[queequeg152]

Originally Posted by queequeg152

i like to reccomend these because if you keep things reasonably sanitary you should not need to clean or replace the elements but once a few months maximum.

i meant MINIMUM btw.

these cartrige filters are pleated. the density of the pleating depends on which cartriges you buy. some are designed to be loaded with DE or zeolite, and some are designed to be run by themselves.

so yea, the filter material itself is much more restrictive than a screen per unit of area... but in a cartrige filter yo literally get like 50 square feet of area whereas the with a screen or disk filter( actually they are "strainers") you just get like double digit square inches typically.

the super large surface area means you get better filtration at a low pressure drop. the large area also means that with a low rate of fouling you can go months and months withotu replacing or cleaning it... the only problem with cartriges is algea fouling though. if they get coated in algea they might as well be made of seran wrap.

depending on the cartridge you can usually clean them though. trisodium phosphate and then an acid bath works well enough at first... just dont mix the two what so ever, and dont acid wash first...

i dont know the real issue, but supposedly acid washing algea directly oxidizes the algea cells and the debris becomes harder to remove. SUPPOSEDLY. idk exactly.

[Drop That Sound]

Ya 2" will be a good upgrade from 1 1/4" on my previous systems. I always would be reaching down in there and making sure, sometimes pulling a few feelers out. It will suck to have to lay on so I def wanna keep the plumbing off to the sides.

I actually feel more confident with a long 2" run before the filter because well, haven't seen too many 4 ft + long roots. Double the bulkheads would be nice too, I make them pretty cheap.

And for sure, was thinking of cutting a few 3-4 inch long clear tubes coupled in here and there, especially after the return bulkheads and before filter would be sweet. Thats around 2'' after the couplers are glued. They actually have up to 1 1/4" at home depot, 5 ft lengths, free ship to store.

Another benefit to a pump housing tote is I could run clear tubing in there, the 2 inch clear sites too.. If i pickup a matching 15 gal husky tote I could flush mount 2 of those waterways into the lid, and make a seperate access lid to get down into the pumps.

The cheapest I seen is 50$ for one but I think that is just the housing part, nothing else. I am sold on the idea though. As far as DIY I was thinking a larger diameter PVC or even a bucket. It's no more complex than the system I'm building really.. But yea I can salvage a few from old tubs.

In the meantime I might just run the 3/4's y's for a cycle until I can source out housings. Maybe even just one side of the room with dual strainers to start with. I just found out that the ones UC use have an 80 mesh, so I was thinking i could use a needle and poke some holes into the 200 mesh screens I got.

They would be inverted but all the systems I see are too, not ideal for backwashing out the cap really. Look at the 3-5k multi site alien systems, the use 1 little 3/4 strainer between every row on long runs.

But ya I was thinking I could shut down both systems, turn some extra valves, and use a separate little container with that old sureflow diagphram rv pump I got still to back wash them both at the same time. Not the main pumps.

Sounds like I won't be able to do that with the spa filters without a 3 horse lol. Seen some pretty nifty spa Filter cleaning contraptions on youtube...

[Drop That Sound]

I wouldn't mind building a housing round the walmart pool filters though. $24 for a 12 pack, or they carry 2 packs for 3.99 locally:




lol the housings are rediculous though. They even come coupled with pumps for like 50-60$. I wonder if any one has ran one..

[Drop That Sound]

Maybe I could just mount the filter to the inside of the last bulk head, inside the container. Cap the other end and just let the roots grow right around it (probably through it though). As low as possible for drainage of the system.

Well, basically thats what I wanted to do for a simple DIY filter, but in a different smaller bucket without plants. It would be bulky unless I could seal the lid. Smaller the better.

I think I have a plan that could work right now, with those filters. Low pro ones would be better.

I could make the plumbing go underneath it, use a smaller 90 inside of a larger Y, with a reverse bushing or something. Seems like no matter what the actual filter outlet will be around the same height as the top of the main manifolds.

