[Siskiyou]

This is an excellent discussion. Thanks for starting this up Bmac1.

[ReikoX]

I just now made the switch to no-till organics. This is a very interesting discussion.

[stewart169]

Originally Posted by growingcrazy

Dank: If you have a grower that knows how to read plants and add back to the soil very slowly only what that plants have used(never happens), testing isn't as important.

It is impossible to know the soil balance without a test. Period. If you add back that 1/2 cup of amendments every couple rounds your setting yourself up for failure eventually.

You use the test as a scale in your own little micro-universe. Use the numbers, round after round, to know what levels you started at and what the nutrient draw down was. The numbers are just a scale for your observation.

Kind of like building an engine without precision measuring equipment, ie calipers, mics etc. You may get it to run, but for how long and at what % of optimum performance...

Amendments last a lot longer in the bag waiting to be mixed than in the soil being made available and then washed out the bottom of the container.

I look at testing soil as a security blanket of sorts. I have only a few grows with moderate success and the soil Im getting ready to use is a new batch thats been sitting for about 6 months with worms in it.
I have no other people I know or trust that grow to ask opinions from in person. Im grateful for this place and a couple other resources online. With testing I can at least see if there is a glaring problem and try to correct it and learn from it.

[Boyd Crowder]

im using coots mix from buildasoil, and initially its too hot, takes around 3 rounds to get it in the sweet spot
i dont test soil, and my research coincides with dankfrank. the life in the soil is whats important, and its what breaks down the ingredients as needed into usable nutes

im not aboive using a little bottle of this or that when something says i need a lil more of something

fish sauce, protekt or sulpomag if its needs individual attention
but i havent reamended anything yet , i just add more ewc each time i no till into 10 gallon flowering pots

[Bmac1]

I picked up a couple bags of promix hp yesterday. They were as expensive as a whole bail but much more discrete and then i also do not have to concern myself with where to put the half bail.

I should be able to get the mix together this weekend and get it cooking for a couple weeks.

[KIS]

Probably too late for this mix, but wanted to caution folks to go light on Sul-Po-Mag or K-Mag. It's very high in Mg and K. The K is probably fine but the Mg can be a problem. Most container media like this have good levels of Mg already. I choose not to use it based on the soil testing I've done with my mixes, but if you did want to use it I would start at like an 1/8th of a cup per cubic ft to be safe and limit other Mg sources.

You can get the K and the Sulfur from other sources.

[Boyd Crowder]

Originally Posted by KIS

Probably too late for this mix, but wanted to caution folks to go light on Sul-Po-Mag or K-Mag. It's very high in Mg and K. The K is probably fine but the Mg can be a problem. Most container media like this have good levels of Mg already. I choose not to use it based on the soil testing I've done with my mixes, but if you did want to use it I would start at like an 1/8th of a cup per cubic ft to be safe and limit other Mg sources.

You can get the K and the Sulfur from other sources.

hey thanks for that info

you wouldnt be affiliated with those guys KIS who do soil and amendments n supplies would you?

[Bmac1]

Originally Posted by KIS

Probably too late for this mix, but wanted to caution folks to go light on Sul-Po-Mag or K-Mag. It's very high in Mg and K. The K is probably fine but the Mg can be a problem. Most container media like this have good levels of Mg already. I choose not to use it based on the soil testing I've done with my mixes, but if you did want to use it I would start at like an 1/8th of a cup per cubic ft to be safe and limit other Mg sources.

You can get the K and the Sulfur from other sources.

This is something that is on my mind. I do not want too much mg and want to ensure enough ca. I have dolomite and sul po mag as well as gypsum. I may just go with gypsum for sulphur and ca and maybe use some epsom salts. I would still need to ensure I am getting enough k going that route.

[Gr33nSanta]

The more I learn about soil biology the less I feed my plants. I am sure I could go in my yard and dig just about anywhere, fill a 7 gallon pot, and grow a fucking nice cannabis plant.

To me, it's more about genetics, as long as you give your plants water, light, and good environment/temps, and ample room for the roots to grow, you should do well.

[Limeygreen]

Calcitic lime is a nice choice to add calcium without magnesium as well, soft rock phosphates help as well for calcium and phosphorus but generally take awhile for the phosphate to fully integrate into the soil, up to three years in field soils.