[stoned40yrs]

Originally Posted by doob

Yes i bet you have a right battle over there! Interested how you keep temps so high on lights off though. The box I have made will be insulated and sealed, the pots will slip in and I will stick a tube heater in there. That should keep them nice and toasty downstairs. Mine are raised on insulation etc before the tent, then they will be off the floor so it should keep them nice i hope

I close off my air intakes during lights off and stick a small heater in the rooms also. This keeps it around 60. I guarantee if the root zone gets in the 40s or low 50s you'll get lockouts. I learned the hard way.

[doob]

Originally Posted by jewcebox

will you be draining runoff out of boxes? heat and humidity + darkness= mold

They will be elevated, with an individual tray beneath each pot. Once the blumats are set up, they produce very little if any run off. So as long as i keep an eye on it and keep it clean will be fine (i hope haha)

Originally Posted by Bush Dr

Air temperature is not as important as humidity

I've had one of my best crops ever with the temperature of the intake fan reading-10C, as long as you keep the root zone in the 18-22C you'll be fine, just make sure they can drain properly ......the buds were so hard they ripped the pins out of a grinder and very potent too

Nice. This is my thinking, focus first keeping the roots/medium optimum temperature. And go from there. The box will be sealed so i wont be extracting all my heat out constantly

Originally Posted by stoned40yrs

I close off my air intakes during lights off and stick a small heater in the rooms also. This keeps it around 60. I guarantee if the root zone gets in the 40s or low 50s you'll get lockouts. I learned the hard way.

Yeah i dont plan on finding out what temps i get lock out I cant close intake where it is and I am not there all the time.

I will update this thread with how I am getting on, thanks for all the replies

[BAYSIK401]

Just my opinion..... Keep it all around 68....

I use big smart pots lights on 72, lights off 66, RH always around 55-62%...

Water temp before being applied is at 67-72, very nice..

[doob]

Updates woooo.

So far so good with my boxing in idea, the box is made out of 22mm MDF, which is strong enough to support the 4x plants in the cutouts. I have insulated the box with 20mm foam, and added a 45w tube heater inside. And it is keeping it at 24-25degC 24/7. It is literally perfect, so I am very happy so far.

These SS KillerKush went mad after I got it set up, a couple have completely out grown my space hehe











Lots of testing left to do, but this basically means I can stop growing Autos and get some Regs going very soon now I dont need to use the light to heat the space

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Anyone have any idea if having reservoir feed water temps in the mid 50's will cause lockout? Im showing Mag deficiencies but trying to chase it down is being a real pita. my reservoir water temps are usually around 52-57 degrees when we have real cold nights 10-20 degrees.

[Midwest Toker]

I start noticing deficiencies when my floor thermos drop to 65 degrees. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/gar...emperature.htm

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Originally Posted by Midwest Toker

I start noticing deficiencies when my floor thermos drop to 65 degrees. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/gar...emperature.htm

My Coco/bucket temps are a constant 70-72 degrees but my feed water is usually 55 degrees or so.

[cocktail frank]

anything under 60? degrees i believe slows absorbtion down to a crawl. the plant has no uptake at those temps.

[Midwest Toker]

By your avatar, we will be watching the same show on Saturday at 4pm.

[Midwest Toker]

Originally Posted by p0opstlnksal0t

My Coco/bucket temps are a constant 70-72 degrees but my feed water is usually 55 degrees or so.

You should avoid large swings in your root temps.