[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Hello ... All .. I need you to take a look at my Girls. Me my girls are BI- and it would be a shame to wasted our crime. We do each others to the colors are rainbow.... OOOO,, BUt my girls are made at the way I must have Touched them. And We need some help.. JUst A little. SO Call to all those Guru. COuld you help PLease. MY other are caught up doing other things... That why am here on the form. Say Hello here and there like a Swisha Sweet. Oh It fells so good.. BUt here is the Stats to the room.

The PLants were veg 4 weeks in a 5g Bucket then placed into another 5g Bucket Onced they reached 2 1/2 feet to 3 feet

Stats to Room

3,000Wattss P.L AIr Cool on Sun Tiwist 355
20 K-Buckets
SoakerHOse

2nd Week of Flowering
G.H FLora Nova and all GH Additves
Nutes 1000PPM
Co2 1500ppm

The Room Day Temp 85F The Room Night Temp 70F
The Day HUm 65% The Night Hum 70%


Now that you have a little info to go on. Here is the pic and the promblem.

PIC1

https://www.icmag.com/gallery/showpho...cat=500&page=1

PIC2
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/showpho...cat=500&page=1

Pic3
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/showpho...sort=1&cat=500

Pic4
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/showpho...sort=1&cat=500
Pic5
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/showpho...sort=1&cat=500
Pic6
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/showpho...sort=1&cat=500



I have lite color new growth and it seems to be growing a little slower.. If you look it seem to be yellow and make a little downward horn.

I think it could be. Well Since this is a Forum. Let not just say short and none meanful answers. I mean... Guy's.. Let put reaL INFO OUT.... So here is my breakdown... I garther this info from Advance N. Here take a look..

Here is my first guess of 3M
Phosphorus, Magnesium< Potassium

Phosphorus
(P) (mobile in plant, immobile in soil)

Phosphorus deficiencies in cannabis will show up in older growth first, with the leaf tips possibly curling downwards. When phosphorus is deficient, slow and spindly reduced growth will be noticed. Leaf damage is usually patches that are dull dark green to bluish green, in severe cases older leaf and petioles turn reddish purple caused by accumulations of anthocyanin. Younger leaves may be yellowish green with purplish veins when nitrogen is also deficient, and darker green veins when phosphorus is deficient. Necrotic (dead areas) spots occur on the leaves margins in the advanced stages. Leaf tips can look burnt as well. Phosphorus deficiency is most common when ph is above 7 or below 5.5. Phosphorus will bind with soil very easily. Excess phosphorus could cause micro nutrient deficiencies in zinc and iron.

Cannabis uses phosphorus: For photosynthesis, respiration, storing carbohydrates, cell division also is involved in energy transport (ATP, ADP), nucleic acids, enzymes and phospholipids that are important for membrane structure. Phosphorus helps build strong roots is vital for seed and flower production. The highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. However that does not mean that cannabis is a phosphorus hog. It is not. It consumes more potassium and nitrogen and magnesium than phosphorus. It doesl use more phosphorus in flowering than in its vegetative (growth) stage. Excess phosphorus can cause a decrease in the uptake of zinc, iron and copper which will start a chain reaction of other macro and micro nutrient deficiencies. Cold temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit or 12 degrees Celsius will have a negative affect on phosphorus uptake

2 WOuld be
Potassium

Potassium deficiencies in cannabis will show first in older leaves, with yellowing , singed or scorching of leaf margins with small necrotic (dead) areas (they can start small and grow big), stems can become brittle with withering leaf tips. Growth slows down especially in vegetative stage and slows growth of flowers in bloom with possible interveinal chlorosis starting at the base of the leaf. Older leaves may show red pigmentation and leaves could curl upwards. Excess potassium can cause deficiencies in calcium and magnesium uptake.

3 Would be
Magnesium
(Mg) (Mobile in plant, immobile in soil)

Deficiencies in cannabis will show first in older, lower leaves that start from the margin inwards. The mid rib and veins usually remain green while the margins are yellow or whitish, sometimes leaving a green arrowhead shape in the centre of the blade. Interveinal chlorotic mottling or marbling of the older leaves which proceeds toward the younger leaves as the deficiency becomes more severe with the possibility of leaf tips curling upwards. The chlorotic interveinal yellow patches usually occur toward the centre of the leaf with the margins being the last to turn yellow. In cannabis the interveinal yellow patches are followed by necrotic spots or patches and marginal scorching of the leaves and leaf drop in severe cases. Lack of magnesium will result in poor bud production and development. Excess magnesium will cause an imbalance of calcium and potassium which will reduce growth.

Cannabis uses magnesium: For production of chlorophyll formation (mg is the central ion in chlorophyll molecule) and therefore helps to give plants their green color. Mg in the cytoplasm is related to enzyme activation for food transport and sugar, fat and oil manufacture. Magnesium is important in cell multiplication and seed production. It is also and important co factor in the production of ATP, the compound which is the plants energy transfer tool, it also is a bridge between ATP and enzyme activity. Cannabis loves magnesium, it will consume more as flowering progresses towards harvest.


So what do you think ... CAn I get Help...

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Still Trying to get a hold of this PIc thing..

Any help..

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

Still NO help.. I think I need to send some PM.. OUt..
Peace...

[Fuzzy&Sauce BBG]

So I am going to leave. I will be back latewr Hopefully after 30 views you can help...

[King]

You lost me in the first paragraph.

Go to overgrow, look at the FAQ under defiencies and treat accordingly. There's pics showing what each defiency appears like.

[LiLMizzJazzy]

I was having probs with the pics, too... I suggest contacting an administrator if no one can give ya simple steps here!

~Jazzy T~

[freeda green]

Hi there fuzzy . . . I'm another female grower, and I wish I could be of more help, but I'm a bit of a newbie myself. The pics that you have look pretty sweet to me - they are some lovely ladies.

You say it is the new growth that is looking yellow, and from the pic the new growth looks like it is just a lighter shade of green. I'm not so sure that your ladies are in any real trouble, but you should definitely try to get the opinions of some more experienced growers.

From what I remember, once I hit flowering, the new growth did seem lighter green, and the old growth started seriously yellowing. By the time I hit the 4th week of flowering, the older fan leaves were yellowing and dropping like crazy! I will do my best to help you find the answer you are looking for, as I am also interested in the answer. I thought your plants looked really healthy though.

I do not know much about hydro setups, but there is a guy named Texas Kid on this site that does a lot of hydro, and could probably give much better advice than I . . . you might try sending him a pm. He helped me resolve some heat issues I was having, and seems like he's got his hydro shit together.

Anyhoo, I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help, but I didn't want ya to get discouraged because no one had posted back yet.

Peace,

Freeda Green

[Aquaman2112]

Well I hope more Ladies Grow, I will leave your thread with this:

Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver

Version 1.1 - Feb. 1998 - distribution okay


To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.


The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.

I wouldnt bitch too much about that crop!looks good.How ever i think your room temps are a bit high,which inturn would make your nute solution a tad bit on the warm side.

Na hello from another female grower

Wow that is a difficult read. You need to keep in mind a lot of us stoners cant read all that and remember what the question was (short term memory). But If you just switched over to flower I think the problem is temporary.

What is the PH of the setup?
How far is the Light from tops?
Have you done this setup & strain before?

The stretching may have used up certain nutes in abundance and may just need some replenishing like K. K is very important in flowering and in a recirculating system nutes need replenishing more often.

I dont grow Krusty style but most Hydro is similar.

Blatant