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Old 10-18-2007, 03:59 PM #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanfiking
My 26F 6Ms are doing really well under the 125W (Blue) at the moment I'm getting a new RED 200W soon. and I haven't given them any nutes at all, I even starved them for a bit they didn't like that much but they made an amazing recovery within 2/3 days. I've been snapping the stems to keep growth low and stems thick leaves nice and bushy, and they seem to love it, responding well to everything!

EDIT: Does anyone have any good pre harvest shots of these strains???
Hello hanfiking,

great to hear 26x6 haze seedlings are growing fine. Fluoro is also a good option to sex haze from seed. Sativas grow under fluoros with moderate vigour and short internodes. HPS produces more heat peaks and more vigorous growing with long internodes.

Tropical sativas grown from seed would overgrow most indoor spaces before sex definition. It'd be perfect grow them under fluoros til sex definition and then move them under intense HPS light for flowering.

Best wishes for to all growers!

Last edited by dubi; 10-18-2007 at 04:00 PM..
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:45 PM #142
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"Worm casting provides slowly adequate amount of Nitrogen for rest of flowering and guano provides P+K."
Hola dubi
I don´t put worm castings because the bat guano I use has an extra 2%N
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:50 PM #143
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your hazes look awesome.
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:11 AM #144
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your hazes look awesome.
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Old 10-20-2007, 01:16 AM #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubi
Hola herbalistic

Feeding tropical sativas like haze with excessive Nitrogen at the beginning of flowering would produce huge plants with lot of small branches, hard to light indoors.

N excess in early flowering also makes slower flowering reaction, not desirable when working with this kind of tropical genetics.

I'd recommend flower columnar haze clone with a few strong branches for at least 6-8 weeks under 11 light/ 13 darkness photoperiod, like raco is doing here (even smaller pot can also work too) :
Yeah, you hit the nail!! I didnt consider delay in start of flowering... .. .. .. . . .. .

Quote:
Originally Posted by dubi
Hello hanfiking,


great to hear 26x6 haze seedlings are growing fine. Fluoro is also a good option to sex haze from seed. Sativas grow under fluoros with moderate vigour and short internodes. HPS produces more heat peaks and more vigorous growing with long internodes.

Tropical sativas grown from seed would overgrow most indoor spaces before sex definition. It'd be perfect grow them under fluoros til sex definition and then move them under intense HPS light for flowering.

Best wishes for to all growers!
I agree 100 %. I veg all my plants with Nurturelite, or Envirolite and I must say they produce very healthy grow. It seems that the sprect is kinda perfect for plants and is you can have choose proper sprect for veg & flowering + the fact that is helping me much -> they control strecth and make those short internodes!!
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Old 10-20-2007, 02:17 AM #146
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ive never used worm caseins? its worm shit right?

i use FFOF soil, which is pretty hot to start with, so ya think addin worm dung to it would be to much?

nice plant raco, mine always look real nice in veg and in flower up to about 10 weeks, and then everything comes unglued. im gonna go with what you guys are sayin, cause i aint had no luck on my own, lol.

ive tried many different remedies....noones ever said anythig about not usin liquid nutes on um. i have a few big ass pots, about 3ft diameter, only around 18 inches deep. wonder if those would work? damn, there goona take up some space.....and knock my plant count all to hell, lol.

great thread, im off to germ some fookin Haze, cant wait to give this a go

Last edited by luminous; 10-20-2007 at 02:19 AM..
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Old 10-20-2007, 09:20 PM #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luminous
ve never used worm caseins? its worm shit right?

i use FFOF soil, which is pretty hot to start with, so ya think addin worm dung to it would be to much?

nice plant raco, mine always look real nice in veg and in flower up to about 10 weeks, and then everything comes unglued. im gonna go with what you guys are sayin, cause i aint had no luck on my own, lol.

ive tried many different remedies....noones ever said anythig about not usin liquid nutes on um. i have a few big ass pots, about 3ft diameter, only around 18 inches deep. wonder if those would work? damn, there goona take up some space.....and knock my plant count all to hell, lol.

great thread, im off to germ some fookin Haze, cant wait to give this a go
I use only worm castings (worm $h!t), molasses, high-P bat guano (flower), and azomite (flower) on sensitive sativas. You could get away with using only worm castings in veg and part of flower. I don't use any nitrogen fixing bacteria because that will fix nitrogen too fast. Teas I dilute to about 1/10 - 1/15. Raco must either top dress or mix that high-N guano in the soil because there is not a single burnt tip in that pic (you are very skilled at growing sativas sir!). I've noticed some of your haze pics being extremely dark with some burnt tips, but overall perfect looking (despite too high N; doing good man). The FFOF is WAY too hot for sativas. I think sometimes the worm castings or compost that comes mixed in the soil it too strong for some babies (like buku's). Guano takes about a month to fully break down as well as granular or powdered glacial rock dust (azomite). You might wanna try top dressing with a small amount of P guano and azomite in flowering because both are very gentle release. Good to see you around, hope all is well. Hit me up if you need anything as always.

I'd love to hear how dubi and raco feed their sativas, looking killer guys.


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Old 10-20-2007, 10:28 PM #148
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If the guano takes some time to breakdown, could it not be mixed in with your mix and left to sit like a compost pile and turned once in awhile to leech out any extra nitrogen that might harm the Sativas? Another thing I have wondered about is could you mix up the soil mix (if it has access to mycorrhiza, such as a pit dug in soil) and then set up a trap for the mycorrihiza and then using as normal for potting? Would this be beneficial for the sensitive sativas such as OldTimer's Haze?
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:57 AM #149
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Limeygreen: Some of the guano is immediately available (the soluble %'s) and the insoluble parts break down over the period of about a month. Composting the guanos could make the compost too hot if too much is added. One could mix soil and compost to dilute it. Top dressing with some worm castings and finding out the proper amounts for the strain you are growing would be the easiest way to veg, IMO. Then adding small amounts of P-bat guano and azomite for flowering when the plant starts to put on buds would be one of the easiest ways, IMO. Then making sure all the guano is used up before the flush so it tastes oh so good.

Mycorhizae is fine and won't fix any plant nutrients too fast. It can be cultured in a pot, allowed to dry out, and its spores can be collected. There is a post about it in the organic fanatic collective thread in the organic soil forum.

Trichoderma harzianum and Voodoo Juice in particular are a little too much for sativas early in veg. The T. Harz is an accelerated vegetative growth microorganism (P-overfeed for sativas) and voodo juice contains a nitrogen fixer (N-overfeed for sativas).


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Old 10-30-2007, 06:01 PM #150
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the green haze ever being released or the oldtimer haze strains relisted?
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