|
in:
|
|
Forums
> IC Magazine
> International Forums
> Australia/New Zealand
>
Specifics of Growing in Australia
| ||
| Specifics of Growing in Australia | Thread Tools |
|
|
#21 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
I actually didnt bother with the cfls. I've had them outside since they came up. Ive just put the humidy dome on over night and in the bad weather patches.
A new moon is a good time for germing seeds mate
|
|
|
|
|
#22 | |
|
Another Dreamer
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: On top of a giant mushroom
Posts: 238
![]() ![]() |
Quote:
How do you check that? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#23 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Same spot for the sun table. At the top you can just switch it to Moon.
|
|
|
|
|
#24 |
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 53
![]() |
hey all great information goin around here this is my first post been here i used to be a member of o.g for a few yrs my name was ionlygrow but yeh to the point
wer i live on the coastline i find the soil to prety much clay every where the best places i find to grow is where the lantana is ver gud fo guerila growing and the soil there is ok to dig up first what i tr to do is dig my site or holes and add sum clay breaker u can find this at ure local bunnings then i like to bring sum of my own soil in just organic potting mix blood and bone and a few fish guts i try to let that sit for as long as i can about a month or so the it should be pretty write to plnt in the longer left the betta now the best time i find to put my plants outdoors here is indicas about late october sativas september i hop ths helps someone plz ask questions on other soil methods cause i have been growing in clay areas 4 a long time happy O.G |
|
|
1 members found this post helpful. |
|
|
#25 |
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oz
Posts: 194
![]() ![]() ![]() |
Rock and roll folks. Mid September to Oct for South Australian styles. have a few seedling @ the moment. May post some pics in the future. any1 got any Aussie pics to post should do it. Peace out!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#26 |
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oz
Posts: 194
![]() ![]() ![]() |
Some pics folks
|
|
|
|
|
|
#27 |
|
GREEN
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: river/sea
Posts: 239
![]() ![]() |
Hey,
I have been gone for a while and before i left i neglected to accumulate all the information into my initial post. Well as i am back now, this thread will be put into gear, and i hope the initial enthusiasm shown by you fellow Australians is still there. The reason Australia should have detail specific information of every region is because of the unique geology, bio-geography and geomorphic history of Australia. Australia is located in the middle of a tectonic plate, with little volcanic or tectonic activity, Australia has undergone little geological change but has experienced mass weathering both mechanical and chemical . This situation has created a comparably flat continent, with deeply weathered and infertile soils. The majority of Australias population is found close to the coast, and in some instances such as the south-west region of western Australia , population centers are on coastal plains. It is critical to understand the geology of such areas, as it allows growers to fully understand the soil complexity and characteristics, and how it can be altered for grower utilization. Coastal plains are created by the elluvial movement of weathered bedrock, such bedrock as the yilgarn craton in WA, and the transgressional movements of the ocean, causing succession of dune systems. This changing landscape creates sandy soils, that are infertile and nearly void of any organic horizon . Further away from coastal plains , are large shields of bedrock(this is the original coast-line of Australia as it split from Gondwana) soils in these areas are caused by direct weathering of bedrock and present a different set of soil characteristics. This is just a general overview, but in time ill get everyones contributions together. Please for academic authenticity reference where you can! Im going to dig up my references later! lets get the ball rolling.... b
__________________
HHardcore warrior
|
|
|
|
|
|
#28 |
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 34
![]() |
GREAT THREAD/IDEA
What brand of potting mixes and fertilizers (aussie ones of course ) are we all using?Im using a lot of Searles products for the first time at the moment Blood and Bone, Sulfate of Potash, Dolomite, also got some Gypsum by them as well but I have talked to a few people and they reckon don't bother with the gypsum since it takes to long to take effect as a clay breaker, but I do intend to use several plots for as long as I can, and that could mean 3-5years+ if I play my cards right ,so what you think? I know the dolomite is a clay breaker as well but you think i should throw some Gypsum in the mix or waste of time? For Potting Mix I been using Amgrow Premium Potting Mix or there Pot'n'Peat Black Label, I like the pot'n'peat stuff ![]() Thinking of trying Searles Potting mix and there 5 in 1 mix,, Thank you for the Soil Maps! the season is ccreeping up, Im gonna start making some mothers soonish to get a few cuts sorted by november (mid starts) ![]() but atm just got a fair few little ones outside now, mid winter but they doing fine, I just hope I get some nice colours outta them PRAYING FOR RAIN BUT THEN NOT SURE IF THE PLANTS WILL COPE WITH THE HUMIDITY AFTER IT!!! hmmm,
|
|
|
|
|
|
#29 |
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 383
![]() ![]() |
I am using the Searles vegetable & herb potting mix with a few other ferts, seems alright. My tried and true fertiliser is filterpress damn that shit makes for some good big buds.
