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Old 12-13-2006, 09:08 AM #1
Rare Groove
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Indian Swamp Gungi Grow Method - From OG

Hey there. I recently ran across a copy of this technique that I had printed out back when OG was running. I haven't seen it posted here and definitely think it may benefit a few. I'm very interested to know if anyone's had success with this method (and pics for us???) because I'm going to try and pull it off with a couple plants next summer. I had great luck growing container plants in a swamp in the past, seems the water's loaded with great stuff and made for some DANK buds. Only problem was everything else growing in there liked the water as well so light exposure became an issue.

Anyway, this method was originally posted on OG by HighTHCV4me. Since it is a printed copy that I'm retyping, I lost the pics that went with it. There was a diagram showing how to cut & install the pipe and another diagram showing the different materials available at different levels in the pipe. The descriptions are great though so you should be able to get the gist. Enjoy.

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hey now...here is the swamp gungi (pronounced gun'gee) grow method passed down from many generations in my family, which trace back to the delaware indian. the indians used to use hollowed out trees instead of PVC pipe, but they were amazed by the increase in size and amount of hemp they could make using this method, not to mention how it intensified their peace pipe smoke sessions.. it's been a family secret but i know my pop told at least one of his friends and his friend told one of his, and the dumb asses left the PVC pipe in the water, which compromised the stealthiness of the method in my area..but thats only in the creeks, not the swamps..i could care less if everyone grew with this method. but clean up after your damn selves and don't ruin it for others.

1) this method can be used in any fresh water lake, swamp land, or river. it is great to use because who the hell walks back in swamps and tributaries, or hard to access areas of lakes, by boat. super stealthy ninja growers, thats who.

2) i know there are quite a few outdoor growers that know some great spots, and it's always too damn wet to grow in that prime location.

3) you can only plant one plant in each pipe, but any half witted grower knows not to plant in bunches anyways, so you should sex the plants first.

4) while starting and sexing the plants, find your location and bring some type of depth measuring tool that is long and rigid. i use a long pole, like they use in venice italy.

5) once you find your location jam your pole into the marshy mud or into the water, through the sediment till you hit clay, rock, or very hard dirt.

6) measure the depth, you should map your areas, and record your depths.

7) now you are ready to cut your PVC pipes to size. i use either an 8" or 10" diameter, not sure of the schedule number, but at least 1/8" to 1/4" thickness.

8) cut to length according to the depths on your map, i.e. area A = 5 feet plus the extra foot above the highest point that the water level could reach, subtract 6 inches so you are not totally through the sediment to allow for seepage.

9) if your PVC is not black paint it a camo color, or, black, brown, or dark green. don't paint the whole thing, just the top two feet or so, as to leave room to label where that pipe goes.

10) now you are ready for the real work, driving them bitches in. i use a square piece of plywood, bigger than the pipe, of course, and use a big ass hammer w/ a lot of surface area as not to punch through the plywood. if you hammer where the center of the pipe is, thats where you will punch through. if all you have is a regular hammer, then hammer where the edge of the PVC touches the plywood, and hammer around the perimeter of the pipe.

11) next, you may say damn, there is a bunch of water in the damn pipe, that's where displacement comes into play :wink: cap off another PVC pipe that is an inch or two smaller in diameter, cap end first, plunge it to the bottom once or twice...there will still be some water in the bottom but its all good...the water will slowly seep up to feed your plants.

12) well since your out there, i hope you brought your fishing pole and some good carp or catfish bait actually any fish will do, i use two or three pounds of fish per pipe. dependant on your depth to the bottom, you will want your fish 3 feet from the top of the pvc, so bring your measuring tape or stich and your favorite soil mix..backfill to where your fish should be, throw in the fish, and backfill to about the depth of the container you will have your plants in. usually i do this 3 weeks before i plan on transplanting to the pipes.

13) now it should be about time to sex them gungies, once sexed, i save a male to keep my strong pure lineage, by pollinating a few choice buds on each plant. i say on each plant because you never know, something could happen to the one or two you pollinate...in my situation, we had seeds over 80 generations old, and didn't pollinate enough, only got about 8 seeds, 3 females grew and something or someone killed the only male we had, so we had to crossbreed with a skunk strain, thats why i can only call them 18th generation seeds, anyways you don't need to pollinate, if you don't want to, but if you grow outdoor every year, it's nice to have a plant adapt to your climate and the yield and potency increases each generation.

