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Testing soil ph is easy

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sproutco

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Modern plant production is a science, not an art. However, growers can’t afford to run their business as an experiment. Good scientists, and good growers, rely on constant measurement to assure the desired result of their efforts. Testing won’t wait until symptoms develop; it must begin before planting and continue throughout the crop. Analysis helps not only to solve problems, but to prevent them from happening.
Knowing the ph of your soil is important. You will need at least ph test strips from the petstore in the aquarium section or from brew your own beer/wine stores. Strips with a range of 4 to 7 ph should do. I highly suggest getting a regular ph meter that can be callibrated and can test the ph of liquids. Avoid probe type you just stick in the soil.



One way to test the soil ph is by carefully taking the plant out of the pot. About halfway down on the rootball, scrape 1/4 cup soil (60ml) off the roots. Place the soil in a container. Add 1/4 cup (60ml) of distilled water. Stir well. Allow to sit 15 to 30 minutes. Test the ph of this slurry. Note: it is best to test soil ph with this method using the same moisture level in the soil everytime. The ph is influenced by how wet the soil is before adding the distilled water.

Another way to test soil ph is by using the pour through method. This doesn't require removing any soil from the pot and makes this more convenient. After you have fertilized/watered and the soil is completely wet, wait 30 minutes. Then apply a few ounces (50-100 ml) of distilled water to the top of the pot till there is a slight runoff. Catch this runoff coming out of the drain holes maybe on a saucer. Test this ph.

Pour through method of adding distilled water and catching the runoff.


Soilless mixes that include peatmoss, perlite, vermiculite, pinebark, etc.. ph should be between 5.6 to 6.2. For a soil grow rather than soilless, ph should be about 6 to 6.5.

Adjusting your fertilizer water after mixing is important. The fertilizer water should be adjusted to about 5.8 to 6 ph (after mixing) when applied to a soilless mix. You would choose a higher ph for soil grows. Your ph, if not good, will gradually rise or lower to this better ph. This will also maintain the proper ph. You can use these to adjust the ph:
How to make your own "ph up" and "ph down"

Electrical conductivity (ec) can give you an idea of the fertilizer salts in the media. Too high or low. To test, take 1 part soil (1/4cup or 60ml)) and mix with 2 parts distilled water or just add water to your 1:1 ph testing you might have done above so its 2 parts water to 1 part soil. Mix well. Allow to sit 15 to 30 minutes. Filter the mixture to get the liquid using a coffee filter. Ec is measured in mmhos/cm or ds/m. For established plants it should be .8 to 1.2 and for seedlings .5 to .9 To convert this to ppm, you can estimate to multiply by about 700. (?)

Soluble salts levels by the 1:2 dilution method and associated interpretation.
EC (dS/m) y Interpretation
0-0.25
Very low - indicates probable deficiency.
0.25-0.75
Suitable for seedlings and salt-sensitive plants.
0.75-1.25
Desirable level for most plants.
1.75-2.25
Reduced growth, leaf marginal burn.

The pour through method of adding a slight amount distilled water to your pots already wet media and catching a slight runoff can also be used to test ec but is less accurate. The only value I have is by grower observation .5 to 2.5 ds/m with above 2 not really good.

Suggested values for pour-through or leachate test.

Rating EC reading micromhos (?)
Low 0-422
Acceptable 423-1136
Optimum 1137-2018
High 2019-2984
Very High 2895 and above

The pour through ec test is not well documented yet. This may require experimentation and good observation to know what level works best for you.

Good luck growing! :wave:

Pour through method reference: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-401.html
 
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just tested the pH and its 6.43... so I guess I'm pretty close to where I should be at.... I'll just let up on the watering and see how it goes.
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,

Or you could add Dolomite Lime to your soil and not have to worry a bout it.

As for pH'ing your fert solution- there are other schools of thought regarding this with respect to D.lime and humics acids for pH control.

But it seems to me that if I pH my fert solution to the low 6's does not hurt. And the comfort of knowing that I am not adding a liquid that can be well into the 4' or as high as 8's (using bubbled ewc/guano/molasses teas) putting an undue stress on the soil/plant/microkiddie environment.

