[headees]

I believe I have these guys. Couldnt figure out what was going on, half way through flower on last run things started looking bad. Like a severe deficiency, or nute burn. This time around sort of the same. First half of flower looked fine, and then they started looking off, and stopped taking up water, or putting on size, and 1/4 of them have slowly starting wilting and are dead.

So I pulled one up and checked the roots and sure enough I see what I believe is a root aphid. It is red in color, unlike the white ones Ive seen in pics. No flying ones that I have seen either.

Question is there any way to salvage the veg room and clones I have left?
Can I treat the clones I have, which are only a week old and in cups? Really would like to save those.
The moms I was thinking of taking more clones off of and tossing, along with all the Coco and pots I have.

What is the best thing to treat them with? I am not opposed to using a big gun on this issue. Had broad mites in the past and Avid/Forbid was the only thing that worked.

I already use OG Biowar, have not been treating as frequently lately though.

I am going to do more research, but wanted to start this thread just to get some feedback.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[Halfton]

Bayer tree and shrub will kill them . They make two kinds one for ornamentals and one for citrus trees I believe . The only difference is the concentration of imid (the active ingredient) . It's nasty stuff , kills bees if you use it outside . Imid was at one time the most widely used pesticide in the world even in food crops .

[greeenman707]

I would use either root cleaner, or plant therapy at 10 mls per gallonas soil drench

[DocTim420]

Investigate the half-life in imid, especially in soil. Then remember it is "half-life", not zero residual.

[headees]

Thanks for the reply's guys.
Dont want to do it but getting Imid and Acephate. Dont want to mess around, want these gone. Never seen them before and never want to see them again.

Also got Root cleaner, which Ive heard only pisses them off. But that and caps should get me through the last few weeks til harvest.

[Granger2]

You don't need the imid to kill the bastards. The Acephate and pyrethrin is all you need. Mfgr says imid kills for a year, so what makes you think its safe to use at any stage in a 3-5 month plant. Plus, it's systemic. Good luck. -granger

[headees]

Originally Posted by Granger2

You don't need the imid to kill the bastards. The Acephate and pyrethrin is all you need. Mfgr says imid kills for a year, so what makes you think its safe to use at any stage in a 3-5 month plant. Plus, it's systemic. Good luck. -granger

Did some reading about the riptide cure.

I am in coco, does this work as well as in soil? What is the best way of not frying my plants when I use it?

Would much rather not use imid if I didn't have to.

thanks for the heads up

[Granger2]

Research pH as relates to app of Acephate/Riptide in coco. That info is in the sticky
"Fungus Gnats or Winged Root Aphids."

[idiit]

i had a bad infestation of root aphids. i successfully killed them using organic pyrethrins, synthetic pyrethrins and diatomaceous earth in recycled organic soil. it took several treatments. unlike spider mites which I've easily killed a few times the root aphid eggs could lie dormant. i used the diatomaceous earth on the unused soil (after letting it dry out). edited

Originally Posted by idiit

I got root aphids in some newly purchased soil and I treated it with organic and synthetic pyrethrins. the treatment seems to have killed the bugs but also severely stunted my oger kush females including root balls. things are recovering nicely and i'll post when I get thru flower.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....ds#post8038134



the reason i say i was successful is that i haven't seen any root aphids ( or any other bugs in my soil) for a couple of months now.


i did not lose any plants. all my plants were torn up between the root aphids and the treatment and it took months to recover.


now here's where the howls may begin; the source of organic and synthetic pyrethrins was Raid Flea Killer Plus. i upended the pots, removed the root ball and sprayed the outside of the root ball and the inside of the pot. i also sprayed on the outside pot undersides ( i would sometimes see several root aphids try to escape the spray through drainage holes to the outside of the container) and i did room sprays (aerial).


I was the only person posting how Raid Flea Killer Plus kills spider mites easily and effectively without losing important clone moms. now, i'm the only person that's posting that Raid Flea Killer Plus effectively killed a heavy root aphid infestation. I've been successfully using Raid Flea Killer Plus for 25 years.

[headees]

Originally Posted by Granger2

Research pH as relates to app of Acephate/Riptide in coco. That info is in the sticky
"Fungus Gnats or Winged Root Aphids."

Read through a lot of the thread, from what I gathered, make sure the ph is right. Water with full strength nutes until plenty of runoff after the dunk and keep the lights high and the burn will be minimal.
Anything you can add would be great.

The plants I'm treating are clones in cups. Small rootballs. Would imagine They would be more vulnearable to getting burned. So want to take any measures to cause the least amount of damage I can while still taking out the aphids.

Thanks