Stealth cab closetmaid 2 door - Page 4 - Micro Grows - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

MyNameIsMike · 01-21-2018, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonhova

The light leaks are pissing me off. Bike inner tube seems to work the best of anything I've tried. Ill get a big strip of that staple it to the top wood panel and be done with it.

Have you considered constructing a frame that would outline the front of your cab using a 1x2?

A 1x2 plank of wood is a few bucks which comes in I think 8ft? Running a peice along the top-front-inside of your cab, attached to the roof with either a few screws or glue. Your doors would close onto it creating a seal where light cannot leak through.

You can also use the same concept and measure out a 1x2 and attach it to the inside of one of your doors with glue. So when door#1is closed, door#2 will close and meet that middle divider and seal. Just like your cardboard thing you have going on but probably more durable. This would be a cleaner setup. If this makes sense, something to consider. If it doesn't, let me know and I'll try and illustrate it to give you a visual.

MyNameIsMike · 01-21-2018, 07:50 AM

Ugh, can't edit. Basically make a 1x2" lip. That may make more sense.

jonhova · 01-21-2018, 07:50 AM

That does make sense mike. Im gonna try the bike tire along the topnfirst since its free 99. If not ill probably have to resort to a frame like you suggest.

MyNameIsMike · 01-21-2018, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonhova

That does make sense mike. Im gonna try the bike tire along the topnfirst since its free 99. If not ill probably have to resort to a frame like you suggest.

Cool. I encountered a similar challenge and after several... several trips back n forth to Lowe's buying weather stripping, foam tubes, adhesive this adhesive that, I found a simple lip worked perfect. I'm subbed to see your progress. Sweet setup.

Drop That Sound · 01-21-2018, 09:39 AM

Even some cheap PVC inside corner mouldings would work for the lip. They are like $3-$4.00 for an 8'.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mo...8033/100058333

It cuts like butter with a sharp razor knife.

Make a simple frame with 45's on each end of the 4 pieces you cut. If your 45's aren't perfect don't worry, you'll seal it all up with a small bead of caulk anyway.

You could pin them in, but I would just drill a small pilot hole and use finish screws. Laminate particle board chips easy if ya hadn't noticed..

Then, you have a small lip to put a secondary seal on. If that doesn't work, like I said, just toss in a full sized panel up against the new lip. It could even be cardboard!

Round 2! Good luck

Drop That Sound · 01-21-2018, 10:01 AM

P.S. The panel idea is honestly the only way I really see it working.. without 6 trips back and forth to lowes lol.

The reason is because the way your doors are hinged, with 2 rods on each side, top and bottom. They aren't on the end of the door but probably an inch towards the center?

This causes the very left and right sides of both the doors to swing inside the cabinet more than the rest of the door.

If you make a lip, just be sure to leave a little bit of clearance for doors as they open, put it back a good 1/2 inch. Draw your lines for the frame on the cabinet first, to use as a guide for the frame to line up.

EDIT: Ok ok, i'm back again, so the inner tube really is a kick ass idea for sealing wonky door hinges like that.. too bad you dont' have a single door to deal with.

But anyway.. it would be kinda cool if you had more inner tube flaps, with little neodymium magnets glued on, that snap the flaps back to the doors (screws in the door for the magnets to lock on) when you shut em. Just another idea,

HuffnPufferfish · 01-21-2018, 06:52 PM

yeah u overthinking it, build a frame with weatherstriping and jobs done

jonhova · 01-23-2018, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuffnPufferfish

yeah u overthinking it, build a frame with weatherstriping and jobs done

Huffnpuff, athos, anyone! Lol

My ambient temp is 75 F and my cab is at 85 F with 8x9 watt bulbs 72 watts total.

I think that’s getting damn close to too hot. Would you go with 6 bulbs or buy a larger 120 mm higher static pressure fan? I do not have room for an inline :(

Or both?

I put northern lights by nirvana fem in sone coco 2 days ago we will see whats up.

Athos · 01-23-2018, 06:19 PM

The problem is not your current CFM, but your ambient temperatures that are too high. On the other hand 85°F (29°C) is not that high, I get those temperatures 1 month a year (January actually), the only thing that will happen is that your plants will drink more water.

If you try to get your temperatures at, lets say 76°F, your CFM needed will sky rocket to over 200, which might give you other problems like wind burn.

