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| Forums > Marijuana Growing > Growing in Coco Coir > Pot of Gold, Pineapple Punch, Sensi Star, Cindy, Now a grow log with pics! | ||
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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Pot of Gold, Pineapple Punch, Sensi Star, Cindy, Now a grow log with pics!
Hi,
Great Forum! I am also growing in Coco Coir, handwatering. This is my second grow. Maybe you can help me with a problem? My Major Problem now is figuring out which plants are what strain. I know that there are 2 pinneapple punch plants, two pot of golds, and one sensi star and one cindy 99. The plants are over 3 weeks into flower, and some of them are supposed to finish in 55 days, others could take up to 70 so figureing out which plants to start flushing in a few weeks and which plants to feed could be a problem. Should I just look at different leaves under a microscope and see which has the most "mature" resins, to try and figure out which plants need to be harvested earlier? Also, how long do you flush in coco? Pics from about 3 weeks in flower, now they are 4+ Last edited by MedicinalHerb; 01-31-2007 at 12:16 AM.. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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some more info...
I am growing in Coco Coir, mixed to about 35% perlite and 10% Hydroton (I would like to bring this amount up next time). For nutes I am using GH's FloraNova two part system: Grow and Bloom. In addition to these nutes I add between 1-2 teaspoons of Calmag Plus. During the flowering stage I also add Carbo Blast, "Bud Start" and Ton O' Bud", part of the Trio-Pack. I ph the water/nutes to 5.5-6. Has anyone used these nutes? I am still burning the crap out of my girls on occasion. The biggest pest problem I have had is Fungus Gnats, they are everywhere and seem to do just fine in Coco. Fly paper along with a fan blowing under the cannopy along the soil has helped keep things under control along with some fly paper and no pest strips. Since I am 4 weeks into flower, I am not going to do any more treatments with safer or neam oil. Overall I am impressed with the visble resin production. All of the plants seem to have a healthy frosting on the buds for being only 3 weeks into flower. 2 of the plants are in 5 gallon pots, the rest are in 2 gallon. |
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#3 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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my friend you will be able to tell when its almost finished...hairs will start dieing
(turning red) it will start to look kinda fuzzy...get your self a handheld microscope to no when to harvest exactly |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SF Bay
Posts: 42
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very nice grow
Very nice grow Herb!
Sorry to hear you forgot to label your plants. I'm growing out some sensi star. Mine are very uniform, almost a christmas tree shape. It looks sort of like your in the back row, far right, but I could be wrong. They also seem a little short and quicker to finish than some recent grows. Why would you want to increase the hydroton or perlite? I'm using hydroton only as the bottom layer in my pots and then 100% coco. I'm curious. Thanks! |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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looking good so far man. it just looks incredibly dry to me, lol. but i suppose you have been treating them like earth? so you should keep doing the same thing, but when you water give them a lot, so the coco gets a good soaking.
you are exactly at the point where the lockout has just begun, the red stems and burned tips, as well as the dry looking coco, makes me think that one thorough watering with just ph'ed water and cannazym might do a lot of good to keep those plants on track. if you are using the canna nutes, which are mostly water-soluble, with many ingredients in gel-ate form, you can get away with a very short flush. if i'm not sure when a strain is done i'll wait till the first of the trichome heads start going amber before i start flushing. first i will pump a whole tank of plain ph ed water through the system, throwing away the return. this normally makes my return ec go to below 0.9 at this point i refill the tank with another 3 days worth of water add some zym and ph correct it and then leave it to be drip fed to the plants normally for the last 3 days. then i will chop them down and trim them up. i have found with coco it's a waste of time flushing for more then 7 days and with my system of a big flush in one go, i can reduce it to 4 days. you don't want the plants starving for too long, just enough time for the N to be used up and for all the plants own smell and taste to develop. i know plenty folks that don't flush their coco, but their bud is never as tasty as mine. the most important thing about flushing, is that you don't start too early. the last weeks in the plants life can be very important yield and quality wise, so one has to be sure not to cut that time short by starting the flush before you see some of the trichome heads going amber. that's in the ideal case. if you are in a hurry to harvest you can start flushing and force the plants to finnish up early. but thats definitely not ideal. the added benefit is that i can plant my new plants in RW cubes right on the old coco and the medium is nice and empty ready to start a fresh. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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The big problem with not labeling the girls is of partiuclar importance because of the wide difference in recomended flowering times
pp 75 days 8-10 weeks ss 56-63 PoG 60-65 cd 50-55 Thanks for the help everyone! fonda: I want more hydroton so that I can put a layer over the top of the coco, the top does dry out quickly even when some moisture is heald in the rest of the coco. Right now the hydroton is just a small thin layer on the bottom. gaius: Thanks for the detailed information. I water by hand once a day (sometimes every other day if I get busy or lazy) I use about a gallon per feeding, the plants are in a total of 18 gallons of coco. These pics are a week old. Since then I flushed, and then started feeding with weaker nutes. I had been using ph up since the strong mix of nutes was too acidic. However, I think the contiuned presance of ph up evetually leads to a build up of salt in the soil, by cutting back on the nutes i was able to hit a good ph without the additives. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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Updated pics set up
So these are pics of the garden about 1.5 weeks older. Starting with the setup... you can see its a tight space, too tight to really grow efficiently with a 600 watt hps, its about 3 feet by 1.5 feet. I also have to physically move the plants out of the grow space to water them. That might cause some stress.
I threw in a few floros for side lighting. The hps bulb is 22 inches from the top of the canopy. This may be a little too much distance but my exhaust fan hasn't been great. I also have a small 6inch blowing below the canopy and a large fan blowing along the top. Temps are around 50-80. This is too big a fluxuation but thats about the best we can do right now. Generally the high temp doesn't get above 78. |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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now for show and tell... although I know little to tell about the girls
up first This girl has nice long buds, without much dense leaf. Its really responded well to lsting, with a relatively even canopy and great tops. Somewhat sweet aroma. I am excited about the resin production As you can see there are alot of ugly leaves towards the bottom. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 41
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So, I wanted to experiment with different pot sizes and see how it impacted growth and yield. 2 of the girls were put in 5 gallon pots, the others in 2 gallon. This is one of the 5 gallon girls. This has really showed me what you can do with LSTing and a large pot. There is a medicinal limit of 6 plants in flower in my area, so while i would prefer doing a straight sea of green, it seems like you can still get a large yield off of few plants with proper training. I am sure my results would have been better with a screen and a bigger grow space.
Slightly sweet/slightly skunky oder. Sucked up all the N it could get. Nice resin production |
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