[Iamnumber]

I put the saplings from 10/10 () patch into medium.

Testing medium mix that I guess might work and few setups on different cups/ very moist bottom layer.

4 in mix with 1 perlite, 1 coco, 1 soil.

1 was put with 1½ perlite, 1 coco, 1 soil.

1 was put with 1½ perlite, 1 coco, 1 soil AND thin layer of fytocell at bottom (idea is that this will be a step against dying out)

4 was put with 1 perlite, 1 coco, 1 soil AND thin layer of fytocell at bottom (idea is that this will be a step against dying out)

All are in plastic cups, some with cuts on side to see if they make any difference. All have holes at bottom (thou part have fytocell to mimic hempy reservoir - potential benefit is that fytocell would allow holes at bottom which opens door for air pruning).

Light watering on top, fairly solid watering for bottom (so middle where sprout is left 'dry' on top layer, middle layer dry and bottom layer wet . Hoping the root will seek water / moisture will wick toward root/seed AND that drier environment will give plants a better chance.

One set of four seeds in quite well hydrated coco. testing how it will keep with wick feeding.

-- Notes for testing at some point --
Scarring, 1st pot size,

-- Notes for production run --
wash hands _- minor thing to do but can save from world of hurt.
clean tools/seeds with hydro peroxide (liquid oxygen for example) -- again.. minor cost to take the prudent course of action.

[Iamnumber]

Transplanted saplings are doing fine. 5/10 have opened up and dropped the helmet while remaining 5 still have the helmet.

As some of the seeds I put directly to soil are tiny pit ahead, I noted that some of the saplings were deformed - having only a single cotyledons. I guess the helmet/ protective sac stayed on for too long.

On 100% coco (with wick feed quick and dirty test) I had 4 seeds. only one broke surface and helmet stayed on 'for too long' 'it looked like I should help the plant to get out of it'. Result was that I botched the job and broke off the tip :(

So the question is.. Do you have any tips on how to help plant 'open up' and 'drop the helmet' ?

Second item on the list. I am interested in root pruning (air-pots). Root trap propagation pots are not available here (looked cool and great value). 1 Quart = 1 L air-pot is only one available here. I was wondering if that might be bit too big as a first pot? My best guess would be that 25 cu. in. (~0,4 L) might be better as a first pot.

As smaller air pruning pots are not available some DIY would be the only option.

While air pruning is not an subject to this sub-forum - I feel the size of the 1st pot is.. and I do plan to utilize air pruning so that has to be taken into consideration.

If you have pointers on cost/ effort efficient ways to improve seed/ cutling propagation.. please do post em. ( I have about two pound pack of the no-thc, no-/ very-little-cbd strain to be played with as I have not found the energy to do any baking (where I could use these sees ) )

- notes for further testing --
Natural rooting hormones to increase success rate / speed of plant development. First step would be to compare with and without different remedies and different combinations of mixes.

[Iamnumber]

Originally Posted by Iamnumber

Transplanted saplings are doing fine. 5/10 have opened up and dropped the helmet while remaining 5 still have the helmet.

Looks like final score is 6/10 pushed through till serrated leaves.

two freed themselves from helmet/membrane too late/ with damage > Growth tip lost. I mean the cotyledons stay bound up within membrane and (quite often) starts to look like swan neck/head (stalk as neck and bound up leaves as head/peak). Two seedlings growth stalled as cotyledons stayed trapped within seed hull (only taproot and stalk pushed out - seed remained quite closed)

I did try to free these up but it looks like I waited a bit too long (one did continue healthy grow pushing score from 5/10 to 6/10). So more practice needed on timing (when one should step in) and how to remove helmet/membrane without damaging the plant.

The sole surviving medical seed is enjoying as she basks in bright light. Leaf size <> stalk length is looking good. No sign of burn etc.

Next patch of germination started. 7 seeds, bottom hydration with wick effect. Seeds are sitting on paper towel inch apart and covered with thin/hard coffee filter paper (idea is that seeds will stay moist and get some air). With wick effect I hope the moisture will stay good without too much active monitoring or watering/ ventilation.