[queequeg152]

Originally Posted by Drop That Sound

Ya 2" will be a good upgrade from 1 1/4" on my previous systems. I always would be reaching down in there and making sure, sometimes pulling a few feelers out. It will suck to have to lay on so I def wanna keep the plumbing off to the sides.

I actually feel more confident with a long 2" run before the filter because well, haven't seen too many 4 ft + long roots. Double the bulkheads would be nice too, I make them pretty cheap.

And for sure, was thinking of cutting a few 3-4 inch long clear tubes coupled in here and there, especially after the return bulkheads and before filter would be sweet. Thats around 2'' after the couplers are glued. They actually have up to 1 1/4" at home depot, 5 ft lengths, free ship to store.

Another benefit to a pump housing tote is I could run clear tubing in there, the 2 inch clear sites too.. If i pickup a matching 15 gal husky tote I could flush mount 2 of those waterways into the lid, and make a seperate access lid to get down into the pumps.

The cheapest I seen is 50$ for one but I think that is just the housing part, nothing else. I am sold on the idea though. As far as DIY I was thinking a larger diameter PVC or even a bucket. It's no more complex than the system I'm building really.. But yea I can salvage a few from old tubs.

In the meantime I might just run the 3/4's y's for a cycle until I can source out housings. Maybe even just one side of the room with dual strainers to start with. I just found out that the ones UC use have an 80 mesh, so I was thinking i could use a needle and poke some holes into the 200 mesh screens I got.

They would be inverted but all the systems I see are too, not ideal for backwashing out the cap really. Look at the 3-5k multi site alien systems, the use 1 little 3/4 strainer between every row on long runs.

But ya I was thinking I could shut down both systems, turn some extra valves, and use a separate little container with that old sureflow diagphram rv pump I got still to back wash them both at the same time. Not the main pumps.

Sounds like I won't be able to do that with the spa filters without a 3 horse lol. Seen some pretty nifty spa Filter cleaning contraptions on youtube...

no no. spa filters are TINY.

when i mentioned 3hp i was talking about backwashing MASSIVE sand and DE filters for large pools.

pool filters are literally like 24" by 60" tall with 48,64 or 80 square square feet of grid. to back wash those you need lots of flow.

these little ones though, are much less. i think the rule of thumb is like 5-10 GPM per square foot of cross section. again though this is for media filtration not straight up cartriges.

also remember that pool filter grids are hollow with the water flowing into them and out of the grid manifold on top or on bottom... so when you backwash the flow reverses and the grids literally expand out like a baloon sloughing off caked on DE or zeolite. a cartrige filter will NOT expand like that though, so backwashing will be less effective off the bat.

IDK if you really can even back wash a non de/zeolite cartrige though. it seems to me that the crud and particles are going to be seated into the filter media directly as opposed to being entrained in a layer of DE or zeolite or even sand.

im sure it helps, but there is no media on the cartrige so its probably not going to do much compared to media filtration.

this is the cartrige that i have btw. idk if they got more expensive, or if got a stupid good deal or something. i bought it new on ebay, so maby its the latter.

https://www.spaandpoolsource.com/wat...chwbypass.aspx

i thought these things were much cheaper, maby its not worth pursuing at 100 bucks... IDK.

your idea of using the shurflow pump to back wash would probably work on a small diameter strainer... but on a larger cartrige probably not, but who knows.

remember when you back wash, you need to fully reverse the flow inbetween each back wash.

back wash -rinse -back wash- rinse. repeat untill you dont see anything.

the rinse line needs to be tied into the backwash line so you would eventually need another valve on the return and rinse... or you can buy a jandy 3 way valve. i think they are like 18 bucks for a 1.5" and a bit more for 2".

its best to put a sight glass on the back was line so you can see when you are finished. in your case it might be hard to see little particulates and junk though. when you backwash a DE filter there is a storm of white DE poweder blowing past the sight glass... when the poweder is gone you repeat untill you see almost none.

try it out before you spend anything on valves though. i dont think backwashign is going to be a panacea in your case. interesting experiment though.

edit: btw, backwashing wastes quite alot of water. idk if you have done the math on this, but it sounds like you only have a few hundred gallons maximum.

