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#121 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 212
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Something else came to mind as I was mixing up Recipe #1. Is that recipe designed to not require additional nutes to be added in waterings or is it assumed you will still need to supplement with regular feedings?
My inclination is to assume additional nutes will be needed, but I learned long ago never to assume. You know what they say about assuming. ![]() edit: I found the answer to this question in this thread Also, how long is a soiless mix good for after it has been mixed and 'cooked'? Again I would assume it to be usable for years but then I am ignorant to any real facts so thought I would defer to someone in the know. Again thanks much for all the help. While people say it is easy to grow weeds I can safely say it would not be possible for me without great places of information such as this.
Last edited by Linenoise; 08-06-2007 at 08:06 AM.. |
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#122 |
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So how do I measure parts by?
Gallons or % or cups??? LC’s Soiless Mix #1: 5 parts Canadian Spaghnam Peat or Coir or Pro-Moss 3 parts perlite 2 parts wormcastings or mushroom compost or home made compost Powdered dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix. Also for the food source is this good for both flowering and vegging? RECIPE #1 If you want to use organic nutes like blood, bone and kelp... Dry Ferts: 1 tablespoon blood meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix 2 tablespoons bone meal per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of soil mix 1-tablespoon kelp meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix or Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract as directed 1 tablespoon per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of Jersey Greensand to supplement the K (potasium) in the Kelp Meal and seaweed extract. Mix all the dry ferts into the soiless mix well and wet it, but don't soak it with Liquid Karma and water @ 1 tbs./gal. Stir and mix it a few times a week for a week or two so the bacteria can get oxygen and break down the bone meal and make it available. And don't let the mix dry out, keep it moist and add water as needed. It'll also have time to get the humic acids in the Liquid Karma going and the dolomite lime will be better able to adjust the pH of a peat based mixture too. |
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#123 | |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 212
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Quote:
'parts' can be any measure, so long as it is consistent throughout the entire recipe. So in short a part can be gallons, liters, quarts, cups, teaspoons, or whatever you need it to be, depending on your needs. |
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#124 |
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How many weeks should I wait to trans plant into the nuted soil?
I'm going with sweet tooth seeds, purple ice seeds, and juicy fruit seeds so far. I might buy some seeds but I'm just kinda nervous about it. Also would it be bad to add earth worms to the soil? Last edited by TheOneWill; 08-07-2007 at 04:49 AM.. |
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#125 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,162
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i also am using LC's SOILLESS MIX #1, complete with nutes added, exactly as shown by theonewill (above). It has been percolating for a month now, so i am sure it is ready . my question is ... since this mix is already loaded up with nutrients, will it be too strong to put germinated seeds into ? if so, what should i use to get them started ?
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The Germinator Last edited by green_grow; 08-12-2007 at 06:06 PM.. |
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#126 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 86
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Awesome thread BurnOne!! If you use organic soil, the microherd will automatically buffer anything that you put in the soil? I have been using Fox Farms Grow Big and Big Bloom with their ocean mix soil. I saw that some one wrote that this isn't entirely organic..how is that? My last questions is that when you are using synthetic nutes..does your pH start fluctuating b/c the lack of a bioherd?
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#127 | |
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No damn given.
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 2,714
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Quote:
Burn1
__________________
It's 4:20 somewhere. Time to Burn1. Bullshit! There's no need to flush organics. -Bongaloid pH meter? We don't need no stinking pH meter!
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#128 | |
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No damn given.
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 2,714
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Quote:
Burn1
__________________
It's 4:20 somewhere. Time to Burn1. Bullshit! There's no need to flush organics. -Bongaloid pH meter? We don't need no stinking pH meter!
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#129 |
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# Diddy
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: THE BAY
Posts: 361
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Nice thread fellas. Learning a lot and i'm just skimming thru. I got a feeling i'm gonna be re-reading this for a while
__________________
"My goodness... you're blushing" |
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#130 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Hey everyone!!
Better late than never I guess. I am going to try real hard to make this an "organic" grow. Yes I used Promix, but so what. I could have, and did on my first grow, use a generic potting mix. Result will be the same. I see people asking about "parts" and what to use for measuring. As Suby and BurnOne have said, "it really doesn't matter as long as you're consistent".(paraphrasing them). If you're kinda anal like me, this may help you. 1 cubic foot is about 7.5 gallons,,, and there are 4 quarts to the gallon. Some EWC bags may be sized in quarts. Soil comes in various size bags, often labeled in cubic feet. Folgers Coffee cans(size sold at Costco, 54oz I think) are exactly one gallon ( I measured it) for those of us who like doing things this way ![]() Obli |
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