[tokinjoe]

Dude I don't think they are termites. I'm not really sure what they are. I would go to either Lowe's or another store with pesticides and get a garden type pesticide and put it around the plants and under the pots. See if that does the trick. Good luck man.

Originally Posted by tokinjoe

Dude I don't think they are termites. I'm not really sure what they are. I would go to either Lowe's or another store with pesticides and get a garden type pesticide and put it around the plants and under the pots. See if that does the trick. Good luck man.

Hmmm...I'll go check out the Cannabis Infirmary and see what they have to say. Thanks for the help though.

[tokinjoe]

Wish I could tell you what those are, bro. Either way I'd get a garden friendly pesticide that kills most bugs and try it. I don't like bugs on my mj, especially if I don't know what they are. No telling if they are predators or not. Another idea is you can go online and google bug species for your state. I'd bet money you'd find the bug you are looking for right there. Dude, when I want to know about it, I google almost everything. Most answers on those kinds of things are right here at your fingertips. Good luck finding out what they are. If you don't mind, post up when you do. Ya got my curiousity up.

I started a thread in the Cannabis infirmary(Check here), and it looks like I have Springtails. Now I just have to combat them....World war 3, maybe not, but there sure will be alot more of them dead then me(or so I hope haha).

[ChaosCatalunya]

Originally Posted by LittleBigMan

You can use neem cake in the soil & its also a great organic fertilizer to boot...

Originally Posted by tokinjoe

Another of my biggest pests are caterpillars. I apologize in advance if it's been posted on in this thread and I've missed it, but DIPEL (Thuricide) is the way to kill these bud destroying pests. Caterpillars eat the bud and as they do they leave a trail of waste or excrement behind them. This is especially damaging to the budding plant as the caterpillar bores into the bud and excrements behind itself. All it takes is rain, dew or both and the excrement will mold, and it quickly spreads to the rest of the bud. Often it is not noticed as the bud actually rots from the inside out.

I've used Dipel in the past in powder form but it's hard to hide a plant that has been treated. For this reason I'll be using the liquid Dipel from now on. It is a pest specific day of harvest pesticide that kills upon ingestion, not contact. One plant I had was severely infested and after treatment I could not find a live caterpillar anywhere. Needless to say due to damage I had to harvest the plant prematurely. It also kills a variety of worms and other caterpillars that destroy crops. I get mine at Lowe's in powder form and dont' recall seeing the liquid form although your local store may have it. Most of the caterpillar damage I've observed has been in the later budding stages and it's advisable to be proactive in treating the plants before the caterpillars infest them if that's possible. I hope this helps.

Neem Oil is the Dog's bollocks, it is the only thing I need or use to get rid of Caterpillars and other bastardos. Here in Spain the biggest problem is Caterpillars, plagues of them at times. Not only do you loose a lot of your crop to them munching, but even the most rot resistant varieties here [Kali Mist, Powerplant] will rot once a Caterpillar has made holes through a bud.

Many other insects will avoid Neem treated plants, it really is win-win.....but, it needs to be used pre emptively, in advance..I spray once a month a mix called "Extracto de Neem" by Premium [www.horticulturatecnica.com] that really seems to do the business.

[killerhydrovzla]

Hello!!! how do you keep away/ kill leafhopper, they´re are killing my outdoor op

[PazVerdeRadical]

bumping this thread because it kicks serious ass, and adding a guide I have just found googling on how to grow mint:

"Botanical Name:
Mentha

Common names:
Common mints in the garden include Spearmint and Crinkled-leafed Spearmint, Peppermint, Apple Mint and Pennyroyal (which is toxic and cannot be eaten).

Description:
Except for Pennyroyal, Mint grows on upright stems to a height of 1-2 feet high, has aromatic leaves and sends up spikes of small, pink to purple flowers that bloom in the late summer. Pennyroyal, with its small pointed leaves and cluster of pink flowers, creeps along on slender roots and makes a good ground cover. If left unchecked, all Mints spread rapidly throughout the garden by way of runners.

Life Cycle:
hardy perennials

Exposure:
full sun to partial shade

Cultivation:
Mint prefers moist, fertile soil and strong afternoon sun. All varieties are considered invasive and should be carefully controlled by growing in pots or employing underground plastic barriers to keep runners from spreading. Mint can be grown in baskets, containers or in outdoor beds. Start plants from cuttings rooted in water or by division. Set transplants in pots buried flush with the soil or in beds spaced 9 to 12 inches apart. Mint growing outdoors should be cut back to 6 inches in the fall and mulched over winter.

Propagation:
dependent upon type-division, cuttings, runners or seeds

Parts Used:
leaves

Harvesting and Storage:
Mint leaves can be cut and used fresh as needed or dried or frozen. Store leaves in sealed containers until used.

Medicinal Uses:
antiseptic; appetite stimulant; digestive aid; preventative dentistry; relaxation; nasal decongestant; breath freshener

Culinary Uses
Peppermint: flavoring for chocolates, candies, ice cream and other desserts. Spearmints: flavors sauces, vegetables, cold drinks and teas, fruit dishes, soups. Pennyroyal: do not consume

Other Uses:
soap; skin care; garlands; insect repellant; scented candles; laundry rinse; hanging baskets, garden beds and borders "

[PazVerdeRadical]

epa killerhidro, como va eso? how is everything? hope all is good

here is a little info, more info here https://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/INSECT/05536.html

"
*Grasshoppers are the most difficult insect to control because they are highly mobile.

*All grasshoppers lay their eggs in soil.