14) ok..time to plant, when you go back to the pipes, there may be some rain water in there, bring your plunger and displace the water out, and drop those girls in. make sure you don't water them for about a week before you plant..there will be plenty in the moist soil in the pipe.

that's it...set it!! and forget it!! until harvest time. you will never have to water or feed the plants, and animals cant get to em, but bugs can..use your neem oil or what have you. but you will not compromise your spot by having to feed or water them, the fish and the sediment are perfect for each stage of the grow..plenty of nitrogen in the fish, and the sediment is perfect for the flower stage..so it's better to go shallow than deep. swamp is perfect... perfect depth, and a lot easier than lakeside..river bank is also a prime spot.

edit: i was shown this method, not explained how it works. this is the schematics i came up with. systematically, the freshly planted (thirsty) plants quickly suck up the water out of that first foot of soil into the feeding zone(fish), it will veg very well at this stage, the roots continue down to meet up with the water seeping in the bottom, into the sediment (or not with deep water), this will be about the time it goes into flower. throughout the flower stage it will feed off of the fish and sedimentary nutes carried up by the water(depths more than 4 feet from the top of the pvc to the sediment level may not reach the sediment by the time it turns to flower, it's not as good, but some sediment nutes will be delivered by the water coming up through it). the plant will always have an easily attainable water source.

for off shore plots only!!
A) if driven too deep into the sediment, it will have no seepage.
B) if not driven far enough into the sediment, the roots may not reach the feeding zone.

for swamps and marshes only!! very shallow
A) you want your fish 2 feet from the top of your pipe, if the top of your sediment is less than 2 feet, compensate by raising the pipe further above the water level, by adding extra length to the pipe.
B) swamps have a higher yield also, i don't know why, but from what i have seen. (my strain averages 12 feet tall in swamps, and a little under 10 feet in lakes or rivers)

sound like a lot of work?? wait till you see the yield
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Old 12-13-2006, 11:16 AM #2
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Good find! I think about folks from OG growing in pipes stuck in ponds all the time, it intrigues me, wish I had more wetland around where I live. Thanks for this!
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Old 12-13-2006, 11:39 AM #3
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I definitely remember coming across this thread on OG, seems like right before it went down. It's a very interesting idea, and I'm curious to see if anyone here has tried it yet. Thanks for posting, Rare Groove.

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Old 12-14-2006, 01:25 AM #4
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I remmber reading this too, thanks
I hav a lot of area's near by to try, i will see about using the plans if so i will show on here but i cant promise.
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Old 12-14-2006, 03:17 AM #5
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Does this look anything like it? I tried to do my best to interpret the instructions.
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Old 12-14-2006, 06:47 AM #6
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I don't get how the fish come into play and I don't understand what is to stop water from drowning your plants.

wouldn't the water just rise up to the normal level and drown the plants? or if its capped off to prevent water from coming up than you still have to water every day and I don't see the point of growing them in the water to begin with then.

if its just for stealth it seems unrealistic. if you got so many plants stealth is that big of a concern than you couldn't pound all those pipes. and if you only got a few plants why go out to the swamp all the time?
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Old 12-14-2006, 07:25 AM #7
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The fish are used as fertilizer, the trick is to place them at the right depth, so the plants roots reach it at the best point of development.

The idea is to drive your planter the right depth into the mud/sediment bottom of the swamp/pond/stream that you are using. If placed correctly, the water flow into the planter through its bottom will be slowed to a slow seep.

I'm going to try and find a location I can try a few of these this year.
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Old 12-14-2006, 07:42 AM #8
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Thanks for the comments, folks. I'd have to agree that the pipe depth is probably the most crucial part of this method. If you set it right, you'll have a nice trickle of water up through your soil to the roots. If the pipe isn't too long and the strain is vigorous, the roots should grow down through the pipe and into the sediment below the water. As for the fish, call it natural time release. If set up properly, I think this method could definitely mean low or no maintenance for super remote grows.

BACKCOUNTRY Awesome diagram man. I'd say it definitely sums up this concept well. And those buds are looking pretty frosty too!

I've been sitting here squinting at the thumbnails of the original diagrams on this printout... I tried to recreate the one showing the different soil elements. Maybe clear things up a bit more.

Take care,
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Old 12-14-2006, 07:47 AM #9
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i always wanted to try this on when i came across the thread on OG and now i really want to give it a try. 10-12 foot plants? Im in
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:16 AM #10
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OK, I see what I misunderstood in the directions. The bottom of the open pipe is postioned 6 inches above the harder layer of soil below the looser/softer layer of sediment, not simply 6 inches blow the surface of the sediment layer.

I like this idea alot, I can see its merits.
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