[queequeg152]

Originally Posted by Drop That Sound

I wouldn't mind building a housing round the walmart pool filters though. $24 for a 12 pack, or they carry 2 packs for 3.99 locally:

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lol the housings are rediculous though. They even come coupled with pumps for like 50-60$. I wonder if any one has ran one..


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i dont know abything about that filter... but i bet you could scrap the pump inside that thing and just run the filter?

im guessing that pump is way to much for you.

idk about building your own. you would need gaskets and shit to seat and seal the cartriges.

maby you could turn some PVC pipe to the diameter of the inside of the cartrige though. then ram the pvc in and plug the top opening.

idk just spit balling, but thats probably how i would do it. at least then you would not need to hold the cartrige down against a seal.

[Drop That Sound]

Hmm.. for $29.95


Just relax in your pool, and let the Intex 330 GPH Filter Pump take care of the filtration. This cartridge filter pump is the best little work horse you'll find to keep your pool sparking clean.
This pump is hassle free, and easy to install- simply hook-up the hoses. Release the air trapped inside the filter chamber with the air release valve, and plug the pump in for fresh, clean, filtered pool water. Equipped with the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, which is an added safety feature that shuts off the pump if electrical current is exposed to water. Use with a maximum pool size of 1,018 gallons.

• Quick and easy installation - connect the hoses and plug the pump into a 110-120V power outlet
• Filters up to 330 gallons of water per hour
• Release the air trapped inside the filter chamber with the air release valve, and plug the pump in for fresh, clean, filtered pool water.
• Equipped with the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, an added safety feature that shuts off the pump if electrical current is exposed to water.
• Use with a maximum pool size of 1,018 gallons.
• This system has a flow rate of 300 gph and a pump flow rate of 330 gph.
• Compatible with the Type H filter cartridges, Intex part number 29007E (one included!)
• Part #: 28601EG
• Warranty: 1-year Intex Warranty

They also make a 530 GPH... I like the way the 1500+ ones are configured with the pump off to the side.



Suppose you could cut the power down to 25% to control the flow? Or use the extra head for waterfalls for your DO. Pump/Filter/Air all in one little inexpensive unit!





EDIT: Looks like easy access to the pump on the 330, I could cut it down and scrap the pump, or even move it off to the side if its a decent pump. $ 60 for 2 of those, and 2.00 filters would be cheap. I don't like any plumbing to be above the 2 inch mark but I could still work with it..

[Drop That Sound]

Yep just the shurflow for strainers, was thinking like 2-4 gallons max, one way and just enough to dislodge any big stuff from the screen. Honestly I shouldn't need to anyway but it would be nice. I will expirement for sure.



Another reason I want remote res on the new system is because I hate opening lids in there. Always get leaves dropping in, no matter where the res is. I would make little skimmers with a bottle and filter floss but thats a PITA. I feel better about having filters\strainers knowing I won't be dropping crap into the res all the time.






I think my best option to get the show on the road is to just oversize my pump house, for future upgrades. Spa\Pool filters in mind. Use whatever I can come up with soon.



All plumbing inside it will be clear as it will be light proof. Also the bulkheads will be sealed in case the pump ever leaked, but doubt that would be an issue. I could even ventilate it on a closed loop later if I want to run sealed, stuff the air pumps inside.



Going to make sure it will fit first.. BTW my flooring job got more complicated, repairing an old leak in the wall nearby, and re flooring the whole main work room too.







I got a new device so I can take pictures finally, be back soon with the good stuff!

[queequeg152]

it looks like you could just abandon the pump itself if you wanted to.

idk if you could actually remove it though without resorting to janky JB weld and other shit like that.

either way they look cheap as fuck. I would not use them personally... but who knows.

[Drop That Sound]

Update: will be plumbing soon and provide lots more pictures and details about the build.


Until then here are some pics of what i'm workin with..

You can see where I will be plumbing through the wall, through the splash and into the cabinet on the other side.

The floor will be waterproof as soon as I seal it up, my veg and other area's all the same