Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast - Growroom Lighting - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

northcoastmed · 11-08-2006, 12:15 AM

Note: This DIY project is an edited conglomeration of several OG posts. Majority of the credit goes to Flyer. Remember Safety First!

Switchable HPS/MH Ballasts:

These ballasts allow the use of both HPS and MH bulbs. They operate by simply switching the HPS igniter out of the circuit. Generally, the switchable ballast consists of an HPS ballast with a switchable igniter. When an HPS bulb is used, the igniter is switched into the circuit. When an MH bulb is used, the igniter is switched off or out of the circuit. Although switchable ballast technology is simple, the user should exercise extreme caution because of the different voltages that HPS and MH bulbs operate on.

Safety First:

I do not recommend the use of simple, home-brewed and simple switchable ballasts that only take the HPS igniter out of circuit when in MH mode. Some readers may have the inclination to “make” switchable ballasts using a 1,000 watt HPS ballast core. Remember, HPS and MH bulbs have different operating voltages and electrical characteristics, this makes them incompatible with the idea of a simple switchable ballast. On certain occasions the MH bulbs have been known to rupture and explode. Although you may know someone who has successfully deployed simple switchable 1,000-watt ballast, the stress that this system places on the MH bulb can cause rapid breakdown, bulb integrity failure and fire. If you must use a single ballast for powering both MH and HPS bulbs, choose an HPS ballast with HPS main lights (Bloom/Flower) and purchase a few MH conversion bulbs to cover your vegetative cycle. Additionally with the new CFL and HPS balanced spectrum technology, there is a reduced requirement for MH lights if the vegetative cycle is short, i.e. in sea-of-green applications.

1. When you plug it back in to test it do it outside in an open area and have a way to cut power to it as well as a fire extinguisher handy. MH and HPS bulbs (in this case MH since we are converting from HPS to MH) CAN blow and CAN start a fire, even when brand new or in perfect working order.

2. Point the light away from you when you turn it on, that way if it blows you are not going to get hit with anything.

3. After you have the light on and working, run it for about an hour and listen to it. If the light or ballast starts making a buzzing sound shut it off, something is wrong and the buzzing is the transformer having problems.

Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast
============================== ==============

Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results.

HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light.

This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following:

1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer)
2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4)
3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional)
4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire

-----------------------------
Details:

In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module.

Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing.

If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect.

There are two ways to do this:

1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads.

2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast.

Option 1:
1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it.
2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts.
3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this.
4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter.

You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from.

Option 2:
1. Unplug the light!
2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster.
3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. ** NOTE ** Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring.
4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch.
5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection.
6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires.
7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch.
8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together.
9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection.
10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead.

You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast.

**Pics to follow in the next couple of weeks once the ballast kits arrive and I get some time some time to complete the project.**

Enjoy!

NC

stevr59 · 11-08-2006, 05:38 PM

does this work with a 150watts hps encolight i dont think mine has a bal in mine

northcoastmed · 11-09-2006, 05:17 AM

The ballast in the fixture you have is a NPF Reactor Ballast. This only works with auto regulator aka autotransformer ballasts. As far as I know auto regulator ballast start at 250w and go up.

NC

raging_pit · 02-04-2007, 12:49 AM

as far as repeating the same process with the x2 lead, do you reconnect via the same switch as with the x1 lead, or is another switch necessary for the x2 lead as well as the x1? I'm assuming that a "dual poled" switch has the capability of switching 2 wires? Or is there another reason for the dual poled?

rastagrass · 11-12-2007, 06:10 AM

northcoastmed do you know if you canadd an igniter to a mh ballast to make it run a hps bulb of the same wattage or is it impossible?if you can do you know how?

11-12-2007, 08:48 AM

To the last question -NO!

And although the intent of this thread is to help others keep costs down, I think it stupid to do this type of modification and do not recomend it. Get a bulb to match the ballast or the other way around. End of story. No body should risk life or limb to grow ganja. just my honest opinion though.

simpleword · 11-28-2007, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azeotrope

To the last question -NO!

And although the intent of this thread is to help others keep costs down, I think it stupid to do this type of modification and do not recomend it. Get a bulb to match the ballast or the other way around. End of story. No body should risk life or limb to grow ganja. just my honest opinion though.

If done properly, what is the risk of doing this?

stihgnobevoli · 01-30-2008, 07:42 PM

wheres the pics?

