an example.



Propagation:



Cuttings:

1) Presoak rockwool cubes for a minimum of 24 hours in a well aerated, mild strength (1/4 X), low nitrogen to phosphorous and potassium solution . For rockwool only, the pH should be maintained at 5.5. Squeeze excess moisture from the cubes before proceeding. Most other medias will simply need to be watered with pH adjusted (6.3) solution as described above.

2) Apply a biological inoculant to cuttings and emerging seedlings to colonize the growing medium and plants’ surface with beneficial life. Inoculants may be either endo (inside) or ecto (outside) colonizers or both. Some innovative rooting plugs contain beneficial inoculants such as Trichoderma to improve biological activity. Biologicals can serve to protect the plant by colonizing it with an army of beneficial microbes, standing guard to any potential pathogens. Furthermore, they can trigger an increase in the biological activity of the plant itself.

3) After seedlings show their first set of true leaves (after the cotyledon leaves) or cuttings have begun to indicate rooting, water with a pH adjusted mild kelp or B-1 solution. Additions of high quality fulvic acid will improve vigour and reduce the feed strength requirements. Continue until a minimum of three new sets of leaves have developed. Take care not to over water tender young plants, as damping-off may occur (because you have created anaerobic conditions)





Seeds:

1) Soak seeds for a few minutes in a microbial inhibitor or a very mild bleach solution for a minute or two to disinfect the seed surface from any pathogens that may have been left as residues from the donor crop. Rinse well with distilled water.

2) Soak the seeds for up to 24 hrs in a very mild kelp or B-1 solution to increase germination rates and improve seedling vigour.

3) After soaking, transplant seeds to medium pre-treated as described in Cuttings.





Transplant:



1) If required, pre-treat the growing media to be transplanted into with pH adjusted, balanced nutrient solution as recommended by the manufacturer for transitional growth. With popular three part nutrients, this is typically a 1 part to 1 part to 1 part ratio with 1/4X to 1/2X kelp solution or B-1 solution. Additions of fulvic acid will increase the nutrient capabilities of the growing media and reduce the amount of fertilizer you will need to add (as it will increase the effectiveness).

2) Immediately after transplanting the crop, or a portion of larger crops, apply a biological innoculant (see Cuttings) as a drench or as per the manufacturer’s directions.

3) In soil or soilless gardens, allow the first inch of the medium to dry out before the next fertigation or watering.

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Vegetative Growth:



Note: As discussed previously, the fertigation period is based on three day cycles, which is convenient in terms of automated nutrient delivery systems.



1) If the plants show no signs of nutrient stress, which symptoms include: abnormally dark leaves, scorched leaf tips, twisted or curling leaves; proceed to Step 2. Otherwise feed with a mild solution (400-500 ppm) as per Step 1 in Transplant. Re-evaluate after three days. In re-circulating systems, top up the reservoir with fresh water and monitor and adjust the pH accordingly.

2) Prepare the nutrient solution as per the manufacturer’s directions for this stage of growth. To play it safe you can use 50-75% of the recommended amounts and increase the feed strength after 3 days, when a new batch is mixed. In drain to waste systems where fertilizer solution is applied with each watering, many growers find that feed strengths of 500 to 750 ppm allow for vigorous growth with less risk of over applications while continuing to follow the manufacturers suggested feeding ratios.

3) If growth appears healthy and vigorous, proceed along with the manufacturer’s guidelines and time line. If plants show signs of stress, discontinue usage of additives and feed with the recommended general application formula not exceeding 650 ppm, adjusting the pH accordingly. Once normal growth resumes, you may choose to pick up where you left off on your feed chart and continue to the flowering/reproductive phase.



TIP: after two 3 day nutrient cycles (the 7th day) it is wise to mix a single day’s worth of ¼ strength nutrient solution to help remove any fertilizer residues which may accumulate before initiating another 3 day cycle. Alternatively, to reduce nutrient build up and improve root zone hygiene, consider applying a product to control the microbial load or enzymes to assist in breaking down decaying organic matter in the rhizosphere (root zone).

