Pythium in my soil and hydro :(

Hey guys,

Over 20 years and never had plant AIDS before..

In my room I have soil on one side and hydro (clay balls) on the other.

Have been having real issues with sick seedings and because I've never seen this issue it's taken a while to get my head around what the problem is!

So after using a small amount of old soil in the current mix (although sieved and flushed) I have realised that Pythium is causing the problems.

After a bit of research I've picked up some OxyPlus 50% Hydrogen Peroxide and plan to drench all my media with the recommended 2ml to 10lt ratio.

I will dose with benificials a few days later and hopefully can control the issue to ride out the rest of this grow when I will then replace all of my media.

Tonight I will transfer the sick Hydro seedlings into soil and empty the res.

Before I go playing with this stuff or adding it to live plants can anyone comment on how they have successfully treated Pythium?

Ta in advance


6

yes i have. it got to me during week 4 to 5 of flower. out of 320 plants 40 were effected. buds were chunky and big but compare to healthy ones there were no resin or smell.

i flushed all the plants including the healthy ones next to it with heavy h202 flush. next day treated with benes. plants recovered about 80%. comapre to healthy ones it was slightly smaller and little less dense but still ended up with fat dank colas. 4 oz plants vs 3 oz plants if i have to give an average difference..

the ones that are going to help you most are Streptomyces griseoviridis and trichoderma harzianum and Trichoderma reesei.

I already had og biowar foliar and root, veg bloom Life, and vegan sauce . as long as they have those 3 strains any other root innoculant products are good... once thing i noticed tho was only Veg Bloom Life has all 3 strains of benes... new bottle might not list tricoderma hazianum but its in there 100%. i checked with the chemist from veg bloom and he told me they had to change the label cuz in CA trichodema hazinum is now considered bio fungicide.

I make teas with EWC, KELP, Molasses, fish hydrolysis and insect frass, alfafa meal, neem cake meal. 1 make 5 gallon teas and brew for 24 to 48 hours, then i take 4 gallons and put it into 50 to 80 gallon reservoir and run it thru drip irrigation. i refill the left over 1 gallon tea with 4 gallons with RO water and mollasses and brew for another 24 hours and repeat the same thing for good 3 to 4 days.. after 4 days i feel like tea starts to smell but my plants always seems to like day 3 and 4 teas the best... I know its alot of work but you are trying to build up your plant immunity thru use of fungi and you need to create a great environment them to thrive in your root zone by constantly feeding them benes so they keep the pythium away. pythium will always be there until you do complete bleach clean up.

Thanks for the reply topcolas and good to know there is hope for recovery!

I've done 2x drench, 2 days apart and been foliar feeding to keep some food up to them

It is my understanding that the h2o2 will burn off over a few days so I haven't dosed any bennies yet. Doing that tonight along with some food for them

So far so good, they have stalled a little bit but not showing any damages so hopefully it will be business as usual from here on and the Bennie's can keep it at bay!


6

Autos are the problem lol

h202 will be ok after 24 hours.

I've used Pre-Stop successfully for Fusarium Wilt that had features similar to Pythium.

But in treating fungus, I've found it necessary to treat not only the medium/plants, but scrub the room as well; Borax and bleach combination for the room scrub.. Pain in the ass..

And Pre-Stop isn't cheap, is mixed in larger amounts to H2O than Myco-Stop, Actinovate, etc. and is only (available/approved for retail sales) in a dozen or so states, the last I checked.

That said, if you're not in one of the approved states for Pre-Stop, if you know someone in a state that -is- approved, they can have it sent to them, and then send it on to you, via mail (or ???), triangulating the shipment.

I checked with Alaska's Dept of Environmental Conservation re. this process (as I'd already done it, and wanted to know what the ins and outs were) and they told me that as long as I wasn't using it commercially, and only on my own property, it was cool.

Thanks for the input!

I could have rage quit and dumped my grow and replaced media but wanted to see if I could fix this!

I guess the stuff is everywhere, just a matter of if it manages to take hold.

Food and benificials applied, fingers crossed the current plants and new seedlings for the hydro kick on like they should!


6

In your hydro system you can use PondZyme (sludge destroyer). I tried it and Im pretty sure it worked. It sure stopped it from spreading. also seen another positive thread.

Well the process I went through may not have fully worked.

Still seeing some gnats (Pythium carrier) but far less that before

Hopefully the actual Pythium which I believe was the issue rather than gnats has been knocked down sufficiently that the plants and new seedlings don not suffer further!

6

For the future try food grade hydrogen peroxide a lot cheaper for your money than OxyPlus

damn you should of said you had gnats.. microbe lift bti 1 mil per gallon for like a week straight. for soil, if you are feeding multiple feedings you gotta cut it down to until your pots are light and see plants show improvement. for clay balls i would cut down feeding half the time while adding microbr lift BTI and 1mil per gallon and lower feed to 1 ec or 500ppm max until you see imporvement. and whoever said clean your room with bleach is 100 right. once u have it u just gotta keep applying benes at least twice a week.