FRIENDinDEED · 05-07-2008, 06:50 AM

i have two 400hps and at most i can use the hps but thats it and would need the mh if i could get my handds on it. but to just think that a 400MH is literaly 30 minutes away then hell, im game, gonna get eh instructions and see whats what.

i have a multi-tap ballast though. i think that its wired teh same way or better yet diagramed/labeled the same way as far as the "X1LAMP, X2COM and X3" .

but although things are different, shouldnt a schematic be able to be followed in order to make this modification? the labels may be different but wouldnt a teh wires be teh same? isnt the ballast, cap, ignitor (hps) OR ballast, cap (mh) the same for all MH's and HPS's? (dont know if theres a differece for those digital deals)

well either way ill give it a whirl and see whats what. if the only difference is an ignitor between both ballasts then its worht giving it a shot. hooking it up to a 6 strip with surge protector for safety shoould be an added measure of precaution. ill take pics and see. i think i vaguely remmeber something like this on OG where the guy did teh conversion on his living room floor and there was carpet.

anyway, will get back to you soon.

EDIT: dont they make switchable ballasts for retail? an dif so why cant it be done DIY?

Balance · 05-07-2008, 07:06 PM

400 watt HPS (s51) and
400 watt MH (M59,H33,M131,M135,M153,M154,M 155)

Bulb (Ansi Ballast Code)

They make several ballasts for MH, only 1 for hps @ 400 watts. Each of these ballasts will have a different voltage output.

The only PROPER way to do this? Buy the ballast thats stamped on your bulb. Otherwise, buy more fire extinguishers. peace

