[morgandecaptain]

Yeah,it's not the first drama or the last in LED tech,just thought this one was a bit over the line posting in their thread.

[Outlaws Den]

Two board build running 100w veg and 175-180w flower in a 2x2.5 tent.

[Outlaws Den]

Sorry forgot to upload

[morgandecaptain]

Very simple frame for a 3 board bar. Two 42 inch long 3/4" aluminum angle rails drilled to match the corner holes on the heatsinks with two 1/2 aluminum angles slightly shorter than the heatsinks pop riveted to the main rails.

[morgandecaptain]

Test,180 watts at the wall.

[majorana]

I saw a couple of Growmau5 youtube videos where he mentions Quantum Boards, but they were always sold out so I dropped it.

The LED Gardner just had a post where he did his DIY version of the build you can read up in the link, which got me thinking.

Besides the advantage of better output (181Lumen/watt!) and better distribution in comparison with COBs, the biggest draw for me to think of building around Samsung LM561C chips is that they don't need a heatsink (going up to 60W per board, according to the Horticulture Lighting Group, who build the Quantum Boards). Being based in Europe passive heatsinks are pretty much the biggest expense with DIY COB builds (due to weight/shipping).

So, does anybody here have experience building with these Samsung LEDs? I couldn't find on Digikey the bars mentioned by The LED Gardner, and soldering 3300 individual LEDs together in chains (aiming at 600W draw) is not something I wish upon myself. Any help, ideas, or best shared experience would be warmly thanked.

[majorana]

P.S.,

A more careful read of the Gardner's post (i.e., also the comments) led me to the strips he used: 1510-1585-ND.

Doing the math for 100 of those + drivers it doesn't to be any cheaper than my original plan of building more COB fixtures. But 181lpw (vs. my current 173lpw with Vero29B@1.05A; about 5% better efficiency) + better coverage/spread is still enough to think this might be worth a try.

Just please don't buy all of the stock! LOL

[Juan Budd]

Originally Posted by majorana

P.S.,

A more careful read of the Gardner's post (i.e., also the comments) led me to the strips he used: 1510-1585-ND.

Doing the math for 100 of those + drivers it doesn't to be any cheaper than my original plan of building more COB fixtures. But 181lpw (vs. my current 173lpw with Vero29B@1.05A; about 5% better efficiency) + better coverage/spread is still enough to think this might be worth a try.

Just please don't buy all of the stock! LOL

Hi majorana

saw your post over at the Vero thread and followed it here.

This is new kit to me (I had a glance at the QBs previously but not seen the Samsung strips). Thank you for bringing them to my attention, they may be just what I'm looking for a side lighting experiment I've got in mind (was thinking CFL's but these potentially much better).

They look very suitable for supplementary lighting and micro-grows but I think there might be a lack of penetration as main lighting for a larger tent particularly in comparison with COB and reflector combinations. Could maybe use the 560mm version (or at a push, the shorter ones) for a combination of side lighting and inter-plant lighting to supplement COBs overhead in a four plants in a square arrangement.

The LED Gardener used Digikey part no. 1510-1586-ND (Samsung SI-B8T05128HUS) which is the 4000k version and that has an efficacy of 187lm/w - nice

JB.

[majorana]

The 5000K reaches even 201lm/w (!) but from what I understand 3500 is still the temp to go with, right?

Given that this is all so new maybe I'll stick to the original Bridgelux Vero 29 project, and just try the 1m version of the Samsung (1510-1577-ND /
SI-B8U221B2HUS) when they become available as side lights like you suggested.

A very quick estimate is that I can wire 10 of those in series on a single HLG-240H-C1050 (drawing about ~230W), and see how it effects one side of my grow tent.

I'm doing plenty of mistakes myself in building everything, might as well let somebody else teach me from their mistakes first

[Juan Budd]

Originally Posted by majorana

The 5000K reaches even 201lm/w (!) but from what I understand 3500 is still the temp to go with, right?

Given that this is all so new maybe I'll stick to the original Bridgelux Vero 29 project, and just try the 1m version of the Samsung (1510-1577-ND /
SI-B8U221B2HUS) when they become available as side lights like you suggested.

A very quick estimate is that I can wire 10 of those in series on a single HLG-240H-C1050 (drawing about ~230W), and see how it effects one side of my grow tent.

I'm doing plenty of mistakes myself in building everything, might as well let somebody else teach me from their mistakes first

Many folk are much in favour of 4000k, especially as an all-rounder start to finish light. If you're unit growing (or running autos) in a single tent then they could be just the job. There is a theory (that sounds about right to me) that, to a certain extent, the colour of the light is only partially a factor and increasing the amount of light (as long as it's colour is in the right ball park) is at least as important. ie. more lumens at 4000k may well be better than less at 3500k. You could maybe add some 630nm overhead if you wanted to boost the red a bit.

The fact remains that very little is known about growing using LEDs and there is pretty much nothing available in the way of hard facts. So, give it your best guess and give it a go!

Definitely best to try to learn from the mistakes of others, for you will not have time to make them all yourself


JB.