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Old 07-26-2017, 05:26 PM #11
Mikell
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No, they evolved to do both. I've never heard of plants favouring foliar applications over root, especially as not all nutrients transfer through stomata or epidermis efficiently.

Try adding more perlite or an available aeration amendment to your soil next round. Too much organic matter in a soil and heavy topdressing of fine particulate will raise bulk density to an unhealthy level (high water holding capacity and low gas exchange).
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Old 07-26-2017, 05:31 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi5891 View Post
My view is that I dont like the thought of spraying my meds with nutes and chemicals etc directly onto what I'll consume. You may rinse some off with water but I bet not all.
Other reason I tend to not folar much other than neem oil, is that plant starts to rely on taking food in through the leaves leaving the stomata open all the time and not taking as much up through the roots. Plants evolved to feed through the roots not the leaves.
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I always rinse buds in water at harvest. But I hear you and your concerns. ppm's sould be real low on foliar.
Foliar feefing is necessary when roots are damaged or pH is off. As in the plant above.
Its not black and white.You can wait for roots to recover
But If you foliar feed you keep the plant growing.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:22 PM #13
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Thanks, guys. Mistakes are the best teachers, aren´t they?!
I´ve learned a lot and quite sure the next grow will be nicer.
Anyways, in 10 days, for the first time, I´ll smoke some good stuff from a plant I nurtured! Amazing!
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:13 PM #14
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I thought it was also just a common rule of thumb not to folar feed after 3/4 weeks into bloom. Also washing your buds in water seems crazy to me, if you didn't folar there'd be no need to.
Jorge Cervantes is my go to grow expert and on page 274 of his medical grow bible in the water and nutrients chapter, he explains folar feeding should only be used really as a quick fix to a symptom and that the foliage isn't very good at absorbing nutrients due to the waxy cuticle and cystolith hairs. Young plants have softer more permeable leaves than older plants so spraying fully mature plants in bloom you risk build up on the leaves which does stop roots from taking in more which confuses the plant.
The surface of the leaf is for photosynthesis and warding off pests and diseases.
Peace
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:18 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solista View Post
Thanks, guys. Mistakes are the best teachers, aren´t they?!
I´ve learned a lot and quite sure the next grow will be nicer.
Anyways, in 10 days, for the first time, I´ll smoke some good stuff from a plant I nurtured! Amazing!
Yeah your right mistakes are the best teachers so embrace them as they'll make you a better grower.

If I had any advice for a newish grower it would be that environment is the most important factor, then genetics. Also dont over look how important the difference between the day time and night time temps are, there wants to be about a 10 degree difference. Makes a huge impact on the stretch.
Peace
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:54 AM #16
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It is quite difficult to find the reason for yellowing leafes. Of cause it is any deficiency, but what exactly, in which amounts and why, is difficult to say. Are there really too less nutrients in soil, or is there any reason the plant just can't take it?
Often roots are damaged or insufficient. PH values are wrong or maybe all reasons together.

I found the most easy way for me to avoid yellow leaves is to repot my plants between day 14 and 21 after switching to 12/12, The Plants start stretching now and prefowers start growing. The roots are also still growing a while.

This is also the time short before yellowing starts. One reason for the yellowing leaves is also the very high need for nutrients of the plants during flowering. If the roots are just too small for the big buds of our highly breeded weed,the leaves start yellowing.

The new pot should have about double size. I repot from 10 Liter to 20 Liter.
New fresh quality soil got sufficient food for about three or four more weeks and the right PH value and - very important - space for the roots to grow. The bigger the roots, the moore food they can take.
If the plant gets repotted three weeks after 12/12, new fresh soil means the plant has at least enough food until week 6, maybe even week 7. No fertilizer is necessary until this point.

An Indica is done in 8 or 9 weeks, maybe even faster. One may feed an indica a bit 6th and 7th week. That is all. And even if the plants will yellow after four weeks in new soil, it will be arround four weeks later.

It is very easy and convenient to grow this style. Just use good, well known quality soil and plain water.

When I repot my plants that late, flowering often delays a bit. Flowers may take some days longer, but will be fatter.

I would also have repotted at day 33 when my plants would yellow, even if it is generally too late, but it would have been worth a try. Now it's too late for that. Your plants should be about day 43.
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Old 07-27-2017, 01:45 AM #17
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I wouldn't recommend transplanting during flower.

Typically you repot and then give plants at least 1 week before switching to 12/12.

There are many other ways to continue feeding plants.
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Old 07-27-2017, 01:57 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi5891 View Post
I thought it was also just a common rule of thumb not to folar feed after 3/4 weeks into bloom. Also washing your buds in water seems crazy to me, if you didn't folar there'd be no need to.
Jorge Cervantes is my go to grow expert and on page 274 of his medical grow bible in the water and nutrients chapter, he explains folar feeding should only be used really as a quick fix to a symptom and that the foliage isn't very good at absorbing nutrients due to the waxy cuticle and cystolith hairs. Young plants have softer more permeable leaves than older plants so spraying fully mature plants in bloom you risk build up on the leaves which does stop roots from taking in more which confuses the plant.
The surface of the leaf is for photosynthesis and warding off pests and diseases.
Peace
I always wash buds. Cleans them of dust and rinses them. And any bugs. Beneficial of not.

No different to harvesting in the rain. Which I did dozens of times in Hawaii! haha! Rains every damn day sometimes!

And yes foliar as a quick fix... isn't that what this thread was about? Fixing a sick plant? I have foliar fed indicas twice a day up to flush with no ill effects.

I agree with a lot of what Jorge says. But you're way of track with plants being confused by foliar feeding. Sorry but that is just silly.
That's Jorge and his hippy growing style. No science behind it. Sorry.
I advise getting a second guru in your life.

Like defoliation. He is against it. But he is an outdoor farmer. Taking outdoor leaves is dumb. The sun can penetrate.
I am indoor. And those leaves get chopped... To each their own as usual...
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:00 AM #19
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[quote=mushroombrew;8013851
Typically you repot and then give plants at least 1 week before switching to 12/12.[/QUOTE]

I know. This is the general rule. But my experience is good and it is very easy. Try it with just one of your plants. Many people do this because it's so easy.

https://www.mandalaseeds.com/Guides/Soil-Guide
"I choose a lightweight soil mix for my plants and am worried about early yellowing. What can I do?

Repot into a larger container with the correct soil mix. You can do this up to 30 days into flowering."


Maybe it is not perfect and there are better ways. For sure there are.
But for a beginner it is a good way to start and not everybody wants to invest so much effort. I like it, because I have nothing to do than spending some plain water this and then. I simply can't do anything wrong. And it works well. And it is pure organic, or nearly.
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:35 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coconutcurry View Post
I know. This is the general rule. But my experience is good and it is very easy. Try it with just one of your plants. Many people do this because it's so easy.

https://www.mandalaseeds.com/Guides/Soil-Guide
"I choose a lightweight soil mix for my plants and am worried about early yellowing. What can I do?

Repot into a larger container with the correct soil mix. You can do this up to 30 days into flowering."


Maybe it is not perfect and there are better ways. For sure there are.
But for a beginner it is a good way to start and not everybody wants to invest so much effort. I like it, because I have nothing to do than spending some plain water this and then. I simply can't do anything wrong. And it works well. And it is pure organic, or nearly.
Ok I'll take you up on that. I have a sour nightmare at 3 wks flower. She is in a 1 gallon soil. I'll pot her up tonight and see!
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