The bit different rig I used last time had a bit of stability issues so I opted for described method.

[yesum]

I shave the edge of the seed where it joins together or the sharp tip of the seed. Not too much or you damage the insides.

I am gonna try using some distilled water with a bit of earthworm casting in it to help things along this time. I use gloves during all the handling to prevent any contamination. Heating mat set to 75 degrees. Seeds between two sponges damp but not soaking wet and that inside a airtight food container.

The seeds into a worm bin sounds the most successful so far. I have no worm bin so.

[Gelado`]

I've found germination to go significantly quicker at closer to 80-85 F. Also you want to make sure you have a nice, airy medium. Professional seed starting mix is incredible! If you are unsure about the mix, pour boiling water through it. This will knock out soil parasites. Obviously you want the medium to cool before you sow your seeds.

I never presoak or use paper towels. Just germinated 4/4 Dutch Passion Auto White Widows sowing directly in the mix and they're doing great now.

For helmets, I drop water onto the helmet and if they need help, I VERY carefully remove the seed coat and the membrane underneath. If you're careful, this won't hurt the plants at all. Wash your hands first to prevent spreading pathogens to your new babies.

[Bud_Man10]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=172749

Peace
BM

[Iamnumber]

Originally Posted by yesum

I shave the edge of the seed where it joins together or the sharp tip of the seed. Not too much or you damage the insides.

I am gonna try using some distilled water with a bit of earthworm casting in it to help things along this time. I use gloves during all the handling to prevent any contamination. Heating mat set to 75 degrees. Seeds between two sponges damp but not soaking wet and that inside a airtight food container.

The seeds into a worm bin sounds the most successful so far. I have no worm bin so.

Thank you, I will add the shaving to the list of things to try. What is your preferred tool for this? small file?

Regarding wormbin, Try to find a strain that is bred to the composting (scientific name: Eisenia fetida) - Bit smaller and thinner than standard red crawler but these can stand warm (house hold) temperatures better.

My worm bin has been contaminated with small pests so this is something (risk) to consider.

[Iamnumber]

Originally Posted by Gelado`

For helmets, I drop water onto the helmet and if they need help, I VERY carefully remove the seed coat and the membrane underneath. If you're careful, this won't hurt the plants at all. Wash your hands first to prevent spreading pathogens to your new babies.

Thank you for this info! I just managed to remove couple of helmets without damaging the plant/sapling. My hands are not delicate so this is extra hard for me.

Best practice (at this point) is to trap the helmet between thumb & index finger of left (secondary) hand from the left side of plant. Then from the right side of plant insert a sharp tool that you can manipulate into helmet (careful not to damage plant) and push (or pull) helmet open (which ever way works best). Plan is to brace helmet with left hand and apply force to the other side of helmet and force the helmet open without applying force to the plant.

It would stand to reason that weakening the seem (as suggested) would help the process as long as embryo is not damaged.

[Iamnumber]

Originally Posted by Bud_Man10

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=172749

Peace
BM

Thank you - that is a nice setup and I will try to incorporate that style of heating. I do not recall seeing that exact type of sponges here so I think I must look for alternatives - This is one more reference point to 'what is appropriate'

I managed to sprout 6/6 seeds between paper towels.
2 layers each side of seed (pre moisture with chlorid water to kill pathogens)
bottom wick fed.
Bottom non water absorbing -plastic, no cover on top.

The paper did stay slightly too moist so while I do feel this is the way to go - I must still dial in water intake/ -evaporation ratio.

Paper was size of (large hand). Feeding with ~8 * 1mm or 1/32" multistrand nylon cord.

Temperature was aimed at high room temperatures ~25C or ~80F (lower at night I guess)

[Iamnumber]

sigh.. forgot to post and I cant edit so..

so seeds were put into soil heavy medium after taproots were showing (varying lengths - longest was ~1 inch. All were put at once as I feared that longer time between towels might increase pathogen risk.

Helping hand was offered 'rather bit too soon rather than too late' mindset as 'rather later than too soon' resulted loss in previous experiment.

More details on removing technique on previous post