[Snook]

Originally Posted by Egzoset

Salutations,



Well i've certainly couldn't but notice that he now owns an Arizer Solo II, then he equally made reference to baking-related matters as left-over material - which spells tar in my book:

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That was a 1-week osmosis filtration experiment involving 172 g of "ABV" (e.g. left-over material), where water was replaced with fresh water every day, ensuring every part was submerged and it all rested in a cool dark place. Past the removal of water-solubles some further treatment using alcohol extraction followed if i'm not mistaking. The outcome was a repulsive ½ gram tarball with zero value to me...

Unfortunately, as i recall, i was using my (jumbo) Solo like contraption at the time - which points a finger right at BAKING once again.



Even the "performance" of a desktop will fail me, now imagine a portable! Some people think smaller means simpler but the necessary trade-offs makes that just the opposite IMO.



Lets concur! I was sitting right next to a close relative in the same living room and he was clueless, but that's a smoker...



There are many ways to "vape" noble molecules. Smoking partly vaporizes, e-Cigs use e-Liquid as their Release/Transport Agent instead of the toxic cigarette mix, while vaporizers divide as sub-groups including the Dry-Baking Overnizers (portable or otherwise), the Self-Moisturizing (and hopefully someday the Auto-Conditioning) type which i've adopted as my last-chance option, then a futuristic process involving the pressurized nebulization of pre-activated compounds...

So to me there's excellent reason to want to eliminate sulfur, petroleum, lighter fluid, tar/cauldron and nicotine, but i must objectively digress on butane because its clean-burning reaction generates distilled super-heated water steam mixed with super-heated carbonic gas which contribute to the heater stream as INLET "specific heat" enhancement. Which makes a significant difference already while i wish "zero impurities" (filtered) butane tanks are eventually replaced by bio-generated butane - without the comet dust - to please purists who believe this is required to begin doing some good in this increasingly elitist "community"... Another possible substitution being electro-magnetic induction heat combined to the Curie effect (for packetization/dosage), using an auxiliary boiler/evaporator holding a droplet or 2 of distilled water...

In any case a simple self-moisturizing pipe is many times cheaper than most table units anyway and nonetheless it has very little competition still today, thanks to purists. Please keep in mind that engineering is no popularity contest nor a religion!



It may be related to particle size, at least that's how i came to explain my own relief feeling when i flush internal surface irritation by drinking water. Which only makes the double function of INLET SELF-MOISTURIZING even more precious and most especially in a pocket/portable format (that still works when gone deep in wild nature...)!!

So it's not even the concept that is flawed, only our $elf-$erving terrori$t politi¢ians, In The Name Of Children!...





My advice would be to focuss on the process instead of making references to its associated power source. A Hammer, Lotus, VapMan, Vaponic and similar strictly ain't equivalent to the VaporGenie concept relying on clean hot butane exhaust gasses mixed with convective heat from a flame's corona - and my moddified version more than ever actually. The 1st type is just as any Dry-Baking Ovenizer, the Supreme too but i like its early de-facto promoting of a more well-defined "bursting" (pulse-mode) without really advertizing its benefits specifically: it's in the design. Today we got the DynaVap at an even lower cost while i noticed the patent mentions liquid, but right now it's going to feel dry just like the others. Possibly the differences that separate them from each other is the particle size, but i found that i could deal with the lack of water even less. Not to mention dry filtration as mine causes particles to stick to moist fibers which increasingly collect more as condensation builds up in my flexible Extension Tubing. Doubling as a self-awareness feature directly reflecting the consumed amount, visually. All this in a tiny simple healty ~100 $ (CAD) device where operator skills combined to the quality of a complement butane lighter + butane gas are no less critical by the way...



It's OKay to ask questions but get prepared for the answers, then the answers on the answers! Etc...

Good day, have fun!!

