[DuskrayTroubador]

Originally Posted by Easy7

Never used too much kelp. It's more about budget and getting the best bang for the buck.

I feel the same way about insect frass. Can't use too much.

So I'm pretty set (I think) on my soil amendments for this year...

This is an old pic from a few years ago, but you can get an idea of the soil typical in my neck of the woods. It's a clay, but that shit dries out quick. I won't make the mistake of leaving dry, gray soil like that again... shit's a security risk.



So that's the type of dirt I generally have to work with, more or less. (Keep in mind the soil is already amended in that pic, but clearly not as well as it could have been)

So I'm gonna be using:

-Coco coir for aeration (seems to be the most practical option between it being easy to transport and wayyyyyyy cheaper than pumice & rice hulls)
-insect frass
-goat manure
-rabbit manure
-kelp meal
-pulverized lime

I'm gonna go pretty heavy on the three manures since they're all cold manures (meaning incredibly difficult if not impossible to burn plants with). 1 cup/cubic foot of insect frass, and then the goat and rabbit manure are probably gonna make up a third of each hole. Liberal with the kelp meal as well, and the trusty ol' (small, cuz of the coco coir's ph) handfull of pulverized, fast-acting lime.

I've generally done holes 3' in diameter, 18 inches deep in the middle, but I might go a little bigger. I'll probably dig the middle area a few inches deeper and throw all the small rocks I've dug up in there for a drainage pit. (If I find very decomposed branches/logs nearby, to the point where they basically crumble, I'll throw those on top of the rocks) I might also make the holes 4' in diameter as well, I think it could make a big difference in yield. This year I'm doing several 1 plant plots, and so it'll be a bit less tiring to make the holes bigger (when you're digging between 4 and 8 large holes per plot... you guys know).

Got some clover I'm gonna throw down as a cover crop as well.

A question about the coco: Can I mix a little bit of the compressed brick (like 20% the amount I want to end up with) in the hole and wait for it to expand with the rain? Or could that cause problems (pushing seedlings out if done too close to planting, mold from not being mixed/broken up well as it's hydrated)? Should I bring some big tupperware or cut a couple milk jugs in half and use those to hydrate it while I'm digging the holes?

Thanks for all the help, guys.

[Kygiacomo!!!]

Originally Posted by DuskrayTroubador

I feel the same way about insect frass. Can't use too much.

So I'm pretty set (I think) on my soil amendments for this year...

This is an old pic from a few years ago, but you can get an idea of the soil typical in my neck of the woods. It's a clay, but that shit dries out quick. I won't make the mistake of leaving dry, gray soil like that again... shit's a security risk.

View Image

So that's the type of dirt I generally have to work with, more or less. (Keep in mind the soil is already amended in that pic, but clearly not as well as it could have been)

So I'm gonna be using:

-Coco coir for aeration (seems to be the most practical option between it being easy to transport and wayyyyyyy cheaper than pumice & rice hulls)
-insect frass
-goat manure
-rabbit manure
-kelp meal
-pulverized lime

I'm gonna go pretty heavy on the three manures since they're all cold manures (meaning incredibly difficult if not impossible to burn plants with). 1 cup/cubic foot of insect frass, and then the goat and rabbit manure are probably gonna make up a third of each hole. Liberal with the kelp meal as well, and the trusty ol' (small, cuz of the coco coir's ph) handfull of pulverized, fast-acting lime.

I've generally done holes 3' in diameter, 18 inches deep in the middle, but I might go a little bigger. I'll probably dig the middle area a few inches deeper and throw all the small rocks I've dug up in there for a drainage pit. (If I find very decomposed branches/logs nearby, to the point where they basically crumble, I'll throw those on top of the rocks) I might also make the holes 4' in diameter as well, I think it could make a big difference in yield. This year I'm doing several 1 plant plots, and so it'll be a bit less tiring to make the holes bigger (when you're digging between 4 and 8 large holes per plot... you guys know).

Got some clover I'm gonna throw down as a cover crop as well.

A question about the coco: Can I mix a little bit of the compressed brick (like 20% the amount I want to end up with) in the hole and wait for it to expand with the rain? Or could that cause problems (pushing seedlings out if done too close to planting, mold from not being mixed/broken up well as it's hydrated)? Should I bring some big tupperware or cut a couple milk jugs in half and use those to hydrate it while I'm digging the holes?

Thanks for all the help, guys.

i wouldnt personally go without earthworm castings myself. u can even get some at walmart now. they arent the best from walmart but they are better then no EWC. a 5 pound bag at walmart cost 5$ or u can go on amazon and get a 15 pound bag for 18$ of wiggle worm. ewc is loaded with humus and great beneficials. i mix my coco and water crystals in the hole dry and let the rain do its thing,but i already got my holes set for this year so i have plenty of time for shit to break down and for the coco and crystals to bulk up.

[HIMALAYAN GANJA]

Originally Posted by DuskrayTroubador

I feel the same way about insect frass. Can't use too much.

So I'm pretty set (I think) on my soil amendments for this year...

This is an old pic from a few years ago, but you can get an idea of the soil typical in my neck of the woods. It's a clay, but that shit dries out quick. I won't make the mistake of leaving dry, gray soil like that again... shit's a security risk.