Early Flowering/Fruiting:



1) For the first and second nutrient cycle (6days) after initiating the photoperiod required for flowering, it is recommended that you apply only a transitional formula, as previously described not exceeding 500 ppm, unless plants indicate greater nutrient strengths are required (for example lower leaves become pale to yellow)

2) If you anticipate the variety you are cultivating has a relatively longer flowering period (8+weeks), you may consider continuing with the transitional formulation during the second nutrient cycling but increase the feed strength with additions of a supplement to elevate calcium/magnesium/iron/zinc levels while not significantly increasing nitrogen levels. If plants show signs of nutrient stress, dilute the solution in the reservoir and adjust the pH accordingly.

3) As previously, after 2 nutrient cycles (6 days) run a one day supply of fresh water with either an anti-microbial or enzymatic solution. Continue to proceed with the manufacturer’s recommendations as per the feed chart.





Flower Set/Early Fruiting



1) Indications of flowers should be visible within the first seven to ten days after initiating the critical photoperiod. If not, it is possible, that an abundance of nitrogen has delayed flowering, or that you are growing a variety with a very long period required to maturation. If there are no signs of nutrient stress, consider following the Early Flowering guidelines until flowers appear.

2) Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for product and mixing instructions for this stage of flowering on the feed chart.

3) After the first cycle (3 days) consider re-inoculating the crop with a biological stimulant, as sometimes the effectiveness of previous applications can begin to diminish after several weeks following the initial inoculation. Continue to follow the manufacturers feeding recommendations, and reduce feed strength if plants show any signs of nutrient stress.



TIPS:



-Continue to run an anti-microbial or enzymatic solution with pH adjusted water for one day every 2 nutrient cycles (6 days).

-In drain to waste systems where fertilizer solution is applied with each watering, many growers find that feed strengths of 500 to 750 ppm allow for vigorous flowering while reducing the risk of delayed or diminished harvests.





Mid Flowering/Fruiting to Ripening:



1) Continue using the manufacturer’s feed ratios and product suggestions. If not already indicated on your chart, consider an addition of a low nitrogen, high phosphorous guano tea in conjunction with your regular feed mix. This should be applied with the regular nutrient cycles in weeks 4 to 6 of an eight week flowering cycle. It will help to add a third dimension of sorts to a hydroponic feed program. If the anticipated flowering cycle is longer or shorter, adjust the duration of the guano application accordingly.

2) If not already apparent in your feed chart, weeks 4 to 6 in an eight week flowering cycle is the window of opportunity to promote large blooms. If you have fertilized sparingly up until this point, it is now time to make the push. At this point, nitrogen levels should be greatly reduced in hydroponic systems, and near eliminated in soilless systems. Phosphorous levels should be at their highest levels. Potassium levels can also be increased to promote even ripening and is required in abundance for healthy seed production. Bloom supplements often contain elevated levels of both phosphorous and potassium, and may offer other benefits for floral or fruit production.

3) In soilless set-ups, the final 10 days prior to your anticipated harvest date, you should consider applying only fresh, pH adjusted water. If you are applying water only, do not cycle as frequently as previous stages. Water sparingly, as not to strip the plant of valuable nutrients, but enough to let the crop consume the nutrients it has stored in reserve within the plan and growing media. This will allow for superior flavours and palatability without sacrificing yields.

In re-circulating hydroponic crops, for the final 5 days before anticipated harvest feed strengths should be greatly reduced, but not necessarily eliminated. The only stored nutrients will be in the plant material itself, unless you are in an organic based hydroponic media, rather than inert or bare-rooted. Consider applying low nitrogen, high phosphorous guano tea or bloom supplement at 1/4X, while maintaining the appropriate pH levels. For the final 24 hours prior to harvest run only pH adjusted water through the system to flush away any residual nutrients remaining

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Here are some basic.... Hope this help..



Check your nutrient IQ

by Lawrence Brooke

To the skilled hydroponic grower, nutrient management represents an opportunity to enhance plant growth. To the novice, it represents a challenge to be dealt with. The difference is in knowledge, understanding and equipment. Consider the following questions to test your nutrient IQ:



What temperature is your nutrient solution, what is the range during a day and during a season?