Sounds to me like that there is allot of wisdom and science in your reply but I don't know if yer with me or against me partner and more than half of it I cant follow.. couple things I understand:
I taste the butane when lighting a joint, wont even consider a glass pipe any more.. anything water filtered is good.. I like taste but the remnants in my head are more important to me. That 'inert dust' that makes it thru the screen (and most portables don't even have a screen between the bowl and your mouth) into your mouth and possibly into ones lungs. Inert. I'm not a scientist and sometimes not the brightest bulb in the package but inert material in lungs cant, in the long run, be good, IMO. of course just the act of vaping/smoking is putting inert material into ones lungs..

[Egzoset]

Salutations Snook,

Originally Posted by Snook

...but I don't know if yer with me or against me...

That certainly is an unexpected question if/when considered from where i stand but i have no reluctance to appologize should the formulation have felt unpleasant or else. Actually i suspect it's possible it was my (forged/imported) "Drama Queen" reputation which made resonating echoes that evoked such present worries, i gather; the recent deletion of related work elsewhere, just yesterday (...), for example, would only appear to support your decision should you have decided that i may not be welcome on this other forum board anymore!

Originally Posted by Snook

...more than half of it I cant follow...

And me explain as i've got no teacher skills, really, yet i'm determined to share the fun if you're willing. It turns out i wrote a brief concatenation of what that's all about this morning, in *1* post that even included the less shiny stuff i mentioned which is likely to have surfaced on your radar by now:

www.bluelight.org/vb/threads/682435-Harm-Reduction-type-of-modded-vaporizer-pipe?p=14057145&viewfull=1#pos t14057145
BL: "Harm Reduction type of modded vaporizer pipe"

Sorry again, about the external link i mean. Please remove as you see fit, it only serves the purpose of taking some of the workload away.

Originally Posted by Snook

I taste the butane when lighting a joint...

Then how does one explain that i don't taste butane when i pre-heat that pipe's hybrid core?? The answer is operator errors i shall bet. At least there are basic tricks you can try but it occurs to me that i already wrote my own version of "the 10 commandments" a long time ago. Lucky me it was right on the page before, so i'll conveniently Cut 'n Paste it in here, if you don't mind.

[ https://plus.google.com/u/0/collection/AsJSIB ]

-=*=-

This is the English equivalent of my instructions as published previously:

0 - About Bowl loading, Always Fill and Never Pack. Keep in mind the Support Loop located right under a pipe's Cannabic Bowl needs to be "flipped" after removal as this greatly eases reinsertion, simply by screwing it in clockwise.

1 - With butane and/or it's related compounds present in the lungs path make sure there's ALWAYS a clean burning flame to convert butane from such stream into relatively safe superheated Water Vapor and Carbonic Gas, while taking care to inhale with much less force (by lifting the thumb over a pipe's PinHole) to pre-heat the Hybrid Core of a customized Sphere.

2 - NEVER let a flame touch anything as this will result in the addition of soot plus other nuisances. All that is required to be captured by the Flame-Catcher to inject a "Heat Charge" or "Energy Bubble" has to do with the Energy-Carrying Exhaust + some Radiative Heat.

3 - NEVER light up or extinguist a butane lighter close to the Flame Catcher. Flint-Wheel Yellow-Flame models generate health-hasard particles in the spark while the Blue Flame ones may fail to consume butane cleanly, extinguish at random and/or spit out liquid butane droplets not converted by fire... Briefly put, ALWAYS wait for a flame to stabilize before it's taken close to the Flame-Catcher Aperture.

4 - When a primary PinHole is available lift thumb during Pre-Heating. Once the Sphere is sufficiently energized, e.g. between 2~5 seconds depending on a butane lighter, use its stored heat which has just been temporarily injected into the Hybrid Core WITHOUT any butane and/or related stream present near the Flame-Catcher Aperture. This indirect/residual energy-source alone suffices to proceed with the actual Vaporization process.