That ambient temperature is your usual ambient temperature or just this time of the year?

Before changing anything I would try moving your grow box to other cooler parts of the house like: the basement, a bathroom, any room that doesn't receive direct sunlight.

The other more expensive way is to cool you ambient temperatures.

jonhova · 01-23-2018, 06:31 PM

This is winter time lol. I had an older cab and that cab got to 95-100 in summer.

Is itpossible to have the cab maybe 5 degrees F max over ambient?

My house is one story and it needs to be cooled where it is. Im thinking about getting the fan you recommended before. The nf-f12 pwm 55 cfm 22.4 DB FAN.

In summer i can run the ac during the day. Doing so now is a waste.

01-21-2018, 07:50 AM	#32
MyNameIsMike Newbie Join Date: Jan 2018 Posts: 29	Ugh, can't edit. Basically make a 1x2" lip. That may make more sense.
	Quote 1 members found this post helpful.

01-21-2018, 09:39 AM	#35
Drop That Sound Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Services Disabled Posts: 501	Even some cheap PVC inside corner mouldings would work for the lip. They are like $3-$4.00 for an 8'. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mo...8033/100058333 It cuts like butter with a sharp razor knife. Make a simple frame with 45's on each end of the 4 pieces you cut. If your 45's aren't perfect don't worry, you'll seal it all up with a small bead of caulk anyway. You could pin them in, but I would just drill a small pilot hole and use finish screws. Laminate particle board chips easy if ya hadn't noticed.. Then, you have a small lip to put a secondary seal on. If that doesn't work, like I said, just toss in a full sized panel up against the new lip. It could even be cardboard! Round 2! Good luck
	Quote 1 members found this post helpful.

01-21-2018, 10:01 AM	#36
Drop That Sound Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Services Disabled Posts: 501	P.S. The panel idea is honestly the only way I really see it working.. without 6 trips back and forth to lowes lol. The reason is because the way your doors are hinged, with 2 rods on each side, top and bottom. They aren't on the end of the door but probably an inch towards the center? This causes the very left and right sides of both the doors to swing inside the cabinet more than the rest of the door. If you make a lip, just be sure to leave a little bit of clearance for doors as they open, put it back a good 1/2 inch. Draw your lines for the frame on the cabinet first, to use as a guide for the frame to line up. EDIT: Ok ok, i'm back again, so the inner tube really is a kick ass idea for sealing wonky door hinges like that.. too bad you dont' have a single door to deal with. But anyway.. it would be kinda cool if you had more inner tube flaps, with little neodymium magnets glued on, that snap the flaps back to the doors (screws in the door for the magnets to lock on) when you shut em. Just another idea, Last edited by Drop That Sound; 01-21-2018 at 10:15 AM..
	Quote 2 members found this post helpful.

01-21-2018, 06:52 PM	#37
HuffnPufferfish Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: under the sea Posts: 756	yeah u overthinking it, build a frame with weatherstriping and jobs done __________________ watching grass grow
	Quote 2 members found this post helpful.

01-21-2018, 07:50 AM	#33
jonhova Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Posts: 303	That does make sense mike. Im gonna try the bike tire along the topnfirst since its free 99. If not ill probably have to resort to a frame like you suggest.
	Quote

01-23-2018, 06:19 PM	#39
Athos Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 167	The problem is not your current CFM, but your ambient temperatures that are too high. On the other hand 85°F (29°C) is not that high, I get those temperatures 1 month a year (January actually), the only thing that will happen is that your plants will drink more water. If you try to get your temperatures at, lets say 76°F, your CFM needed will sky rocket to over 200, which might give you other problems like wind burn. That ambient temperature is your usual ambient temperature or just this time of the year? Before changing anything I would try moving your grow box to other cooler parts of the house like: the basement, a bathroom, any room that doesn't receive direct sunlight. The other more expensive way is to cool you ambient temperatures.
	Quote

01-23-2018, 06:31 PM	#40
jonhova Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Posts: 303	This is winter time lol. I had an older cab and that cab got to 95-100 in summer. Is itpossible to have the cab maybe 5 degrees F max over ambient? My house is one story and it needs to be cooled where it is. Im thinking about getting the fan you recommended before. The nf-f12 pwm 55 cfm 22.4 DB FAN. In summer i can run the ac during the day. Doing so now is a waste.
	Quote