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#11
Old 03-01-2017, 08:08 AM
Stay Gel^N 247 Stay Gel^N 247 is offline
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Originally Posted by Speed of green View Post
More soil is a good idea, if you transplant into five gallons when you top. Then give another week or so, you'll be on track for that plant size.
I like it! Good luck!
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#12
Old 03-01-2017, 08:13 AM
CrushnYuba CrushnYuba is offline
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Your summers will be hard but anything's possible. I have tried similar projects.
12" inline fans suck for greenhouses in the summer. They will do a good job in winter and they will keep it ventilated during black out, but when the sun is shining, they are almost useless in summer.

If you really want to make this work, in the summer, Use thick shade cloth. Like 60%++ at least.
Also, you are going to find out real quick that having intake on one side and exhaust on the other, won't work. The intake side will be ok but by the time you get to the end, you are screwed. Move your exhausts to be evenly spaced on the roof. One on each end and one in the middle. Make your intakes evenly spaced at the floor boards. The sun is just to much and the end furthest from your intake is just going to be to hot with how you have it now. Solar gain is a bitch.
With your humidity, you need butt loads of directional air movement fans running a loop. Summer or winter. Only way to keep rot and disease away.
I would lay down white plastic on the floors. Try to reflect some heat out.
Are your days in summer humid when the sun is out? If they aren't that bad, it could be a game changer and we can talk cheap evaporative cooling.
You can't trellis the whole greenhouse. Especially with your humidity. You need rows.

Not trying to be negative. Just trying to help. I think it's cool what you are doing. I'm just trying to take some of the trial and error out of it. I tried the same thing. I did it with basically a big shed covered with rigid polycarbonate. I have lower humidity so evap cooling works well. Spring was great. Summers were really really hard. I live off grid so I can't do indoor. I have to run greenhouses.
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#13
Old 03-02-2017, 04:39 PM
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You can trellis the whole greenhouse with irrigation but you have to have it high enough to crawl and cut holes to pop through and spray and inspect.
I did it this way for years, pathogens (esp. Mites!) spread fast though. High canopy temperatures make spider mites a big problem too.
It'll work out! You'll find a way that works best for you.
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#14
Old 03-02-2017, 06:20 PM
CrushnYuba CrushnYuba is offline
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Yea. Crawling on the ground under trellis is brutal. The thing is 15ft wide. With the humidity you are talking about, you are going to have to be vigilant with checking for molds and pests. You need to know the very second you have a rot spot and it needs to be treated. Mold and mites spreads in greenhouses fast that aren't coastal.

I think what you are doing is really rad and I give you props. Please keep this thing going. See no evil, smell no evil. This would open some doors for people in more suburban areas. Maybe share it with the indoor forum. I bet there are allot of indoor growers in high humidity areas using carbon filters. I have always dreamt of being in a place you can flower outside year round. Up here, we just don't have the light in winter and it basically turns into an indoor.
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#15
Old 03-03-2017, 06:34 AM
Speed of green Speed of green is offline
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had all three fans running today, its like a wind tunnel in there, i think i have the airflow sorted for now. it was 76 at the hottest part of the day and the gh stayed 80deg 40% humidity.

At what temp / RH should i be in panic mode, i know it gets over 100 in Nc/grass valley.

My black 12mil tarp comes monday, I'm stoked to get everything in its final spot, hopefully start flowering in a week or so. Plants are growing very fast 1-2" per day it seems like.

for my preventative i have hit them with eagle20, forbid4f, floramite all when they were clones. I'm going to re apply eagle20, forbid and avid right before flower. I hate to use these products but crop failure almost certain without them.

I foliar fed with fulvic acid 1tbsp/gal and epsom 1.5tsp/gal a couple days ago, they are really stoked on that, leaves pointing straight up, tracking the sun all day.

i know I'm going to be army crawling through this thing once a week minimum, I'm not looking forward to it but a sacrifice that has to be made. at least there is a weed barrier so I'm not directly on the dirt.

The sun is powerful here, I'm really impressed with the growth rates I was seeing in February, i think year round light dep with some supplemental is totally possible, i think yield and potency may suffer slightly but overall i think its doable.


Thanks for the support! ill keep this updated. Also did ICMAG change the resolution on photo uploads? All my recent pictures look like shit, i know i took them on an iPhone but normally they are much better quality.
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#16
Old 03-03-2017, 06:49 AM
Speed of green Speed of green is offline
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Group photo.

The sun is over my right shoulder in this photo, you can see them all "pointing" towards my right.

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#17
Old 03-03-2017, 08:51 AM
CrushnYuba CrushnYuba is offline
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Not really sure when you should start panicking with temperatures. Grass valley is regularly over 90 and my plants rage. The real heat waves they slow down growing real bad. Your humidity makes it different. You should research vapor pressure deficit. High heat WITH high humidity can give you amazing growth rates. Find a vpd chart and im sure there are threads. Your conditions are ideal right now.
I use those toxic chemicals. People talk smack but I rather use it early on and prevent problems then use it to close to flowering because I had a problem... I would also use something for bud rot also because of your humidity. I use Forge SP or actinovate. It's organic and odorless and you can use it through flowering.
Bayer makes a new fungicide that can replace your eagle 20 for PM and it will also work as a systemic fungicide against bud rot. I have always wanted to try it but I don't really get much rot to try it with. As far as I know it's the only systemic that works against bud rot. It's also supposed to be safer then eagle 20.

1-2" a day is killing it. You will crush it in flower. Up here fall and spring runs potency and bag appeal go up. It straight looks like indoor. You just take a hit in yield.
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#18
Old 03-04-2017, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CrushnYuba View Post
Bayer makes a new fungicide that can replace your eagle 20 for PM and it will also work as a systemic fungicide against bud rot. .
crushnyuba- do you have the name?
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#19
Old 03-04-2017, 06:02 AM
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speed of green- nice thread thanks for sharin.

3 things pop into my head having just read this..

1- have you gotten much rain? the reason I ask is, your flat roof, I see you have support running down the middle but I think any heavy rain might collect and cause some major sagging in between your bows and maybe worse case rip your skin and soak plants, lights, fans etc.

2- you said your neighbors are semi cool but those 12" can fans run max rpms to get that 1700 cfm and the one I had was loud as fuck even with a massive filter and 20' of insulated ducting with a big ass gradual "u" shape, hearing 3 of those kicking on and off all night might bum the neighbors out especially x 3.

3- you said your black cover, is it white and black? that's what you want, white exposed to the sun and black on the inside. if you use just black your plants will be bummed under any direct sun, huge difference...
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#20
Old 03-04-2017, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Speed of green View Post
Group photo.

The sun is over my right shoulder in this photo, you can see them all "pointing" towards my right.

View Image
I love watching em track the sun
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