[GOT_BUD?]

Originally Posted by Dion

yeah i guess it just depends on if u think u need to add in specific wavelengths or just go with a shit ton of natural light?

It would be nice to have a little extra UVB for the last few weeks of flower. But I could get that from a couple of reptile fluorescents.

Originally Posted by pazi

I would give this a try:
https://aduraled.com/product/horticulture-led/1950-gla

Buy 16 modules for a 4x4 or 5x5 area and connect them up yourself with two drivers.

Again, no want, will, or desire to build my own.

[PetFlora]

Originally Posted by GOT_BUD?

Now these are interesting, but they have no supplemental LED's.

https://timbergrowlights.com/900-watt...are-framework/

As a long time Amare (CoB hybrid) and BML SPYDR 600 user (all mono diodes) and seeing lots of Timber like DIYs, I think the jury is out on how much of an affect the mono rings bring to the table BY COMPARISON. What they do offer is the ability to use them alone during early veg, and maybe even alone during late flower

Until several people do a side-by-side, opinions are worthless

[NewI]

Gonna get me a 900 too. Don't listen to people saying it's expensive and low quality.. It's the oposite

[FunkBomb]

Any light with a Cree CXB3590 or Bridgelux Vero cob is going to be a great light. Once this new Optilux Ursa light comes out that will be the case as well.

-Funk

[FortuneSeeker]

Not every ... you see, there are china copies with CXB and Cree diodes that are just crap build. Bad spectrum and bad positioning of the CXB among the diodes gives a mid hot spot that will do more bad than good. Currently I am in this situation and I prefer not to use the CXB at all.
Amare is great and that is what I aim for next.

[Smoking Lamp]

Originally Posted by PetFlora

As a long time Amare (CoB hybrid) and BML SPYDR 600 user (all mono diodes) and seeing lots of Timber like DIYs, I think the jury is out on how much of an affect the mono rings bring to the table BY COMPARISON. What they do offer is the ability to use them alone during early veg, and maybe even alone during late flower

Until several people do a side-by-side, opinions are worthless

i agree to an extent ...if side by side means well defined variables and controls...then i wholeheartedly agree.....otherwise i grate my teeth at that phrase...

[Smoking Lamp]

Originally Posted by FortuneSeeker

Not every ... you see, there are china copies with CXB and Cree diodes that are just crap build. Bad spectrum and bad positioning of the CXB among the diodes gives a mid hot spot that will do more bad than good. Currently I am in this situation and I prefer not to use the CXB at all.
Amare is great and that is what I aim for next.

iget the spacing argument and agree but......

lets putthis into context though because the example falls apart a tad......you basically have somewhere around the hotspot of a 150w hps and at worst a 400 w hps ...if we use raw PPF and continuing with that thinking a 600 or a thouey would be an even worse hotspot.......but they still get used......

[GOT_BUD?]

Originally Posted by Smoking Lamp

iget the spacing argument and agree but......

lets putthis into context though because the example falls apart a tad......you basically have somewhere around the hotspot of a 150w hps and at worst a 400 w hps ...if we use raw PPF and continuing with that thinking a 600 or a thouey would be an even worse hotspot.......but they still get used......

I agree with both of you. It kind of depends on one thing in my mind - height limitations. Which is a factor for me.

I really like the Amare. I had pretty much settled on them even though I knew I was going to have a problem with distance between plant and light.

I also really liked the new Ursa lights that are coming out (especially at that introductory price point). But again the same problem.

That's why I think I've settled my choice to the Timber Grow light frames. Yes, the frames are larger. But that's to spread the light out so I can get them closer to the plants. Potentially a foot or more closer than the Amare or Ursa. Amare recommends at least 24" to 30" without lenses, 36" or more with the lenses. I have not seen any info the Ursa's, but would assume it's similar due to construction. The Timber's I can get within 12" because of how spread out they are.

The downside to the Timber's are lack of UV due to being COB only. Ursa gets around this by speccing a different phosphor coating on the COBs they have made to deliver near UV spectrum. And Amare has 5 watt UV diodes. I can get around this shortcoming of the Timbers by using a supplemental floro tube that produces UV, the only question being how much to add. 1 foot tube? 2 foot? 4 foot? That's something I'll have to play around with once I get everything dialed in.

Food for thought...

[FortuneSeeker]

Originally Posted by Smoking Lamp

iget the spacing argument and agree but......

lets putthis into context though because the example falls apart a tad......you basically have somewhere around the hotspot of a 150w hps and at worst a 400 w hps ...if we use raw PPF and continuing with that thinking a 600 or a thouey would be an even worse hotspot.......but they still get used......

Another thing about China witch I don't agree with is the lack of knowledge for cannabis. I mean ... a LED manufacturer from China(won't say the name), a sales representative asked me, off topic, in a conversation if what we are growing is heroin or opium. Fo' real ?
That was the point that made me really rethink China overall.

[PetFlora]

FYI: 3 G13 X WW 31 days old from seed in my DIY bubbler, under Amare SE 220 (since replaced with SE 250). I did use the monos only until they had 3 nodes