5 - While vaporizing obstruct the PinHole in brief pulses, very short at first then increasingly longer to compensate for lost heat from the Hybrid Core as its energy reserve gets depleted. The periods with no PinHole-obstructive thumb in action contribute to oxygenation of the cannabic stream while promoting early detection of vaporization signs, especially hints as aroma/taste. Think of some method vaguely similar to "pumping" a car's breaks in an emergy maneuver situation, the goal being to probe using a sequence of short pulses instead of attempting to get it done in 1 single long pulse.

6 - A ~125 mg Bowl provides about 5~6 tokes, the left-over can be made useful at a later to produce relaxing cookies. Don't forget that once in a while even an empty cannabic Bowl can provide some satisfying toke (or two) from a sticky screen alone. Evidently stronger cookies should result from leaving more THC behind from vaping.

7 - It's time for cleanup maintenance when the pipe stops working as usual. Pick a pipe stick wetted with 94 % pure grain alcohol to clean wood VG Handles. NEVER allow the wood to absorb water as this would promote cracks in the wood. Metal models are to be prefered when condensed noble molecules need to be "reclaimed", though these feel heavier in the hand while wood's near organic-like aspects would prove more "sexy". Alternately, wood is an absorbing material so this makes it less desirable if/when resin reclaims are desired.

8 - Initially i found the genuine layout with VG's DuckLips MouthPiece was getting uncomfortably hot, the addition of a half-ball stainless steel object down under my cannabic Bowl paved the way to lower-temperature cannabic vapor being sent towards the lungs; as an option it may also help to capture particles in the cannabic vapor using a tiny cotton ball which somewhat adds to the cooling action after getting moist.

9 - When attempting to reconfigure the DuckLips MouthPiece to reflect the side-wise preference of an operator (e.g. right vs left) try to never forget about twisting it lightly while pulling on it with care as it's brittle.

10 - The need for eye-contact on the flame tip may require a Flexible Plastic PVC Tubing Extension. A length of 12.5 cm will do and that's a better place where to install the optional cotton ball. Last but not least, clear plastic makes it easy to monitor butane consumption based on water vapor condensation creating droplets in the tube after a potential abuse situation, or operating error, etc. The Tubing Extension will opacify if/when abuse continues, ultimately. End the session and re-evaluate operator skills if this occurs, don't forget to shake off liquid water droplets after removing that tube.

-=*=-

M'well that was then and this is now, maybe an update will prove usefull, eventually. Lets see! I'm only hoping this can answer your questions pre-emptively but i also welcome more!!

Originally Posted by Snook

I'm not a scientist and sometimes not the brightest bulb in the package but inert material in lungs cant, in the long run, be good, IMO.

Ah! Finally a most challenging question.

N. B.: Please keep in mind i'm always tempted to refocus on the announced topic instead of *me*, the message carrier, etc.; hence the rest can only derail a conversation with me around! Nuke me if that's not tolerable.



Anyway i myself once had some similar concern at the sight of SiC dust resulting from the cold/hot (heat-powered) grinding action that may take place where surfaces still include angle features. At least i can testify that there were debris in the very begining when i tressed the material quite excessively, beyond reason to a point i ruined a sphere's paint finish (...), while i was still having so much more work to accomplish - evidently!

Years later my "Micro-Bursting" ritual begins with a Pre-Heat pulse that has been reduced in duration most radically (5 ~ 6 fold!), no longer probing the field with some dirty yellow 12 ~ 15 seconds flame using relatively "heavy" configurations that eventually required high-throttle "power" (kitchen!) flames to deal with them, initially!...

Then i gradually succeed taming down my "Heat Charge" in size, so to speak, searching for an ultimate "sweet-spot" covering the desired range of applications. E. G. without the "Pepper" and "Punch in the Face" effects as that was supposed to raise popular acceptability in a "Harm Reduction" context!...

As a result of constant work in progress i tried to explore various parameter combinations iteratively which allowed conversion to a cleaner blue butane flame lasting only 2 ~ 3 seconds as Pre-Heat bursts, with the flame removed before the real vaporist work begins.

