[Michael49]

Originally Posted by Ready4

Your problem looks like it has gone away, your newer growth is healthy and green.
Those older damaged leaves all need to be removed, once in that condition they will never improve and just take away energy from the plant. When you cut away all those crappy leaves, your plants will look just fine. Don't overfert and add a little calmag in a couple weeks from now.

Thanks for your input, the new growth always seems to look good, but then the mature fan leaves start keep dying :(.

Originally Posted by slownickel

Sure looks like a phosphorus deficiency...

Anyone else agree with this assessment?

Originally Posted by geneva_sativa

Something I found with a closed room at night is that high humidity during lights out can make temps stay much lower than they should be.

I remember a case when night temps in a closed room would always be 5-8 degrees colder than rest of rooms in house. . . put a dehumidifier in during lights out, and viola, temps jumped up above 70 degrees.

That's interesting.

My humidity during lights on is very low (25%) because its so damn cold outside here!! - but at night once my lights and exhaust fan go off the humidity rises to like 70% inside the tent.

I toyed with the idea of leaving my exhaust fan on during lights off to keep the humidity lower but I was worried that would only drop temps even more - what do you think? During lights off my tent has very little ventilation.

[Michael49]

Originally Posted by slownickel

The give away on a P deficiency on this leaf is the fact that the strong chlorosis does not obey the veins. Phosphorus is the only element that will do this. Most everything is margins, interveinal, etc. I would also bet you would see a big response to some micronutrients like Mn for example. Again, do one branch and watch what happens.

A good one to confirm positive response is to test petioles, after washing of course, with a refractometer. If the plant got a response, the brix will increase, in about 24 hours or so.

Also, if the P response shows up, that branch will start praying heavy.

Experiment my friends!

Thanks!!

[Ready4]

Also vegging in that size pot, for as long as you did ( 6 weeks), could have serious problems with very rootbound plants, possibly causing nutrient problems.
Blueberry & crosses I have done were sensitive to N, but really loved Calmag.
No matter what you add, it will take time for any effect to show.
Best of luck !

[geneva_sativa]

Might be worth a try. . . especially if you have one of those $10.00 digital thermometers that can tell you the low and high temps during last 24 hours, so you can know what temps are doing during lights out.

[Wendull C.]

Listen to slow, the reason the new growth looks good and the lower fans are showing the deficiency is you are dealing with mobile nutrients in the deficiency. The plant eill rob the lower growth of nutes to feed the growing tips. Just a bro science thing but i would foliar feed them with insta green or foliage pro while upping the phosphorus like slow said. That guy is a soil wizard. What he says is gospel to me and the books he recomends are top notch. I just wish i was further than skimming pages when im bored.

[Wendull C.]

Originally Posted by slownickel

The give away on a P deficiency on this leaf is the fact that the strong chlorosis does not obey the veins. Phosphorus is the only element that will do this. Most everything is margins, interveinal, etc. I would also bet you would see a big response to some micronutrients like Mn for example. Again, do one branch and watch what happens.

A good one to confirm positive response is to test petioles, after washing of course, with a refractometer. If the plant got a response, the brix will increase, in about 24 hours or so.

Also, if the P response shows up, that branch will start praying heavy.

Experiment my friends!

Bam! SOIL WIZARD! Bettet hope the real farmers dont come around too quick. Put all us bro science guys out in the cold, lol.

[Michael49]

Originally Posted by Wendull C.

Listen to slow, the reason the new growth looks good and the lower fans are showing the deficiency is you are dealing with mobile nutrients in the deficiency. The plant eill rob the lower growth of nutes to feed the growing tips. Just a bro science thing but i would foliar feed them with insta green or foliage pro while upping the phosphorus like slow said. That guy is a soil wizard. What he says is gospel to me and the books he recomends are top notch. I just wish i was further than skimming pages when im bored.

Thanks!!

[Michael49]

Originally Posted by Ready4

Also vegging in that size pot, for as long as you did ( 6 weeks), could have serious problems with very rootbound plants, possibly causing nutrient problems......

Anyone think I should do anything for the roots, like some Hydroguard or do you think my roots are likely to be OK?

[slownickel]

Originally Posted by Michael49

Anyone think I should do anything for the roots, like some Hydroguard or do you think my roots are likely to be OK?

If you think they are potbound, some gypsum is probably in order. The first limitation will be calcium and when calcium is deficient, everything else can go deficient as a result.

[RB56]

Originally Posted by geneva_sativa

Something I found with a closed room at night is that high humidity during lights out can make temps stay much lower than they should be.

I remember a case when night temps in a closed room would always be 5-8 degrees colder than rest of rooms in house. . . put a dehumidifier in during lights out, and viola, temps jumped up above 70 degrees.

Dehumidifiers produce heat.