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#121 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,404
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The perlite will make its way to the top after a few good rains. It won't be doing anything for the soil at that point. It is also very noticeable on the ground and unusual looking. It could draw attention to the plot.
Adding gypsum to clay soil breaks the clay down and improves it over time. It also raises the soil ph just like lime does only better in clay soil. If there are trees around or grasses take a rake and mix them in the soil. |
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#122 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 8,761
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#123 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 8,761
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for gypsum?
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#124 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 427
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i wish i could use gypsum instead of lime but its not available easily here, it needs to be ordered online and it takes times to arrives. i read gypsum is better than lime. anyway here is Tom Hill soil recipe if it can help you star crash
Quote from Tom Hill: I've played with a lot of different soil recipes over the years, 1rst year new soil mixes, as well as yearly additives. Here's a very simple mix that is well proven and I am comfortable recommending for those large outdoor containers. It gives about 50 cubic feet or just over 300 gallons (dry U.S), and fills a 6ft diameter container to a depth of about 18inches - perfectly. 25 bags black gold potting soil (1.5cf ea) 4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf ea) 1 bag perlite (4 cf ea) 1 bag (50 lbs) bonemeal (steamed, not precipitated) 1/2 bag gypsum (aprox 1/2 cf) - Edit -> 1/2 of a 40 lb bag (20lbs). Mix well, water thoroughly, let rest for 2-3 weeks minimum, transplant, and stand back Best Regards, Tom
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I, for one, prefer plants to camps - less cults of personality. |
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2 members found this post helpful. |
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#125 |
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ヾ(⌐■_■)ノ
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 1,655
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^
gypsum , try home brew shops, or specialty horticulture shop like golf/pitch shops. topdress to cover the expose perlite/vermiculite thinking of growing some root crops in the winter to break up clay soil, anyone tried? |
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#126 |
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xXx~SkunkDaddyOutlaw~xXx
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: That mountain over yonder!
Posts: 1,654
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You guys talking about mixing perlite in clay soil to loosen the soil, it does kinda float to the top every time it gets really wet. But the main and most important thing about perlite, is don't believe that even a large bag is going to go far at all while actually being useful (if mixing in native soil), maybe even only one or 2 good sized holes is all one large bag will do. If you have the funds to spend on tons of it then by all means go for it or unless your not including native (clay soil). If your grow hole is mostly made up of soiless mix or a good potting soil and compost and not much clay then it most likely may be useful, but in that case you shouldn't even need it. I take it as if you guys are wanting to use it to improve the drainage and aerate (native clay soil exclusively) then unless your using a shit ton of perlite per hole it will not work. It just isn't enough in even bigger than small amounts to go far and do what you need it to do. Maybe over years it will, but your better off raking up twigs, dried up broken straw, sand, sticks, leaves, grass clippings, coco, and even lava rock than you are using perlite.
IF you end up using perlite at least get the really large chunky perlite like the kind size of gravels or the diameter of a dime. I have experience in trying perlite and have worked in clay soils for years. We have a lot of red clay here in eastern ky and if broken up, aerated right and amended correctly it will keep you from having to water all season long. If I have confused you by making this post, please let me clear up any questions you have about it. Just don't wanna see you guys get disappointed or make an unneeded purchase that could be spent on other important things. Sometimes I don't explain things in the correct order to make much sense haha but I will do my best ya'll!
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#127 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 8,761
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^^^^^^you've convinced me not to use perlite
...i'm going native...digging big holes the best i can & we'll actually see what the dirt looks likepeace & thanks for the tips i'm going to be picking your brain...i picked up some deer repellant to experiment with, also been collecting my own urine to scatter around my veg plot at the site...also got some 70% concentrated NEEM and i plan to dunk ALL my young plants...lot of hauling water to the site as well,but it's all steady progress.. |
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#128 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,404
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You can get gypsum at feed stores, True Value hardware and Ace hardware, WalMart, Lowes and many other places.
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2 members found this post helpful. |
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#129 | |
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xXx~SkunkDaddyOutlaw~xXx
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: That mountain over yonder!
Posts: 1,654
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Quote:
Clay soil is something that takes time to break down and change into a fine medium. Gypsum, lime, adding organic matters and mulching with green grass clippings or decomposing matter will work best. But unless you plan on removing all or the majority of clay from your holes then aerate it with the things I mentioned in my previous post. At the end of the year, after harvest, turn your dirt and remix the ground. Keep adding and mixing and over time you will have holes of gold! Focus more on water retention. You do not wanna ware yourself out hauling water in 90 degree humid weather every other day and it does become fatiguing over time. Yes drainage is important but just dig your holes wide and deep and break everything up including big lumps of clay as fine as you can and gently repack the soil after amending. Your drainage should be perfectly fine, when plants get large and establish a large root system, don't worry they will suck up the water as fast as it falls on them. I have never once had an over watered outdoor plant in the ground in a guerilla grow no matter if it was planted in 100% native soil or completely new amended soil. I also remove and pick out large rocks as well. Sometimes I throw them aside or create a barrier around the plant with then to help encircle the rains, mulches, etc.. I sometimes add water polymers to my holes as well, order these in bulk bags from ebay or amazon and you will have enough to go a long long way. If the soil is heavily amended and has a lot of organic matter and soilless mix I always use crystals. If its mostly native dirt you dont really need them but in the case of native soil add the stuff I mentioned previously to your holes instead. I have used deer repellent before, it seemed to work fine. But here we go again, another "possible" problem with deer repellent is it is most usually made up of blood and eggshell to deter the deer away. In return, the prescribed method comes with side effects of attracting raccoon, coyotes, skunks, bears, dogs, etc... Then you have a dug up plant or a plant broken into from the curious prowlers... Best bet for deer or rabbits is chicken wire or a few pieces of bamboo or sticks and fishing line tied around the plant or perimeter of 4 strands tied at 4 inches, 10 inches, 15 inches, 20 inches for example. They bump or sniff into it and it spooks them off. Another useful method is also a case of irish spring (brand I use specifically) bar soap, take a knife and peel "shave" pieces around the plant and area. Also a good ole stink sweaty sock that has set in the sun for a while in a plastic bag, maybe even with some pee and terds in it works well too. Lmao... I know, right? ![]()
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2 members found this post helpful. |
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#130 |
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xXx~SkunkDaddyOutlaw~xXx
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: That mountain over yonder!
Posts: 1,654
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Gypsum works well Tarzan but does take a little time to work down the clay. I say add gypsum and/or lime as well as aerate and amend with twigs, hay/straw, leaves and stuff as well at the same time. Perfect mix I say.
Last edited by MountainBudz; 06-14-2017 at 03:36 AM.. |
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1 members found this post helpful. |
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