What is the "dissolved solids" content of the water you use to mix your nutrient and does this content vary greatly from season to season? Does your water supplier provide you with good water from one reservoir at one time of the year and bad water from a different reservoir at another?

Are there any components in your water that could affect the availability of nurtrients to your crop?



What is the "EC" or strength of your nutrient?Do you mix special nutrient blends for different kinds of plants and for each stage of the crop's life-cycle?



Does the pH of your nutrient stay within a reasonable range?



Are there any pathogens in your nutrient from a contaminated water supply or from sick plants that may spread disease to the rest of your crop?



Do you change your nutrient often enough to prevent excesses from salt accumulation or deficiencies from nutrient exhaustion?



Did you know that an important reason to change your nutrient solution is to eliminate the wastes your plants discard into the nutrient? Did you know that as plants transpire, moisture and nutrient levels drop in your reservoir and the EC or strength of the nutrient can rise to dangerous levels?



These are only a few basic question that may help you better realize what you already know, and what you may need to learn to achieve outstanding crops every time. This discussion is especially for the advanced grower who wants to achieve the highest yields and is seriously interested in being at the leading edge of plant growing technology. Hobby growers generally don't have to worry about all of these questions, but don't stop reading just yet. When problems arise and a crop isn't growing as well as it should. the problem can often be traced to nutrient management. Once you know what can go wrong, it's easier to recognize a problem when it happens.



The root environment is what separates hydroponics from soil cultivation. In soil, plants await rainfall or irrigation, and their roots search out essential nutrients. With good, fertile soil and abundant water plants thrive.



In hydroponics, the plant roots we constantly provided with water, oxygen and nutrients--no searching for available nutrients or waiting for the next rain. The challenge for the grower is to keep up with the plants' needs and to avoid damaging plants with excesses or deficiencies of minerals, extremes in pH and temperature, or a lack of oxygen. A few simple tools and techniques can make the difference between success and failure.



What's In Your Water?



The first question to consider is water quality. With good, soft water it's easy to succeed. Just add the right combinations of nutrients to the water and you're off and growing. If you have very hard water, or water contaminated with sodium, sulfide, or any number of heavy metals, you may have to filter your water using "reverse osmosis."



So, what's in your water anyway? The most complete answer comes from having an analysis of your water done by a lab. If you're on a municipal water system, call your water district and request a copy of their most recent analysis.



Another approach - highly recommended - is to check your water regularly with a dissolved solids meter, also called an electrical conductivity (EQ) or parts per million (PPM) meter. These instruments are one of the most important tools for a -grower to have and use regularly.



All of these instruments work in essentially the same way. They measure the electrical conductivity of the water. It is the dissolved salts in most water that allows it to conduct electricity. Pure water is a poor conductor since there are none of the conductive salts found in impure water. Purified water will show no, or very low, salt content (conductivity) when tested with a dissolved solids meter.



It is not uncommon to find high levels of salts in well water or municipal water supplies. Calcium and Magnesium carbonates are among the most common ingredients in tap water and in well water. In fact, water "hardness" is defined as a measure of the water's content of calcium and magnesium carbonates, or sulfates.



Since calcium and magnesium are important plant nutrients. water with reasonable levels of these elements can be just fine for hydroponic cultivation. However, even a good thing can become a problem if the levels are too high.



Generally, a calcium content of more than 200 PPM, or 75 PPM for magnesium, are on the verge of excessive for most hydroponic applications. An excess can cause other important elements in the nutrient solution to "lock-out" and become unavailable. For example. excess calcium can bond with phosphorous to make calcium phosphate, which is not very soluble and therefore not available to the crop. The key is to start with decent water and add the right combination of nutrients.



Too Hot, Too Cold

Water temperature is another important factor. If your solution is too cold, seeds won't germinate, cuttings will not root and plants will grow slowly - or stop growing and die. If it's too hot, the same seeds won't germinate, cuttings won't root and plants will die from oxygen deficiency or simply from temperature stress. Most plants prefer a root zone temperature range of between 65 degrees (18 C) and 80 degrees (27 C), cooler for winter crops, warmer for tropical crops. When adding water to your reservoir, it is a good idea to allow it to come to the same temperature as the water in the reservoir.



