[Trich_Tyson]

I wish it worked that way for me. This is just my experience.
And I am totally understanding of the idea that there is more than one way to skin this cat of ours. and what works for one cat might not work for another

[Absolem]

Hey Maimunji

I think your plants look good. Look at the leaves under the tops. They are full green. The leaves at the top are immature and still growing that's why they are a bit pale.


IMO most of the problems from coco come from transplanting wrong. Coco coir has a really good air porosity. However if coco coir gets to compacted problems will result. When coir comes out of the bag it's light and fluffy. This is how it should go into the new pot. Then when your water it will compact and bring the coco coir to the right bulk density for maximum air porosity. Don't tamp the coco coir down or shake the potting container to make it "settle".

IMO the coco bricks can be a bit tricky. When hydrating them the coco becomes fully saturated and transplanting into coco that is fully saturated will compact even more and starve the roots of oxygen. When I used the coco bricks I would hydrate then wait until the coco was at about the same moisture content as bag coco before transplanting.

Cheers

[Trich_Tyson]

Originally Posted by Absolem

Hey Maimunji

I think your plants look good. Look at the leaves under the tops. They are full green. The leaves at the top are immature and still growing that's why they are a bit pale.


IMO most of the problems from coco come from transplanting wrong. Coco coir has a really good air porosity. However if coco coir gets to compacted problems will result. When coir comes out of the bag it's light and fluffy. This is how it should go into the new pot. Then when your water it will compact and bring the coco coir to the right bulk density for maximum air porosity. Don't tamp the coco coir down or shake the potting container to make it "settle".

IMO the coco bricks can be a bit tricky. When hydrating them the coco becomes fully saturated and transplanting into coco that is fully saturated will compact even more and starve the roots of oxygen. When I used the coco bricks I would hydrate then wait until the coco was at about the same moisture content as bag coco before transplanting.

Cheers

I share the sentiment. I potted up about 40 plants yesterday.. and nailed it but it took work.
I flushed my coco brick (canna - they say you don't have to, but i did)
recharged it, then squeezed as much moisture out as i could, then refluffed it, and potted. There was still enough moisture so i didn't need to water stuff in. Today, they are dry enough (still moist) to feed.

[chefsean]

I would run cl mg at a full dose all the time it cant hurt . Coco absorbs a large amount of calcium and releases it slowly. I ran the h&g for a very long time with r.o. water and 5 ml of calmg. Maybe bump up the feede slowly to see what happens.

[maimunji]

Originally Posted by beta

I'm gonna say it again - Stop letting your plants dry out and your problems will go away. Coco should -always always always- be wet, if you see dry coco (even on the surface) you aren't watering nearly frequently enough.

I don't want to ignore your advice and will put clone under mh and will start watering every day to see is this is my issues.

[maimunji]

Originally Posted by Mikell

New growth can look pale, especially at lights on.

I suggested removing the epsom to increase the amount of base nutrient.

I will drop epsom and will up basic nutes. I can't see there is nothing changes even after dupm epsom to 100 ppm.

[maimunji]

Originally Posted by Absolem

Hey Maimunji

I think your plants look good. Look at the leaves under the tops. They are full green. The leaves at the top are immature and still growing that's why they are a bit pale.


IMO most of the problems from coco come from transplanting wrong. Coco coir has a really good air porosity. However if coco coir gets to compacted problems will result. When coir comes out of the bag it's light and fluffy. This is how it should go into the new pot. Then when your water it will compact and bring the coco coir to the right bulk density for maximum air porosity. Don't tamp the coco coir down or shake the potting container to make it "settle".

IMO the coco bricks can be a bit tricky. When hydrating them the coco becomes fully saturated and transplanting into coco that is fully saturated will compact even more and starve the roots of oxygen. When I used the coco bricks I would hydrate then wait until the coco was at about the same moisture content as bag coco before transplanting.

Cheers

Hi Absolem many thanks. I lear this hard way when I switch from soil to coco.

[maimunji]

Originally Posted by Trich_Tyson

I share the sentiment. I potted up about 40 plants yesterday.. and nailed it but it took work.
I flushed my coco brick (canna - they say you don't have to, but i did)
recharged it, then squeezed as much moisture out as i could, then refluffed it, and potted. There was still enough moisture so i didn't need to water stuff in. Today, they are dry enough (still moist) to feed.

This is exactly what I do when transplant exept I use bagged canna coco and dont flush jush water squizze moisture refluff and transplant.

[maimunji]

Originally Posted by chefsean

I would run cl mg at a full dose all the time it cant hurt . Coco absorbs a large amount of calcium and releases it slowly. I ran the h&g for a very long time with r.o. water and 5 ml of calmg. Maybe bump up the feede slowly to see what happens.

I never have isuues with cal mag using h&g cocos. Full dose cal mag is 2 ml per litter 320 ppm 4-0-0. Loaded with nitrogen. Im really afraid from lockout this way.
I use tap water 150 ppm with full dose cal mag will be 450 ppm start water. How much a&b do you use per litter?

[maimunji]

Im not talk about new growth. I can see plants doesn't grow like I want. I talk more about eatablish leaves. Can someone see how purple is central leaves vein?
And how light green is veins between each blade just like magnesium def. Can you?