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04-27-2008, 12:35 AM
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#121 |
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According to this doc, coco peat would be your best bet as opposed to wood... i'll try and scrounge up more information tomorrow, kinda tired right now
 https://books.google.com/books?id=xqy...SsE#PPA1032,M1 ..and please please please take down that wiki quote... it is a complete bitch slap to science and the truth... there are other journals that actually describe the science behind their soil... with tools like spectrometers and etc.. there is no need for the mysticism anymore. The only true debate is how much of an influence time had on any samples taken for research... a compost pile left untouched for hundreds of hundreds of years is going to be dank... if anyone has a time machine, I would love to borrow it for a little while
Last edited by Indica Sativa; 04-27-2008 at 12:48 AM.. |
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04-27-2008, 02:57 AM
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#122 | |
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Living Organic Soil...
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oz
Posts: 1,930
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Quote:
Anyway, whatever... charcoal works. 
__________________
Happy happy, joy joy - Stimpson J.Cat Dr. Richard Lindzen MIT "Controlling carbon is a bureaucrat's dream. If you control carbon, you control life." Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere - Martin L.King Jr Terra Preta Dark Soil Experiment Recycled Organic Living Soil Organic Fanatics Australia |
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05-14-2008, 10:25 AM
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#123 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 529
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wow, those are seriously big for being in such small containers.
I can't imagine what could happen if given a large bed of TP to grow in. I mean, that's so heavy for such a small pot. |
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05-14-2008, 01:24 PM
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#124 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,036
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I highly recommend adding bone and pottery fragments as well as charcoal if you can.
I get bones from what I eat, let the cat strip them, then the ants, then dry them out for a while, and smash them up and add to the mix. My mix is growing faster than hydro. And faster than a TP mix without bone and pottery. All measures aproximate. For 100 litres of mix. 10 litres charcoal. 2.5 litres bone fragments. 2.5 litres pottery. 0.5 litres dolomite lime. 0.5 litres bone meal. 34 litres compost. 40 litres topsoil. 10 litres clay subsoil. Best dirt mix I've found so far. I would add more bones but it takes a while to eat all them critters. |
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05-14-2008, 03:24 PM
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#125 |
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dirty black hands
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: the old growth forest
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looks like a good mix Fista, soil growing faster than hydro is no big deal happens all the time if your doing shit right. where do you get your charcoal from?
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“Everything is written in the book of nature. This book is always open.” sepp holzer |
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05-14-2008, 04:29 PM
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#126 |
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**AWD** Aficianado
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: In the healing arms of planet love.
Posts: 2,435
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BUMP!
I was just perusing for my own growth. great info in here. S
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Organic Fanatic Collective  Suby's Kitchen  The "Beer" Fridge  ~Pimp Your Organic Fertilizer~
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05-15-2008, 12:17 PM
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#127 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,036
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Quote:
But I am still a learner with soil. TP makes good soil easy for beginners. The charcoal was from hardwood and contained some brownish coals, not quite done type thing. A lower temperature pyrolisation of charcoal has unique properties... Above 450 degrees most of the impurities are burnt off in the char making process, to the tune of around 50 000 ppm. When pyrolised around 400 degrees however, the impurities are as low as 1 ppm. The difference is clearly substantial. The impurities left in the wood are plant resins terpines etc. These are readily digested by bacteria - as readily as sugar! Pollution = bacterial food = plant food. There are many types of char and companies on the new TP bandwagon getting research to align with their products. Don't be fooled. Scientists for the most part are paid to back up that which they work on, and they do exactly that. So many TP projects including NPK ferts - WTF!!!!!  Will they ever learn...  Low temp pyrolised woodchar = superior char. How an individual might make lower temperature char for themselves is the tricky bit. I'm no engineer unfortunately, but I'm sure someone here might have a few ideas. Innoculating your char, bones and pottery is a good move. In the compost pile or with a compost tea, it helps establish the micro-herd that much faster. Alfalfa or other legumes are great for starting TP plots as the initial addition of TP can lower nitrogen levels in soil. I believe the bacteria bloom so well in TP conditions the nitrogen is still present, just that it is taken up in the nitrogen cycle by bacteria. Save the planet and the farm - hell yeah! TP is awesome!  Edit - The link provided at the top of the page suggests biomass materials for active charcoal, this is not what is sought in a char created for soil. Low temp pyrolised char adds soil nutrition via plant resins (pollutants). Activated charcoal soaks up pollutants. After time the activated charcoal will be 'full', or glutted, with bacteria and nutrients, and then it should perform very well. Until then it may drain your soil of nitrogen and other nutrition, and subsequently push the pH up. To the hobby TP gardener this poses problems. To fully realise the potential of TP - low temp pyrolised wood char is preferable. But access to the correct char is patchy, to put it generously. Innoculation again springs to mind. To err on the side of caution. Regardless of the char you use it will benefit from pre-treatment before addition to your soil. Again - placing the TP ingredients of char pottery and bone in a compost pile or compost tea. (with some kelp and EWC and molasses would be best). The idea is to glut the material with organic matter so it doesn't drain it from your soil. Most gardeners here know how to feed their soil. TP reacts just like any other organic soil to some tender loving care. Like other organic gardens, Terra Preta mixes love compost, teas, legumes, blood and bone, molasses, worm products, kelp, sand, clay, etc. Last edited by MrFista; 05-15-2008 at 01:42 PM.. |
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05-15-2008, 12:56 PM
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#128 |
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OG flotsam
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Wooly Swamp US Of A
Posts: 359
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05-15-2008, 01:59 PM
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#129 |
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dirty black hands
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: the old growth forest
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ahh good stuff mr fista, even with your 3 posts seems like your doin shit right.
haha dont worry, most people think im nuts when i say soil grows = hydro in speed and yield. its all about getting soil mix dialed in for specific strains. you are right though most of the time soil is slower in general, MOST is the key word  i think TP in the compost process is real good. i always add chunks at the bottom of my pile and also throughout.
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“Everything is written in the book of nature. This book is always open.” sepp holzer |
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05-17-2008, 01:58 PM
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#130 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,036
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Dignan provided this link in the culturing beneficial nematodes thread.
Soil Food Web It provides the simplest explanation for the vanishing nitrate in various TP experiments that I've seen. "When bacteria and fungi multiply they gather up free nitrogen from the soil and convert it to protein in their bodies." "Soil bacteria... need a lot of nitrogen and they grab it quickly (more quickly than plants) so they often go after some of the residual nitrogen from fertilisers, if present." |
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