Large swings in pH can not be a good thing even if it can be dealt with at the expense of plant health.

minds_I
 
G

Guest

I would never recommend the single probe rapitest soil ph tester it is garbage.I do have the two probe rapitest electronic soil tester for 25 bucks and find i9t to be real good for soil.Besides being accurate on the ph readings i8t gives you a good idea of the fert level of the soil.If you google "rapitest electronic soil tester" you can see it if interested.The best5 thing you can ever do for your soil ph though is to simply use 2 tbls of dolomite lime per gallon soil mix and to keep your nutrient ph between 6 and 7 and you'll have no ph problems
 
I've always heard in a soilless mix your pH should be lower like you were doing hydro. Why is that??? :confused:

I grow in a soilless mix of 50% peat and 50% perlite. I add 2 tbs/gal of the d.lime and after letting it sit for 2 weeks the pH is around 6.7. Should I add less d.lime to get a lower pH?
 

sproutco

Active member
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Don Chocolate said:
I've always heard in a soilless mix your pH should be lower like you were doing hydro. Why is that??? :confused:

I grow in a soilless mix of 50% peat and 50% perlite. I add 2 tbs/gal of the d.lime and after letting it sit for 2 weeks the pH is around 6.7. Should I add less d.lime to get a lower pH?
Yes. You should add less dolomite lime. Try 2/3 tablespoon per gallon of soil or a little over 1/4 cup per cubic foot instead. Your mix is called peatlite mix b and was developed at Cornell university. They used 5# lime per yard or 27 cubic feet of soil. That rate I gave would be about this.

When using less dolomite lime, you should maybe supplement your water with calcium and magnesium. You can add 1/4 teaspoon powdered gypsum + 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of water along with your regular fert. I do this about every third or fourth fert even with some dol. lime in the soil.
 
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G

Guest

I use ocean forest and a little perlite and dont ever let my ph drop below 6,I like around 6.5
 

minds_I

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SKELETOR said:
I use ocean forest and a little perlite and dont ever let my ph drop below 6,I like around 6.5

Hello,

Skeletor are you reffering to yoru ferst solution pH or your soil pH?

minds_I
 
G

Guest

Both,I wouldnt let my soil PH drop below six and I keep my nutrient PH between 6 and 7.I've had excessive yellowing during flower due to lockout from a low soil ph but I havent had any problem since I've been using the dolomite and keeping soil ph in the low 6s
 

BabyHughie

Member
sproutco said:
Another way to test soil ph is by using the pour through method. This doesn't require removing any soil from the pot and makes this more convenient. After you have fertilized/watered and the soil is completely wet, apply a few ounces of distilled water to the top of the pot till there is a slight runoff. Catch this runoff coming out of the drain holes maybe on a saucer. Test this ph.


Thats the way I like to do it, makes it easy you just test when you hit them with a straight watering. The first bits of water that come out are will get you the most accurate reading is what Ive read.

You can also test the TDS of your soil the same way. Its very important IMO to stay up on both of these, you might be shocked how high the TDS of your soil can get if using hydro nutes.
 

Mr GreenJeans

Sat Cat
Veteran
BabyHughie wrote: You can also test the TDS of your soil the same way. Its very important IMO to stay up on both of these, you might be shocked how high the TDS of your soil can get if using hydro nutes.

Thanks for posting that Hughie - my experience too. I've been surprised by EC off the scale of my meter ( stops at EC of 2 ) that had to be flushed out. Plants of course did much better after flushing. The plants from before I started looking at TDS in the soil - well, those girls had a smile upside down... :asskick:
 
Im using 50/30/20 coco/perlite/hydroton what should my pH be ?

Im aiming for 5.8 -6.2 using Canna .Rhiozotionic ,Nitrozyme and boost

I spoke to a dutch fella at the Hemp Expo who was talking a bout letting your P.H fluctuate to allow a wider range of nutrient's to absorb ,

So if you have a natural increase in your solution say in hydro or run off from soilless mix then it is benifical to start lower and let it naturally increase .
 
G

Guest

I am running coco/perlite hydroton. hand watered. I have recently got a good ph pen and a tds meter.

I am trying to check the ph of my gallon water/nute mix before feeding, and the ph reads 7.1. So I add a tbs of gh ph down. It moves the ph to 7. I add another tbs of ph down...it moves the ph to 6.9. All the time my tds rises abit. How much ph down is required? I don't want to add too much ph down. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

I have never tried to adjust my water before, as I've just been happy with a ph of 6.8 to 7, and everythings been fine. Any suggestions or questions would be appreciated.

Cheers,
SH
 
G

Guest

Man thats an incredible amount of GH ph down just to lower it a couple points,my tap ph is around 7.4 and it only takes 1/2 an eyedropper to get it around 6.4,The only thing I can think of that would cause that would be an incredibly high TDS in your tapwater.The cleaner the water,the less ph up or down is needed for adjustment,really dirty water will take more ph up or down to get an adjustment
 
G

Guest

holy cow...I just read on the gh website to wait 30 min after adding the ph down to reread. I waited like 2 mins. Oh boy....this could be bad. Does that sound right...wait 30 mins?

Cheers,
SH
 
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