*There are over 100 species of grasshoppers in Colorado.

*During periods when local outbreaks are developing, control usually involves using sprays or baits.

Grasshopper Control
Natural Controls
The most important factors are weather related, particularly around the time of egg hatch. For example, cold, wet weather is very destructive to newly hatched grasshoppers. However, very dry winter and spring conditions also can be harmful to survival since required tender new plant growth is not available.


Some insects commonly feed on grasshoppers. Many species of blister beetles (see fact sheet 5.524, Blister Beetles in Forage Crops) develop on grasshopper egg pods and blister beetle abundance cycles along with their grasshopper hosts. Adult robber flies are common predators of grasshoppers during summer and other flies develop as internal parasites of grasshoppers. Many birds, notably horned larks and kestrals, feed heavily on grasshoppers. Grasshoppers are also frequently eaten by coyotes.


Grasshoppers are also subject to some unusual diseases. A fungus (Entomophthora grylli) infects grasshoppers causing them to move upwards and cling to plants shortly before they kill the insect host. Stiff, dead grasshoppers found stuck to a grass stem or twig indicate infection with this disease. A very large nematode (Mermis nigriscens) also sometimes develops in grasshoppers. Both the fungus disease and nematode parasite are favored by wet weather.


Managing Grasshoppers with Baits and Sprays
During periods when a local outbreak develops, control usually involves using sprays or baits. To be successful these need to be applied to developing stages of grasshoppers and concentrated at sites where egg laying occurs. Ability to control grasshoppers declines as grasshoppers develop and migrate.


Surveys of grasshoppers can be very useful in anticipating problems and treating appropriately. Numbers of grasshoppers present in late summer and early fall can be a good indicator of problems the subsequent year. Follow-up surveys the following spring to detect young nymphs can determine when eggs have hatched. Area-wide surveys may locate egg beds and other sites where early season activity originates.


Treatments should be directed at the young grasshoppers and nearby vegetation present in these breeding sites. At lower altitudes, this often occurs in May; early June may be the optimal time for grasshoppers at higher elevations. Sprays of insecticides are most effective at this time and several insecticides are effective

Insecticide options are greater for larger acreages and unit costs are less expensive. The addition of canola oil to insecticide sprays can improve control by making treated foliage more attractive to feeding grasshoppers.


Alternately, baits containing carbaryl (Sevin) can be broadcast. Bait formulations are made by mixing the insecticide with bran or some other carrier and kill grasshoppers that feed on the bait. These treatments limit application effects on other insects present in the treated area. However, availability of Sevin baits is frequently limited, or prohibitively priced for use on large areas. Baits must be reapplied after rain.


Insecticide treatments do not need to completely cover the area since grasshoppers are mobile. Insecticides applied as bands covering 50 percent of the area, or even less, have proved very effective for control of grasshoppers in rangelands. Backpack sprayers and application equipment modified for use on ATVs can be used in larger acreages. A review of this method, known as Reduced Area Acreage Treatments (RAATS) has been prepared by the University of Wyoming at: www.sdvc.uwyo.edu/grasshopper/atvraats.htm.


Where grasshoppers develop over large areas and impact several properties, coordinated area-wide control is very useful. As this requires some additional preparations in planning, early surveys are even more important. Grasshopper control often is much more successful as a community effort.


Once grasshoppers have reached the adult stage and migrations occur, some insecticides may be applied directly to plants. Such applications have only short effectiveness and damage can occur before individual grasshoppers are killed. Furthermore, the choice of insecticides is more limited since few allow direct application to garden fruit and vegetables.


Nosema locustae Baits
Baits containing the protozoan Nosema locustae is a biological control option that may be considered for treating grasshopper breeding sites. This is sold under the trade names NOLO Bait or Semaspore and can produce infection of many species of grasshoppers. Because it is selective in effects, only affecting grasshoppers, its use is sometimes considered desirable.


There are some limitations to Nosema locustae baits. Only young grasshoppers are susceptible, and it can not be used effectively after adult migrations have occurred. It is also fairly slow acting and does not equally infect all grasshopper species. Often it is most effectively used in a long-term grasshopper management program, in combination with other controls.

Nosema locustae baits are also perishable. They are best kept refrigerated before use. Expiration dates are usually printed on packages and should be checked.

Other Controls
If insecticides are not used, some protection of a garden may be possible by watering grasshopper breeding areas to promote plant growth. This may retard migrations of grasshoppers to areas of more desirable plants. Mowing or other activities that deny food plants in breeding sites should be avoided.


Susceptible plants may be protected by screening or cheesecloth barriers. However, grasshoppers can chew through most fabrics.


Repellents do not appear to be effective. Some materials used as repellents, such as vegetable oils and garlic-based preparations, may instead increase grasshopper feeding on plants.


Poultry may feed heavily on grasshoppers. Turkeys, guinea hens, and chickens have all been used to help control grasshoppers. However, garden areas may need to be fenced since scratching by chickens can be harmful to young plants."

[Verdi99]

A 12 volt electric fence has always done the trick for me.Stretch the wire about 6-8 inches off the ground and make sure not to let the weeds grow up in it.The fence box will put off a small clicking sound and I guess thats what will keep the deer away.In the areas where I have always grown groundhogs are the big problem.When their belly rubs against that fence they wont be back.After the weed is about waist high you can start letting you batteries go dead,by that time it is too bitter for deer and any other varmint that has been there wont be back.....Verdi99

[Koi]

I have a huge problem with snails this year. Any cheap solutions to kill them off or make them stay away at a distance from the plants.