Briefly put the SiC issues i've once observed should no longer cause apprehensions or at least not of the same magnitude, simply because the excess stress was finally removed and hence i no longer hear the characteristic cracking. That's why i kept using wet cotton to complement the path, though the experimenter is always free of adapting this system to anything he sees fit using even more performant materials (or switch to "Plan-A" for that matter!), because it's not about "me" (i don't view myself as a good topic , honestly!).

Yet if my "Lava" concept (and similar) ever managed to sound appealing and/or "sexy", stimulating, useful, valuable somehow, whatever, etc., then i'd feel like submitting this other challenge to the attention of the reader: to oppose the bigot anti-cannabic prohibitionist army with a true "weapon of mass seduction" on planet Itnoc!!

In a way that's all it always was about since the begining.

Good day, have fun!!

[Drewsif]

The absolute best and actually the only acceptable extraction I've gotten from a handheld has been from the Arizer Solo, with the thin, wide spread 4 hole PVHES 'shorty' bowls that planet vape used to make. The ones that accepted a sprung stainless convex (contact lens) screen across the 4 hole piece. Last time I bought some, the design had changed too much, they wouldn't suspend a mesh screen above the 4 hole wafer, the 4 holes were too close to the center, and too small.

The people designing these vapes are morons, I'll just say that. I wasted money on an e-nano, only to find it has zero engineering, the flow is sucked right down the center: THE PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE, nothing to spread it out, leaving the herb around the edges to soak up the melting resin, making the path narrower every hit.

You have to suck air THROUGH the herb, through all of it. Not through some of it and by the rest of it. The herb itself should be treated as a filter. Hard to medium packed, medium grind, forcing air to extract the volatiles out. Throughout the entire width of the herb pack.

Allegory to bad vape design :You can't filter your grow room stink by blowing a fan over a pile of carbon. It has to be forced through its entire mass. Likewise, you can't extract melted oil from plant fiber by blowing heat acrossed it.

The original Solo was on spot at one time. But they kept changing the heat, and they never made glass for it worth a shit. Too thick, won't hold a screen, covers the air inlets. Outlets too narrow, outlets too small. Always something. It needs to be thin. The intake needs to be spread out to the edges, and the restriction behind the herb needs to serve one purpose: keeping the drawn airflow spread to the outer edges of the bowl so the path of least resistance is equal across the width, not down the center (4-5 holes around the perimeter, none in the center, with a mesh screen SUSPENDING the bud away from the plate for maximum surface contact with flowing air and minimal contact with the glass which reduces desired air contact).

Oh and a curved neck to catch particles missed by the mesh.. (Thats not a health issue, eating room temp weed is good for you, it won't suck through much once the resin starts melting so extra filtration is non issue, plus, 1/2" mesh comes in all sorts of fineness if you cant keep from dry sucking. Don't grind your herb into dust and it isn't noticable at all.. Only if you load your vape by sucking it up, or otherwise take a dry hit.) The expectorant properties of vaping itself completely negate any inert materials entering the lung, ie keef. I promise you, you inhale more dust from the air within 30 minutes of breathing. Vaping removes that too.


If anyone wants to make custom bowls for the Solo, I will guide you along the way. I think I already have. Planet Vape has went retard for some reason. Im not sure what the new Arizer glass looks like. Im dreading breaking my last original PVHES. Actually trying not to think about it..


Oh I also forgot to mention the Arizer EQ. Swap the female to female bowl with a wider ufo shaped one (FC member Ddave takes credit, if you cant find your own) and pack the upper top hat screen with bud.

The hard pack; forcing air through the bud, is the answer to all bad (conduction) vape designs. It doesn't work on the e-nano but the flow is wide enough on the EQ for "elbow packs". Wish some manufacturer would grasp this so the average person could have a good, full vaping experience without modding their new investment all to hell. Vapes like Mflb are just a novelty... Sucking air over the bud..no thanks, I dont want greasy leftovers and popcorn flavor! I want full extraction!