11-08-2006, 05:38 PM	#2
stevr59 Think for your self Qustion Authority Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: cant remember Posts: 685	does this work with a 150watts hps encolight i dont think mine has a bal in mine __________________ e-conlight NGB Mirco box Run Linux off a live cd 150 watt club GROW ROOM LOG BY VBSPARKY Jethro Bodean School of komputer teknalowgee class of 1998 Linux Operating System-Ubuntu-6.10 Heres to you Mirco Sux We Wont Forget POMH
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11-12-2007, 06:10 AM	#5
rastagrass Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: louisiana aka hell Posts: 57	northcoastmed do you know if you canadd an igniter to a mh ballast to make it run a hps bulb of the same wattage or is it impossible?if you can do you know how? __________________ peace to all and to all a good high
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05-07-2008, 06:50 AM	#9
FRIENDinDEED A FRIEND WITH WEED IS A . . . Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: uh . . . damn where am i again? sorry, too high, cant remember Posts: 2,034	i have two 400hps and at most i can use the hps but thats it and would need the mh if i could get my handds on it. but to just think that a 400MH is literaly 30 minutes away then hell, im game, gonna get eh instructions and see whats what. i have a multi-tap ballast though. i think that its wired teh same way or better yet diagramed/labeled the same way as far as the "X1LAMP, X2COM and X3" . but although things are different, shouldnt a schematic be able to be followed in order to make this modification? the labels may be different but wouldnt a teh wires be teh same? isnt the ballast, cap, ignitor (hps) OR ballast, cap (mh) the same for all MH's and HPS's? (dont know if theres a differece for those digital deals) well either way ill give it a whirl and see whats what. if the only difference is an ignitor between both ballasts then its worht giving it a shot. hooking it up to a 6 strip with surge protector for safety shoould be an added measure of precaution. ill take pics and see. i think i vaguely remmeber something like this on OG where the guy did teh conversion on his living room floor and there was carpet. anyway, will get back to you soon. EDIT: dont they make switchable ballasts for retail? an dif so why cant it be done DIY? __________________ FRIENDinDEED's HOUSE vlog target update: 5/2/2015 FLOWER SETUP -RIG:12x2gl DWC bucket sites/4" airstones/ dual output pumps/5" net cups/ hydroton:lavarock mix -LIGHT: DUAL 400MH/HPS side by side MOM SETUP -RIG: 3x5gl container sites/4" airstones/ dual output pumps/5.5" net cups/ hydroton:lavarock mix -LIGHT: 6x4' T8's CLONES/CUTS -RIG: 12-15x 5.5" net cups directly in water/ water pump for circulation/4" airstone for aeration -LIGHT: 4x4' T8's + 70hps MISCELLANEOUS -MEDIUM: HYDROTON/LAVA ROCK -NUTES: currently researching -NET CUPS: 5.5" for mom+flower *ROTATION CONCEPT/PLAN: once plants root and reach about afoot tall theyre transfered from cuts space directly into flower space Last edited by FRIENDinDEED; 05-07-2008 at 07:15 AM..*
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11-08-2006, 12:15 AM	#1
northcoastmed Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 56	Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast Note: This DIY project is an edited conglomeration of several OG posts. Majority of the credit goes to Flyer. Remember Safety First! Switchable HPS/MH Ballasts: These ballasts allow the use of both HPS and MH bulbs. They operate by simply switching the HPS igniter out of the circuit. Generally, the switchable ballast consists of an HPS ballast with a switchable igniter. When an HPS bulb is used, the igniter is switched into the circuit. When an MH bulb is used, the igniter is switched off or out of the circuit. Although switchable ballast technology is simple, the user should exercise extreme caution because of the different voltages that HPS and MH bulbs operate on. Safety First: I do not recommend the use of simple, home-brewed and simple switchable ballasts that only take the HPS igniter out of circuit when in MH mode. Some readers may have the inclination to “make” switchable ballasts using a 1,000 watt HPS ballast core. Remember, HPS and MH bulbs have different operating voltages and electrical characteristics, this makes them incompatible with the idea of a simple switchable ballast. On certain occasions the MH bulbs have been known to rupture and explode. Although you may know someone who has successfully deployed simple switchable 1,000-watt ballast, the stress that this system places on the MH bulb can cause rapid breakdown, bulb integrity failure and fire. If you must use a single ballast for powering both MH and HPS bulbs, choose an HPS ballast with HPS main lights (Bloom/Flower) and purchase a few MH conversion bulbs to cover your vegetative cycle. Additionally with the new CFL and HPS balanced spectrum technology, there is a reduced requirement for MH lights if the vegetative cycle is short, i.e. in sea-of-green applications. 1. When you plug it back in to test it do it outside in an open area and have a way to cut power to it as well as a fire extinguisher handy. MH and HPS bulbs (in this case MH since we are converting from HPS to MH) CAN blow and CAN start a fire, even when brand new or in perfect working order. 2. Point the light away from you when you turn it on, that way if it blows you are not going to get hit with anything. 3. After you have the light on and working, run it for about an hour and listen to it. If the light or ballast starts making a buzzing sound shut it off, something is wrong and the buzzing is the transformer having problems. Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast ============================== ============== Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results. HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light. This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following: 1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer) 2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4) 3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional) 4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire ----------------------------- Details: In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module. Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing. If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect. There are two ways to do this: 1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads. 2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast. Option 1: 1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it. 2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts. 3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this. 4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter. You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from. Option 2: 1. Unplug the light! 2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster. 3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. NOTE Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring. 4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch. 5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection. 6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires. 7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch. 8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together. 9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection. 10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead. You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast. Pics to follow in the next couple of weeks once the ballast kits arrive and I get some time some time to complete the project. Enjoy! NC
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11-09-2006, 05:17 AM	#3
northcoastmed Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 56	The ballast in the fixture you have is a NPF Reactor Ballast. This only works with auto regulator aka autotransformer ballasts. As far as I know auto regulator ballast start at 250w and go up. NC
	Quote

02-04-2007, 12:49 AM	#4
raging_pit New Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 8	as far as repeating the same process with the x2 lead, do you reconnect via the same switch as with the x1 lead, or is another switch necessary for the x2 lead as well as the x1? I'm assuming that a "dual poled" switch has the capability of switching 2 wires? Or is there another reason for the dual poled?
	Quote

11-12-2007, 08:48 AM	#6
Guest Guest Posts: n/a	To the last question -NO! And although the intent of this thread is to help others keep costs down, I think it stupid to do this type of modification and do not recomend it. Get a bulb to match the ballast or the other way around. End of story. No body should risk life or limb to grow ganja. just my honest opinion though.
	Quote

01-30-2008, 07:42 PM	#8
stihgnobevoli Banned Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 5,734	wheres the pics?
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05-07-2008, 07:06 PM	#10
Balance Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 148	400 watt HPS (s51) and 400 watt MH (M59,H33,M131,M135,M153,M154,M 155) Bulb (Ansi Ballast Code) They make several ballasts for MH, only 1 for hps @ 400 watts. Each of these ballasts will have a different voltage output. The only PROPER way to do this? Buy the ballast thats stamped on your bulb. Otherwise, buy more fire extinguishers. peace
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