[who dat is]

Directly from their website - https://www.centralcoastgarden.com/pr...green-cleaner/

Green Cleaner kills spider mites and their eggs, predatory mites, aphids, white flies, broad mites and russet mites on contact. This safe & all-natural, 100 percent concentrate product can be used as a solution to dip tender new cuttings in, to prevent garden contamination when outsourcing plant starts, and can be used from start through harvest as a treatment. We start with soybean oil and sodium lauryl sulfate. The soybean oil acts to quickly suffocate pests, such as spider mites, broad mites, and russet mites, while the sodium lauryl sulfate coats bugs in slimy goodness to immobilize them.

I had Hemp Russet Mites hitchhike in on some cuttings from my greenhouse this year. I got rid of them for a time using two or three applications of this product followed up with an application of several different types of predator mites that picked off any remaining survivors. They have showed up again and an application of a foliar spray with the Essential oil blend from Build A Soil didn't prove effective in putting a dent in them. I would also like to note that with any foliar spray application I also add Dr. Bronners soap, yucca extract, aloe extract, coconut water extract, and Pro Tekt silica.

I want to use Green Cleaner more in rotation but don't want to pay the high dollar sticker price of $35 for the 4 oz bottle I have sitting right here. Especially for a product that I feel could be replicated or even made better by myself for a fraction of the cost.

The ingredients listed on the bottle are as follows - verbatim from the bottle.

Active Ingredients
Soybean oil - 39%
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - 19%
Inert Ingredients - 42%
Water, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid

The biggest question mark on making it would be the amounts of the Inert Ingredients listed.

I know that by using this product in the past it seems like it can, and will, burn the shit out of your plants. The biggest factor with that seems to be if you let your plants dry out too much. I also backed off from their recommended application rates from their initial application rate to maybe only apply their secondary application rate of 1 oz/gallon.

What are your thoughts on replicating this formula? What amounts should I start playing with? Where can I affordably source the materials listed and in small enough amounts for this project?

If it makes sense I could even add in the previous stuff I mentioned that I already add to foliars into this mix so I can avoid having to do it in the future.

Any and all info, opinions, experience would be appreciated.

[Seaf0ur]

Sodium Citrate and Citric Acid are preservatives, SLS is a emulsifying/wetting agent made from a crystal like salt derived from sulfated lauryl alcohol which can dehydrate and kill insects.

Russets/Broads can enter diapause if they sense unfavorable conditions and they can hide inside calyxes so removing them mid-flower is quite difficult.

Dapause gets most growers... just when you think youre clean, they pop up 3 months later like they never left.

Best, most effective method I've seen is bedbug treatment... tent the area and apply heat until 140+ is achieved for 25+ minutes solid... that gets all cracks and crevices...

[Avinash.miles]

citric at 0.5% or less
i've been experimenting using citric in powdered form, can get a dr bronners soap that contains SLS and it seemed to work well as emulsifier/surfactant with added benefit of SLS
you already know i use ISO 99% or 91% at about 1 oz per gallon, sometime more

never mixed them all up and tried to replicate green cleaner, but i certainly wouldn't pay what they want for that stuff in the stores, can get a bottle of the dr bronners w SLS for 10$, nearly a gallon of 99% iso (great for cleaning pipes) for 20$, citric powder is pretty cheap.....

[who dat is]

There are a bunch of ways to skin a cat. For now I want to try this Green Cleaner route. Would you happen to be familiar with the best spot to source these materials and their potential costs? Any thoughts on ratios for things?

[MrBungle]

From what I read sodium lauryl sulfate is pretty narsty stuffs.. found in a lot of common household products

[Avinash.miles]

i used the bronners sls stuff at about 1 oz per gallon

[who dat is]

Originally Posted by Avinash.miles

i used the bronners sls stuff at about 1 oz per gallon

This stuff?

https://www.drbronner.com/DBMS/SALSU...ER/SSLI16.html

Did you use it alone or add it to stuff? I've never heard of it...

[Avinash.miles]

yes, WDI, that stuff

i used it along with essential oils and along with iso 99%

i hadn't heard of it either, but saw it on a shelf and decided to give it a try, bronners has never disappointed me...

[who dat is]

Originally Posted by Avinash.miles

yes, WDI, that stuff

i used it along with essential oils and along with iso 99%

i hadn't heard of it either, but saw it on a shelf and decided to give it a try, bronners has never disappointed me...

When you are incorporating iso into your sprays (I have the 91%) what ratios are you adding it at? Specifically ratios for foliar spray applications and not cleaning/disinfecting spray rates of course.

Thanks again for sticking in here

[Mikell]

Oz/gallon I believe he mentioned above for iso.

Bronner's is also my go-to, especially at half the price of agricultural use insecticidal soaps.

Plus, all that sweet Jesus information. The company is also pro cannabis, I believe originating with the good doctor as a result of his religious bent re: if He made it, it is good, or something along those lines.

I say give it a go but with a few caveats.

Experimenting takes money and time. Each solution will need clean plants, any that pass a basic phytotoxicity test will need clean (untreated) plants infested with the target pest.

Right off the bat, soybean oil is graded from raw unrefined up to pharmaceutical, compounding the number of tests by each grade.

Glow is the person you're looking for. He has experience deconstructing unknown recipes and should be able to point you in a better direction.

Given you already have a list and just need type/proportions, paying for analysis may be the simplest route and save much time, which I frequently find eclipses money in value.