[Drewsif]

Originally Posted by Old Toker

OK.....for me the question has been answered. Yes there is THC remaining in my browns. However.....I still haven't exceeded 395f with my vaping. So maybe my browns are still too brown...or not black enough? I will try this again in the next few days with some of the same Malawi and eventually work up to 425f.

The color doesn't matter much, has more to do with how long the herb has been in the chamber than anything. Of course dirty chemical bud won't change color much, but we shouldn't be vaping metalic tasting bud anyway.

And to the guy saying Vapes don't taste as strongly as bho? Its amazing how different peoples experiences can be from region to region! Bho could never touch vaped flower taste or effects in my vaping experience. Always that basic sugary/spices taste, or the lemon taste, no complexity.

I've personally written concentrates off as a novelty since figuring out how a flower vape is suppossed to work. No need for the lesser satisfying fad product (no, the effects are not the same, Bho is missing something very important to my experience, making the buzz bland spacey, generic and soulless, non-therapeutic. But you know people who smoke say the same thing about vaping. (And i whisper under my breath "getting high off smoke and oxygen deprivation are we?"))

[b_bout_it_303]

When I vape, you can smell the funk in the air...no hiding it...even with my to go pen for oil...

[Herb Masta]

What's the most efficient vaporizer?

It seems like a simple question, but it's actually not that easy to answer, because it's highly dependent on your tolerance as well.

Generally speaking we can say that there are 3 types of efficiencies with a vaporizer:

1. Threshold-efficiency -> what's the minimum amount of herb you need to fill the bowl with, to produce good vapor (the larger the bowl usually the higher the amount this is. The Volcano for example is huge herb hog, but if you got a very high tolerance, it could still work out)
2. Session-efficiency -> generally speaking, conduction vapes like the PAX 3 heat your herb between your draws, which leads to waist during your session. Pure convection vapes don't have this issue. But there are actually only a few pure convection vapes, 1 of them is the Firefly 2.
3. Extraction-efficiency -> How quickly and effectively does the vaporizer extract the goodies out of your herb. This is a quite a subjective measure, but some vapes definitely extract the material quicker than others. The MIGHTY for example has an extremely powerful extraction.

In the end, it all depends on your tolerance. I personally have a low tolerance so I can get by with a few hits with tiny amounts of herb, for this style of vaping the Firefly 2 is perfect. My friend however has a very high tolerance and is much better off with the MIGHTY in terms of efficiency (he needs a full MIGHTY bowl and a full MIGHTY bowl will get you medicated stronger than a full Firefly 2 bowl for example).

One exception here are log vaporizers like the E-Nano. These vaporizers hit extremely hard (powerful extraction), but do so with really tiny amounts of herb. The only problem is these vapes are not portable.

Here you can find a full comparison of many different vapes and their efficiency:

https://www.herbonaut.com/best-dry-herb-vaporizer/

[GoneP]

Look into the Silver Silver desktop unit or the evo vapexhale. Both of them are high quality units. Highly recommended.

[Easy7]

I cannot find a vape I'd like. I want one I can vape compressed hash. Something to see the hash melt and vaporize on flowers. A big part lf smoking is seeing the combustion. Always enjoyed smoking hash on flowers the best.

[Browser]

Originally Posted by Easy7

I cannot find a vape I'd like. I want one I can vape compressed hash. Something to see the hash melt and vaporize on flowers. A big part lf smoking is seeing the combustion. Always enjoyed smoking hash on flowers the best.

Have you considered the Aromed?



B

[Egzoset]

Update:





Remember this set of Hybrid Cores was actually configured in order to maintain compatibility with "Bi-Energy", e.g. electro-magnetic INDUCTION HEAT...

But it is DIY only, sorry dudes.

N. B.: Though it's still in time for a Christmass project, i guess!...

Good day, have fun!!