[Douglas.Curtis]

Mars Hydro, for giving away a few of your new TS-2000 lights! I'm currently running some EC-99's in one of your tents and am using the TSW-2000 to light it up.

These plants originally started flowering under a 1000w HPS. A bit of a waste of electricity, but the most convenient setup I had at the moment. In addition to winning a TSW-2000 light, I have recently been sent a Mars Hydro 27"x27" tent.

I decided to finish out the EC-99's with the new gear.
These photos were back on the 9th...



The light is super-bright for the 27"x27" tent, at slightly over 300w. As you can see it makes for great photography! Flower formation is decent so far, with some plants liking the environment better than others. I have 15+ years of hydro experience and very little soil, so bear with me. lol

[Douglas.Curtis]

Here's a few more recent photos... I believe I'm close to 20 days now? I did not write it down... lol

[Douglas.Curtis]

I've given them (what I would consider) plenty of magnesium, but they're still yellowing. Could I possibly be overwatering or do they really want a LOT more mag??

[rjrom90]

Seems to be a N (yellowing) and Ca (low leaf sheen) along with P (purple petioles) deficiency. Are you using R/O? If so try using tap water with 1 gram per gallon of amino acids to make the tap water calcium available and to supply some organic nitrogen. Maybe try 0.375 gram per gallon of mono-ammonium phosphate for phosphorous and a bit more nitrogen. As you mentioned that is quite a bit of light for that size of tent, especially in soil.

[Douglas.Curtis]

Thank you, appreciate the assistance.

I'm using r/o, so anything I add will be to the r/o. Not even remotely interested in using tap water, but appreciate the suggestion.

N, Ca and P sounds about right. Was told the LEDs would create a higher demand for mag and P, so not surprising. The temp requires more humidity, which explains some of the leaf stress. You're correct though, they could use more Ca.

[rjrom90]

I understand why you would not use tapwater. After changing my R/O filters the amount of buildup from a year of use was astounding. It was caked with a dark brown substance, probably rust and lead. To supplement the lack of calcium with R/O I've been using amino acid chelated calcium from customhydronutrients.com (Biomin or Albion Metalosate) or you could also try micronized calcium carbonate or calcium sulphate although they are not immediately bioavailable and it probably wouldn't do much at this point in the flower stage.

[Douglas.Curtis]

Greatly appreciate the advice.
They were even worse last night when I LST'd them. Fed them what I figured would help, with what I have available. heh We'll see. lol

Before Applying LST with paper clips and floral wire ties...


After Applying LST...


You can see how advanced the lower leaf yellowing is now, in just a few days. Still going to be some nice smoke, as long as I get the dang light dimmed soon. lol

[Mars Hydro Led]

TS series have dimming function, I recommend you to dim the light, Also pay attention to the temperature and humidity inside the tent

[Douglas.Curtis]

Thanks, I've been meaning to dim the light for over a week now. I'll see if I can remember to do it tonight. Humidity is too low for the warmer temps near lights off, but not too terrible. It's the intensity of the LED causing the majority of the issues. I'm guessing it's a simple flat blade screwdriver adjustment? (I know, under the rubber plugs on top of each ballast)

Appreciate it.

[HalfArsedFarmer]

I'm interested in this as the footprint this light claims to cover for the price 3'x3' for flowering at €230 is cheap as it gets.... Maybe too cheap..



I note they don't say IP65 rated though like the SP range do, might just be an error on the website.