__________________
Heat is your friend! |
|
|
|
|
|
#30 |
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 80
![]() |
After a disappointing grow last year, I will be taking a simpler approach to my grow this year.
The main problem I had was actually out of my control. I have a very limited grow space, so can only grow a maximum of three plants at a time. I start my plants indoors while they're seedlings, then move them outside 'till harvest. If they all turn out to be male, like last year, it means I lose quite a bit of time and valuable seasonal conditions, resulting in a vastly reduced harvest. The other factors that led to my disappointing grow were within my control. I believe I dug too much cow manure into my site. Not that it led to burn, but that it supplied my plants with too much nitrogen in flower, which resulted in loose and leafy buds, with too much stem. I also used Seasol religiously for the first time, which I believe may have led to my plants using the available nitrogen too efficiently. I will be leaving both supplements out of my grow this season. I will also be disregarding mulch for my site, after deciding it is actually detrimental rather than beneficial for my particular situation. Two seasons back, I mulched heavily around my plants after experiencing trouble in keeping my plants adequately hydrated in seasons prior. The mulch, together with the highest amount of rainfall i've ever seen in Sydney (in my 25 years), led to a serious case of mould and I lost my entire harvest. So as i've indicated, i'm going into Season '09/'10 with the "less is more" approach. I will be trying to mimic what I did in Season '06/'07 as much as possible, as it was by far my most successful harvest to date. Though, a concern of mine is that I may have too much organic matter mixed through my site from seasons past. That may sound like an odd thing to say, but seeing as though I am available attend to my site every day, I can water and feed my plants well enough, without needing organic matter to improve WHC (Water Holding Capacity) and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity). One more thing I will be going back to is using a premium potting mix for my seedlings. I tried using a regular potting mix last year as I always experienced a bit of nutrient burn in previous years when my plants were young. I thought I could prevent that with a regular potting mix, and I did, but in turn I then experienced significantly slower growth. Fear of overfertilising via manual feeding resulted in insufficient and uneven nutrient uptake. Now i'm of the mindset that 2 or 3 slightly burnt leaves and otherwise great growth is better than slow and stunted growth. As for my products of choice, I will stick with Martins Premium Potting Mix. Martins Fertilizers is a Yass based company, who supply many Southern Highland/Tableland and ACT nurseries, as well as a growing number of Sydney nurseries. I don't know if they supply any other states, and would be interested to hear of any other interstate posters who have seen their brand in their local areas. They do not supply Bunnings, as Bunnings is already heavily affiliated with Richgro and Yates. As i've stated, I will not be using any soil amendments for my outside site this year, but if I were living in a particularly dry area and/or couldn't attend to my site regularly, I would still use a combination of Martins Premium Garden Mix and their Cow Manure. Their cow manure is particularly rich when compared to another brand I am familiar with in Greenlife, which is the bagged product department of ANL (Australian Native Landscapes). As for fertilisers, I will mostly be sticking to Hortico's Aquasol (during vegetation), which is now under the Yates/Orica umbrella of consumer products. Formula wise, it is fairly similar to Yates Thrive All Purpose, but I started using Aquasol first, so will stick with it. Miracle Gro ain't a bad one either, but we're sticking to Australian made, right? Technically, I guess Yates has foundation in New Zealand, but it's been a brand in Australia longer than we've even had a Prime Minister, so that has to be respected. While i'll mostly use Aquasol for veg, i'll also alternate it with Charlie Carp fish emulsion. Though, one thing I don't like about Charlie Carp is how diluted it is compared with other fish emulsions on the market. I'll stick with it nonetheless. During flower, i'll use a few products, including Manutec Bloom Booster (mostly during the stretch stages), Manutec Potassium Sulphate, Richlea Better Bloom (liquid solution of potassium and phosphorous, no nitrogen), and either Yates or Richgro Super Phosphate. I prefer to use liquid/soluble fertilisers over granular or slow release forms because it allows for a higher degree of control, which, I believe, when growing cannabis (i.e. heavy feeder and short life span) is most ideal. jesusprice, I would personally use gypsum over dolomite as a clay breaker any day of the week. Gypsum is also much cheaper. I know you can buy a 25kg bag for $12.95, and I bet it can be found even cheaper than that, perhaps even under $10. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|