Remember, plant roots have evolved in a soil environment, where temperature changes occur slowly, tempered by the thermal mass of the earth.



Plants do not like rapid temperature changes, especially in the root zone!



Water pH

A subject that is often discussed but rarely understood by many growers is nutrient pH. Generally, we worry about pH and its affect on nutrient availability. For example, if pH is too high, iron may become unavailable. Eventhough your nutrient solution may have an ideal iron content, your plants may not be able to absorb it, resulting in an iron deficiency: the plant's leaves will yellow and weaken.



On the other hand, advanced hydroponic plant foods contain special "chelates" that are designed to assure iron availability at higher pH ranges. The result is that your crop will grow reasonably well. even at higher pH levels. Nonetheless, high pH can damage plants in other ways, The cause of a high solution pH can be fairly complex. Most city water supplies contain calcium carbonate to raise the pH of the water and prevent pipes from corroding. As a consequence you are starting with water that has an abnormal pH, typically 8.0 for city water.



The beg way to deal with this is to mix fresh nutrient with your water, let stand for a while to stabilize, then test and adjust the pH. With city water supplies you will often have to add a bit of pH down (usually phosphoric acid) to lower the pH to the range for most plants, between 5.8 and 6.2.



As the plants grow. it is a good idea to occasionally test the pH and adjust it if needed. You can safely allow pH to drift between 5.5 and 7.0 without adjustment. in fact, constantly dumping chemicals into your system to maintain a perfect pH of 5.8 to 6.0 can do a lot of damage. It is common for pH to drift up for a while, then down, and up again. This change is an indication that your plants are absorbing nutrient properly. Adjust pH only if it wanders too far.



A pH below 5.5 or above 7.0 can mean trouble. but don't overreact. An apparently sudden and dramatic shift in pH can be the result of a malfunctioning pH meter. If in doubt, double check with a reagent (color match) pH kit before adjusting your solution. Also remember that all pH measuring methods are temperature dependent. Read and follow all of the instructions that came with your meter or test kit.



Media Culpa

Another cause of unstable pH is poor quality growing media. Industrial grade rockwool and gravel are notorious for having very high pH levels that cause your nutrient pH to rise, often to constantly rise, often to dangerous levels.



A simple way to test a new growing medium is to put some of the medium - rockwool, gravel, soil - into a clean cup, then immerse (soak) the sample. in distilled or "deionized" (chemically pure) water. Let this sit for a little while and then test the pH of the water, note the pH and continue to let the sample sit. Test the pH occasionally for about a week until it has stabilized. Has the pH risen to 8.0, perhaps 9.0? Construction grade gravel can go as high as 10.0 - torture to roots. death to plants!



Never underestimate growing media as sources of pH problems. This is one of the primary reasons that "waterculture" hydroponic methods are gaining popularity over "media-based" hydroponics. The less medium you use, the fewer problems you will encounter with pH instability and salt accumulation. Plus, the water-culture systems require less water and nutrient than media-based methods, due to higher efficiency and reduced evaporation.

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Time for a change?

How often should you change your nutrient solution? That's one of the most common questions asked, and one of the most difficult to answer. Many people have tried to come up with a simple, easy-to-follow rule - once a week, every two weeks - but they're all wrong! They're wrong because there is no simple answer. It all depends on the species, the number and size of your plants. the capacity of the reservoir, the kind and quality of nutrient you use, water quality, environmental conditions such as temperature and humidity, and the type of hydroponic system used. Instead of a simple answer, what we need is a procedure that takes many of these variables into account and is responsive to changing conditions.



It sounds complicated, but it's actually quite simple. All it takes is a little monitoring and some basic record keeping. Start with a fresh reservoir of nutrient and make note of the date, pH, and EC or PPM of the solution. As you run the system, the level will drop in the reservoir. Note the EC/PPM level, then top-up the reservoir with fresh water. Test again for nutrient concentration. If the nutrient strength has dropped significantly, add a bit of nutrient to bring it back up to specs.



Be sure to record how much water you added to top-up the reservoir. Repeat the procedure every time you top up the system, carefully recording the amount of water added. When the total amount of water added equals the capacity of your reservoir. it is time to drain and replace all of the nutrient solution.



