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| Forums > Marijuana Growing > Growroom Designs & Equipment > Growroom Lighting > mounting adjustable light & avoiding wires | ||
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 97
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mounting adjustable light & avoiding wires
Hey all, I want to put my lamp into this closet by drilling some 2x4s into the cieling and using S-hooks and a chain.
I just wanted to know if I should use a stud finder to locate where the wood should be drilled to, and also what I should use to find out where the electrical wires are running to in the cieling. |
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#2 |
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Never tell a soul!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 749
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Man be careful whatever you decide. I wasn't pickin man.
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#3 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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hey hey, a stud finders good (if you have one) though if not, use a small screw driver and push it up by hand (if its a flat roof could be trial and error) knocking helps find the studs, if you can get into the roof just stick a peice of wire or somthing visible in the hole you made with the screw driver to see how close you are to the nearest stud.
hope that helps |
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#4 |
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Yea sometimes you can tap the ceiling with the back of a screwdriver to find that "hollow" sound where the board would be.When you hit a joist there should be no electrical wires running along the bottom of it so that shouldnt be of concern.Most studs/joists are on 16 inch centers I believe but you cant count on that
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 97
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^I thought the hollow sound would indicate that there wasn't a wood piece there.
Since it looks like 2 400s are going to fit in there perfectly, I'll probably cut a 6" hole in the cieling to vent the air cooled lights directly into the attic. |
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#6 |
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Never tell a soul!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 749
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6" exhaust, oh yeh. There ya go leaf. Nope, the hollow sound means theres nothing back there man. I've always been a firm believer in picking that spot you need, push a straight coat hanger or stiff piece of wire (peice of 12-14gauge solid copper) through the ceiling, through the insulation, then crawl up there with a light and a tape measure, no matter how big a bitch it is and evaluate things from above. You never know what kinda dead wood has been nailed in to stiffen things. Sometimes surprises are not good. The tape measure is so you can confirm the spaceing between the boards and measure how far from a board you wire is, gives you a good place to start from below. Sometimes the insulation is a bitch to move or work with; quit itchy as well, so plan it out good when cutting so you only get itchy once. You don't wanna cut 2 6" holes unless you planned it that way which would allow you to externally cool those lights. :smile:
From what everybody says 2 600's is better than 2 400's for very little increase in cost. Oh yeh, if you got someone who can stand below and tap on the ceiling it helps get you to the spot easier. After all the sweat and scratching and bleeding you'll be rewarded with some centerfold smoke. Good luck leaf, 2buds |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 97
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Okay, thanks for the advice. I will put it into play shortly.
It will be only one 6" air cooled exhuast (the lamps will be linked together and then exhausted in one duct).. 400's will be used because MH only comes in 400. |
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 97
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Quote:
I do need to do that, but right now I need to drill a 2x4 into the ceiling. I'm afraid when drilling I might hit some electric. Can you please advise how to avoid hitting the electric? If I'm not mistaken, the electrical wires may be running on one of the boards I want to drill into, correct? Cause look at that light right there especially (upper left corner of photo). |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 59
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turn off breaker
could always turn off the breaker. drill what u gotta drill and hope for the best
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 97
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There has to be a right way to do this.
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