[Granger2]

Yes, pH. -granger

[idiit]

I don't think Raid Flea Killer Plus is an answer for everyone. there are other ways to kill root aphids. There is tremendous cognitive bias against the Raid brand. from my study of Raid Flea Killer Plus it is simply organic and synthetic pyrethrins with a propellant for aerosol application. ppl think poison when they see the Raid brand and probably deservedly so based on their other products.


Synthetic and organic pyrethrins coupled with heavy diaotameceous earth on dried out organic soil is effective. I constantly check my pots and have found one or two root aphids in the last couple of days in one potted plant but +9/10 potted plants are now clear. these were heavily infested with root aphids. after the plant is culled and if I find even one root aphid I spray the rootball with RFK+ again, let the root ball sit in the container to dry out. then check the root ball again to ensure the one or two surviving root aphids died and then store the dry root ball broken up in buckets liberally sprinkled with DE.


I store any dry soil that doesn't have a plant in it (potted) in buckets liberally sprinkled with DE.


Cognitive bias ( again, probably deservedly so based on Raid's other products) has kept the cannabis community from using RFK+. PPl can get synthetic and organic pyrethrins and DE without using RFK+. this combination of synthetic and organic pyrethrins coupled with DE correctly applied does work. that's the point I was trying to make. I don't care if ppl want to hate RFK+. we just need something that works.


cognitive bias: https://www.zerohedge.com/news/2017-...ne-infographic


synthetic and organic pyrethrins coupled with DE has worked for me. it doesn't matter where you source the necessary ingredients. I use water ph corrected to 6 in recycled organic soil. this method needs an established root ball for the plant to survive the treatment.

[Raho]

Originally Posted by headees

Did some reading about the riptide cure.

I am in coco, does this work as well as in soil? What is the best way of not frying my plants when I use it?

Would much rather not use imid if I didn't have to.

thanks for the heads up

Riptide is a cure for root aphids like a bullet in the brain cures cancer.
Just use the acephate part of the combo "cure" and skip the riptide.
I like idiit's comments on pyrethrins

[paper thorn]

imid - bayer fruit and veggy or similar keeps bugs from feeding on the plant, takes 2 - 4 weeks to distribute through plant - use once
bifen - ortho home defense kills young and adults till the imid works, spray or root drench
nylar maybe to stop young from maturing
spreader sticker - a surfactant

[DocTim420]

Research the half life of the imid (which has systemic properties). Hint, it is not measured in hours, days or weeks.

[paper thorn]

the point of imid is that it is systemic. keeps the whitefies, etc from being able to feed on the plant.
in veggies, it can be used up to 2-4 weeks before harvest.
here in AZ, whiteflies can hardly be controlled without it. much resistance.

i have some plants that the whiteflies and root aphids are back on after 8 weeks of bloom. tells me that the Imid is pretty much gone now. At 10 weeks now, the whiteflies are getting rambunctious again.

but i'm all for using sm90 to get rid of them, if it would work.

[paper thorn]

OK guys, I've been working on an IPM program for my grow.

I have been terrorized by root aphids and whiteflies.

These critters have been making me long for the days of fungus gnats, lol.
Or even spider mites and thrips.

The Borg were easy, Thrips were tough till i got Spinosad.

I know some folks don't like Imid use, but there is no other effective control for whiteflies.

All clones and seedlings get a shot of Imid (i use dominion) at about a week or two after planting. Seedlings when they get where they can be watered normally, usually after the stem hardens a bit.

Also a shot of Bifen. Bifenthrin I/T. about a 7% concentrate.

I use maybe a teaspoon (5ml) a gallon of each. I mix it right into a gallon of Nutrient Solution.

The Imid will make it impossible for the Whiteflies to feed on the plants but takes a weeks or two to distribute through the plant. The Bifen is an effective adulticide, but neither the Bifen nor the Imid will kill eggs or Young, well they might, but not effectively enough, the root aphids will be back just as bad in a few days after their eggs hatch.

Enter Nylar. Spendy at 20 bucks for 4 ounces. that's 4 gallons worth.
Nylar was the turning point for me. It is an Insect Growth Regulator. It keeps egss and nymphs from being able to reach adulthood. No adults, no new eggs.

So Bifen for the immediate kill. Imid to innoculate the plant from future attacks, and Nylar to break the life cycle of the bastards.

I reapply Bifen a week or two after the first time.

Imid should be a one time use in early veg. I like to give it plenty of time before bloom. It can be used right after flipping, but I would not uses it then unless it is a long blooming strain. I've use it on my Cheese during the stretch, and by the time it's done the Whiteflies are back. Hopefully the Nylar stops them.

Mixed in nutes I use my death to bugs cocktail as a root drench. But mixed in water they may be sprayed on leaves so you can wipe soak the whitefy eggs on the bottoms of leaves.

As my whitefly infested girls in bloom get chopped, the next ones coming will have been treated with Nylar so the Whiteflies should be gone by the time they get to the bloom room.

The root aphids are easy, because you just drench the roots, the leaves top and bottom of leaves sucks.

So far no root aphids have been seen in treated pots.

I use coco, and have not been reusing my coco because of all the bugs, now I can save a little money on coco again.

I do also use Montery Spinosad for thrips.

I like to spray Physan 20 on surfaces after washing them. Especially on cloners, trays, etc and let it dry on it.

I would love to hear any better IPM strategies anyone has.