For example, imagine a hydroponic system in a cool, spring greenhouse with 24 strawberry plants and a nutrient capacity of 20 gallons. Typically, such a system would require about 5 gallons of added water each week, After four weeks the plants will have transpired 20 gallons - the capacity of the reservoir. You need to completely drain and replace the nutrient every four weeks in this example.



Nutrient Pathogens

The problem of pathogens or disease in the nutrient solution can be a serious one. It is not uncommon for this to be a regional and seasonal problem. For example, in Holland during the winter, fungi thrive in the cool and damp environment: the air is full of spores. All kinds of soil-borne diseases become endemic in the Dutch winter and growers have to work hard to avoid infestations. One of the reasons Dutch growers adopted hydroponics so readily was to avoid soilborne diseases.



Keep your growing area clean. Never allow soil to get into the nutrient stream. If soil is accidentally kicked into the reservoir, the entire crop can be at risk. Some growers will place a sponge-mat soaked with disinfectant at the doorway of the greenhouse. Everyone who enters must clean their shoes on this mat before entering. This is an effective and practical way to prevent disease organisms from entering the greenhouse and endangering the crop.



If an infected plant is introduced into a hydroponic system, the disease can race through the entire crop. By the time a problem is noticed it may be way out of control. Plant diseases are beyond the scope of this article, but the best advice is to avoid problems by working clean, planting only healthy disease free plants, and closely monitoring the crop.



If you see evidence of disease in a single plant, remove and destroy it quickly before the disease spreads. Watch the crop closely and destroy any other plants that show signs of disease. It is better to lose a few sick plants than to risk an entire crop.



If you do encounter disease problem, it in a good idea to completely drain and renew your nutrient after removing the sick plants. If it is possible there is nothing better than to flush the system by running fresh water without nutrient for a day. Then drain and refill with fresh nutrient. Flushing between every three or four nutrient changes can help maintain cleanliness in the root zone and in the hydroponic system. Periodic flushing is especially helpful for gravel systems to remove salt accumulation in the medium.




To the Limit

To some hobby growers,especially those who come to hydroponics from the " U-plant-em-and-pray" school of outdoor gardening, the techniques described above might seem too difficult and time-consurning. Remember, hydroponics offers great control over the health and quality of plants todays grower with the interest and the skill to exercise that control. That's what this article is all about - pushing it to the limits. Remember, too, that it is possible to produce a hydroponic garden that will out-perform any soil garden by simply following the manufacture's instructions on system operation and nutrient changes, and paying attention to the condition of your plants. But even the most casual grower can benefit from an understanding of a few basic concepts.



Quality water is a great advantage, poor water is a challenge. Use only the highest quality plant food, designed specifically for hydroponics. Low grade plant foods and common fertilizers offer your plants poor and incomplete nutrition, cause pH drift, and sometimes contain impurities that can become toxic to hydroponic plants, Only high-quality plant food can grow superior plants. Healthy plants grow faster, generate higher yields and are resistant to disease and insect infestation. When you mix fresh nutrient always measure carefully.



Keep notes an your observations of EC drift, pH drift, total water usage, temperature range, and comments on crop health and progress. Keep an eye on pH, and an especially close watch on nutrient strengh (PPM. EC, dissolved solids). Look out for diseases and remove and destroy sick plants immediately.



Control your nutrient temperature - use high quality aquarium heaters to warm nutrient in the winter, look for "chillers" to cool your nutrient in the summer if high nutrient temperature becomes a problem. The aquaculture or fish farming people have developed excellent chillers. Fish don't like water that's too hot or too cold either.



Don't be overwhelmed or intimidated. Plants can tolerate quite a lot of stress and still produce well. On the other hand, the grower who knows the questions. and how to find answers, is the one who will have consistently good crops. It is far easier to avoid problems through knowledge and proper technique than to fix them after they arise.




I hope you grow.. Big HUGH BUDS>> If you need anything..Just ask..

Sauce

[Hooked-On-Grown]

excellant info sauce!!

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Hooked-On-Grown- Thanks....