[Speed of green]

MAXMURDER- the roof has a slight ridge and drains water flawlessly. the greenhouse has already survived the worst storm i have seen in this area, 50+ mph winds.

The tarp i have is black & white, going to get it installed tomorrow and put up some more pictures.


The fans are all located inside an insulated housing with insulated ducting. they were ridiculously loud before, but now they are pretty much silent, you can't tell they are running from 10' away. The 12" insulated ducting i got from GRAINGER was $45 for 25' it is mylar inside with glass insulation and more reinforced mylar on the outside. for the price i would highly recommend, the cheapest i could find online was double.


couple slabs coming out of the vac chamber.


a fan leaf



Thanks for reading.


I should have the drip and trellising up by the end of the week. going to start flowering tomorrow after i get the tarp installed.

[Speed of green]

aliette WDG is a fungicide made by bayer that they claim is okay to use on all types of fruit and berries, also they say it is okay to use on tobacco up to 3 days from harvest. says it treats many types of rot and fungi. anyone heard of or tried this? its priced well.

[Limeygreen]

you may consider serenade and potassium bicarbonate as a preventative spray on non flowering plants. milstop is a rip off, rhapsody or cease is better than serenade unless field applications and they have spreader sticker in them already so if you mix in your bicarbonate (don't use baking soda) it acts like your milstop without their 3 spreader stickers that can cause pytho toxicity if applied in too much sun or too high of a rate (varies on crop and variety) spray on clones until when you start flowering, not sure if it would be good to spray on flowering crops though. You should try predatory mites instead of spraying avid forbid and floramite, those are meant as curatives and not preventatives, I understand your concerns for mites but if you could get a biological programme going it would be way better than spraying.

[Speed of green]

Please Inform me limey, i need something that is going to prevent Powder mildew, Bud rot, spider mites, and caterpillars. I have no problem with organic/non chemical but it has to work.

the drip system is all set up, works like a charm. working on trellising tomorrow.

The drip system consists of

100 GPD R/O

275 gallon IBC tote

Northstar NSQ 5 GPH diaphragm pump

12v 17a 180w DC power source

20psi pressure regulator

Check Valve

5/8 plastic tubing

1/4 in plastic tubing

Netafim 3.3 GPH Pressure compensating drippers

The pump takes about 20sec to prime the system and all plants receive even amount of water.





I have one plant with some aphids on the bottoms of the leaves, what works well to eradicate these? Neem?

[CrushnYuba]

I got the same drip feeding setup for my greenhouses!!. I use a 12v diaphragm rv pump and 275g totes.
We do allot in common. Seems like you are on the chemical disease prevention wagon also.

I am somewhat commercial with very little help and I do some proactive bug and fungus protection and I never get any disease. This drastically lowers my work load and doesn't leave me scrambling to fix problems. To me an ounce of prevention is worth a kilo of cure.
For powdery mildew I use eagle 20 on mom's before I take cuts and then I burn sulfur in the greenhouse to prevent powdery.
For bugs I use forbid 4f and avid together through out veg depending on how long veg is. For deps with relatively short veg, I dip or spray once when they are babies and spray once before flower. All of my neighbors battled russet mites last year. I was fine.
For bud rot I use forge. I use it all the way into flower for prevention. Did wonders for my full seasons last year. Last year's fall was terrible. Just rained for dayyys. 4 day rain storms back to back. Everyone was either pulling early last year, or getting bad rot. I let mine finish rot free and healthy.

The systemic fungicide by bayer that works on bud rot is called flint. Trifloxystrobin. I think it's the only systemic that works on bud rot available right now. Not sure if it's ca legal.

[CrushnYuba]

Did those netafim drppers work well? I use bigger containers and drip tube in my setups. I have no automation for my smaller pots. Seems like a good way to automate watering smaller pots.

[CrushnYuba]

Does one emitter per pot get a nice even water or do you get dry spots?

[Speed of green]

yeah I'm going to stay on top of the preventative. stoked to see some flowers.

diaphragm pumps are fucking awesome, i was stuck in the stone age hand watering for a couple years, i finally saw the light. i like the idea of inspecting each plant during hand watering, but rolling around doing yoga in the dirt twice a week with a watering wand is not worth it.

the netafim stakes are quality, they do a spray/mist though, not a drip. They do not clog, thats the main reason i use them, also if you notice in the picture i have the stake in the soil at an angle, it is pointed down because the spray gets a little crazy so i just point it down so it doesn't spray the leaves. i think the spray is crazy because the water pressure is too high, i need to get a better pressure regulator i think that will calm the spray down.

the pot gets completely soaked, i water until i get a good runoff. I'm hoping with these small pots i will be able to feed multiple times a day.

[queequeg152]

so refreshing to see a greenhouse grow.

i honestly cannot understand why indoor still is so popular in legal states. for the cash you spend on an 20ish light indoor setup... surely you could lease a some property and throw up an EMT hoop house?

i am curious to hear why you think the system takes 20 seconds to prime? i run a similar setup though a bit more complicated.

it primes almost instantly though. the pump ramps up and the they all crack open at the same time... they hiss for a bit and spray mist, but after a second or two they settle down into a fine spray with alot less mist.

love the netafim stakes and arrow drippers... been using them since like 2012. ive never had to throw one away that was not steped on. they do get crusty though... but i have pretty hard water. some HCl solution takes that all off though.

if you ever build another greenhouse, please consider steel hoops... no offense, but as an engineer... PVC is inferior in literally all aspects to even thin walled EMT tubing.
you can space steel hoops at 4' trivially, and then pull the poly cover very tightly to get a wonderfully rigid structure. will it survive a hurricane? definatly not, but no greenhouse will.
steel hoops are even easier to build imho... you just need to buy the bending jig they sell at all the greenhouse supply stores.

if you want to get crazy, there are swaging tools that allow you to shrink the ends of the steel tubing such that they will nest into each other where they can then be bolted together to make hoops spanning 30+ feet.

[Speed of green]

the major appeal to indoor for me is still control, odor mainly, i have no idea if this is going to be smell proof. LED technology is catching up rapidly, my friend in LA county has an experimental section in his warehouse, in a 10x10 grid he is doing one 50w led per sqft, the led's are mounted on square tubing that has chilled water running through it, I know off this room he is hitting over 1gpw total electricity for the room, with no air conditioning.

I have a 20' hoop bender its for 1-3/8" chain link top rail. the reason i went with this odd shaped pvc house was because i have a height restriction, the hoop with straight 4' walls would have been around 16' tall in the center. this shape of greenhouse gives me 6' walls and a 7-1/2' overall height.

the standard hoop with no straight walls sacrifices a lot of useable space on the sides where the hoop is low, this design gives me a better footprint.


the 20 second prime was from a completely dry system, it primes almost instantly, by the time i plug the pump in and walk 10' to the greenhouse all the sites are almost done hissing.