View Image

So that's the type of dirt I generally have to work with, more or less. (Keep in mind the soil is already amended in that pic, but clearly not as well as it could have been)

So I'm gonna be using:

-Coco coir for aeration (seems to be the most practical option between it being easy to transport and wayyyyyyy cheaper than pumice & rice hulls)
-insect frass
-goat manure
-rabbit manure
-kelp meal
-pulverized lime

I'm gonna go pretty heavy on the three manures since they're all cold manures (meaning incredibly difficult if not impossible to burn plants with). 1 cup/cubic foot of insect frass, and then the goat and rabbit manure are probably gonna make up a third of each hole. Liberal with the kelp meal as well, and the trusty ol' (small, cuz of the coco coir's ph) handfull of pulverized, fast-acting lime.

I've generally done holes 3' in diameter, 18 inches deep in the middle, but I might go a little bigger. I'll probably dig the middle area a few inches deeper and throw all the small rocks I've dug up in there for a drainage pit. (If I find very decomposed branches/logs nearby, to the point where they basically crumble, I'll throw those on top of the rocks) I might also make the holes 4' in diameter as well, I think it could make a big difference in yield. This year I'm doing several 1 plant plots, and so it'll be a bit less tiring to make the holes bigger (when you're digging between 4 and 8 large holes per plot... you guys know).

Got some clover I'm gonna throw down as a cover crop as well.

A question about the coco: Can I mix a little bit of the compressed brick (like 20% the amount I want to end up with) in the hole and wait for it to expand with the rain? Or could that cause problems (pushing seedlings out if done too close to planting, mold from not being mixed/broken up well as it's hydrated)? Should I bring some big tupperware or cut a couple milk jugs in half and use those to hydrate it while I'm digging the holes?

Thanks for all the help, guys.

Hllo i amgladi found thi thread. i strongly believe that like someone said earlier in this thread that we can collect all kinds of ammendments from the woods. that what i do.

i prepared about 20 swamp tubes with 100 percent forest topsoil with organic fert granules thats it. that forest top soil is good stuff and has worm castings in it naturally? plus its texture is good on its own without adding perlite. [url='https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=75475&p

[HIMALAYAN GANJA]

free forest ammendments available on site no hauling and being spotted by your local vigilanti

[DuskrayTroubador]

My main concern with scraping up topsoil from around the site is that in doing so, you substantially increase the chances of your presence being known.

If someone is out walking within 100 yards of your plants and sees the top soil removed/disturbed, it's going to look puzzling/suspicious.

That doesn't mean I'm against doing it, but it does mean that I don't like the idea of taking more than a little bit of it.

[Bud Green Sr.]

If you enjoy walking around in the woods, especially this time of year before it gets hot out
(and assuming the ground isn't snow covered), carry a 5 gallon bucket and a small shovel...
(I have an old surplus Army folding shovel, that I've had forever)

Brush aside the leaves that fell last year and shovel up the top 2 or 3 inches of forest soil in a small area..(a few sq. ft.)
This should fill your bucket halfway.)
Brush the leaves you had moved, back where they were and in a few days no one will be able to tell that anyone has been there...

This soil is super rich and fertile, and added to your existing holes,
will give your girls most of the nutrients they need to grow very well.

[HIMALAYAN GANJA]

hi there bud green
you say that the topsoil in the forest actally has enough npk to support plants on its own?? that is good news if its true

[-BRR-]

Originally Posted by DuskrayTroubador

My main concern with scraping up topsoil from around the site is that in doing so, you substantially increase the chances of your presence being known.

If someone is out walking within 100 yards of your plants and sees the top soil removed/disturbed, it's going to look puzzling/suspicious.

That doesn't mean I'm against doing it, but it does mean that I don't like the idea of taking more than a little bit of it.

Good point and same goes from the air.

Back to the topic. i’ve done the mulch thing in ground over and over in poorer soil areas. and had some suscusees but to much work imo especially when spots aren’t always permanent. Best thing is choosing the right soil in the fist place. Typically along creeks and rivers around me is where the best soil is. so grow there. Also even the bases of shallow gully’s typically is were the richest soil collects as well as moisture sinks.

As for amendments (the actually question sorry for the rant)I took interest a year or so ago the high brix following and read the high brix threads here over and over. They don’t actually advocate much mulch at all fwiw (too high in potassium) lol but there seems to be science behind it. Pretty in-depth thread though. Awesome read.
I better find a link for it...

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=263692

Dammit you guys are getting me excited again. I think it’s what this old fart needs.

Btw what you have listed there Duskray ticks allot of boxes. testing the soil ph may be a good idea also. Thanks for kicking off the thread too.

[Tiresmoke19]

Just a few tips I didn't see mentioned.

If using pine needles they significantly lower ph as they decompose so up your lime or amend with wood ash as both will raise it back up.

Decomposing wood will eat up nitrogen and lots (all) of it. Urea is a strait N that would be easy to carry in, would be best to give high doses of N in advance to not burn plants. Clover cover crop will fixate nitrogen from atmosphere if you wana be more natural about getting your N back.

[Tiresmoke19]

Oh yeah, if your a manure user. Try and find a mink farm. There manure is excellent at keeping other critters away from your plants