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Old 08-25-2017, 10:50 PM #1
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1000w coco headstyle pre-grow setup

Hi there ICmag. Long time.

I have had real life stuff come up and have been away for a while. I am planning a smallish grow to get back in the swing of things.

Beans: to start - Biker Kush V2.0 - Karma Genetics
on order - Ghost Train Haze #1 - Rare Dankness

Setup - 1000w in a tent - A/C garage room
- 6/9 in tap water
- will use a combo of all the info I have read over the years on
the coco forum stickies (head, trees, etc.)

Question: Looking to add cookies and gg#4 to my pack stable. Any
suggestions on a US based source for beans? I found
DankTeam today. Not sure if they are the dudes to beat
though....

Posting pics of progress with the hopes that you all can steer me away from any potential pitfalls. Not my first rodeo, but I love to learn.
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:46 AM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad View Post
OK guys... time for an update... been running the GH in coco for a bit now, and have made a couple of slight changes...

I'm now running the 6 and 9 ratio up to the first third of 12/12, then 6 and 12 for 1 week, then just 9ml/gal bloom with no micro up until the last three weeks, which are just distilled water...

I'm sacrificing some of the yield for an improvement in the flavor and burn of the final product...
Just throwing some quotes in here that are golden that I want to reference easily.
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:49 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad
I use 6ml/gallon GH flora micro and
9ml/gallon GH flora Bloom

1/2 strength for seedlings and freshly rooted clones

Full strength from the beginning of Veg until they begin bud formation
then

9ml/gallon GH flora bloom up until 2 weeks prior to harvest

Then plain water to finish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad View Post
is pretty much the regimen I've settled into...
I'm running the 6/9 until the production of new calyx begins to slow... a couple of weeks into flower production on faster flowering strains, a bit longer for 70+ day flowerers... Some of the heavier finishers get the extra 3 ml/gal of bloom that last week... then 0/9 up until flush time...

I have been trying minor variations... upping the bloom during veg gave a bit of Mg/Ca lockout... Leaving out the micro too early looses bud mass... Leaving the micro in too long makes flushing more difficult... Not flushing long enough affects the quality of the flavor and burn... Watering with no runoff at all causes lockout and flushing issues late in flower... Watering with more than a tiny bit of runoff is a waste of nute, and environmentally irresponsible...

No matter what variations I've tried, I seem to end up right back just about where I am now...
More gold
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:52 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad View Post
You can drop the micro when stretch has completely stopped, and calyx production seems at it's peak... roughly 1/2 way through flowering depending on strain...
....
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:53 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad View Post
seedlings generally do not need to be fed for the first 10 to 14 days.
.
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:57 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad View Post
Here is a detail of how i recommend transplanting into solo cups for coco:

1. only use cuts which have begun to grow roots. by this i mean that the cut is actually growing roots, not merely having bumps that will be roots. usually I wait until i see more than one root emerging from the rw cube. if cloning in coco i transplant as soon as I see the cut growing again. when cloning in coco i water cuts often too.

2. hydrate your coco with 1/2 str 6/9. coco should be wet, but not so wet that water drips out when you pick up a handful.

3. loosely fill the cup with coco up to the level where the bottom of the cube will rest. set the cube in. loosely fill in around the cube to the level of the top of the cube. gently drop the cup once from about 1.5 inches high to tamp the coco.

4. 24 hours later begin watering daily, by pouring a small stream of diluted 6/9 nutrient solution directly into the rw cube until nutrient just begins to run out of the cup holes.

5. transplant again in a couple of weeks.
.
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Old 08-26-2017, 01:59 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grat3fulh3ad View Post
I usually go from solo cups to 1 gals to 3 gals... Flowering is in 3 gals...
.
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:04 AM #8
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Quote:
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Alternating internodes is the most easily recognizable sign that a plant is sexually mature and ready to flower.
.
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:21 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJM View Post
thank man..using a flotec intellipump..one pumps waters all 12 lights..it feeds 1/2 inch pvc piping that loops around the middle row of plants in a rectangle to maintain even pressure..i have 15 1/2 ts hooked to 12" pvc risers, with a 4 point manifold on each riser..each manifold feeds 4 - 1/4 inch lines..each plant is fed by 2 of these 1/4 inch lines..i use no sprayers or halos or drippers...just the 1/4 inch line with open end hooked to to drip stake..hope that helps
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:29 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJM View Post
thanks

when I run 6/9 I never drop micro...I run them both till flush, then flush for 2 weeks...I never understood the whole drop micro thing...yes, you are cutting out nitrogen early to allow the leaves to fade easier and leach plants of nitrogen, sure..but what about the phosphorous, potassium, mag, cal and all the other elements in the bloom? do those not need to be leached and flushed out in the same manner? just because youre leaves are yellow and VISUALLY look flushed, that doesn't mean all elements have been leached from the plant, only that N has....p, k, mg , ca ect that is in the bloom need to be leached just as well, but their is no visual reference to know when they have been, like with N...people think just because youre leaves yellow when cutting micro early, the plants are flushed and leached, when they are only really leached of N, but still have all the elements in bloom that wont be leached out as much unless you cut them both at the same time

many will disagree, to each their own..but when my plants are yellowed off after flush, I know ALL elements have been leached from my plants, not just nitrogen, while they are still chocked full of k, p, mg, ca ect from running the bloom longer than the micro...if you tested nutrient levels of their plants after flush, id guarantee these cut micro early folks would have no nitrogen in their plants, but still have everything else...ive done both, cutting them both at the same time with a good long flush gives you the best quality product with 6/9..and I stand by that statement
Conflicting with above info from Head. Interesting.
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