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| Forums > Marijuana Growing > Indoor Grows - Hydro > Organic Hydro > Can DWC be successful at 80 res temp | ||
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 584
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Can DWC be successful at 80 res temp
Hey all been doing some research on attempting a DWC grow and have a question being that I live in a place where heat is an issue. Can I be successful growing in DWC and keeping res Temps at 80 degree? If so how or what additives should I include to protect against root rot
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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Are you planning on a live res? if so, mycorrhizal fungi such as Great White or VAM-Endo mix and Silica such as Silica Blast.. when using silica with mycorrhizal fungi you should add the silica first, then PH, then add the rest of your stuff. Silica holds a high PH that will kill a part of the myco herd if you add the myco's first then the silica.
Then Id start having fun with ameno acids, Fulvic/Humic acid, enzymes and all the other stuff that HELPS your plant break down its food so it doesnt have to work so damn hard to eat. The mycos and silica give you buffer room in less-than-optimal situations such as your 80* res and the mycos will eat the roots that die so they dont rot (which turns back into food for the plant). 21 ameno acids, Fulvic acid, humic acid, and enzymes are additives to help your plant eat and deliver the nutriants to the parts of the plant that needs it while not letting other parts of the plant be greedy... oh yea, they also prevent nute binding thus your plant will not waste so much nutes.. as far as im concerned, my learnings tell me I dont have to alt between water and feed every week/every other week, but rather keep your nutes at a lower, more reasonable does, do a one week water only flush in mid flower and the normal one at the end.. Also, both H202 and bleach KILLS your whole myco herd so beware if you contemplate using it. But I think you are supposed to kill them off with added H202 in your water week (mid flower) to prevent them from over colonizing and going ape shit on your plant in some way. That part I am the least sure of, but I have been studying the hell out of this stuff lately. I dont have the experience, but I verify research as much as I can. Unfortunately here you have some explanation in the goodie dept (additives) but not much science behind it so ive sourced everywhere from cannabis forums to agriculture articles. I am in the process of sourcing as much hutrients and additives as I can that are not 'hydro store' or 'cannabis' directed.. In the cannabis world they will shove anything down your throat, most cannafarmers dont know better whereas the Ag guys usually go to school for this shit and know what to look for in order to get results they want. Try looking for the products I told you about in Hydro store version, try canna, advanced nutrients, general hydroponics, or any other fancy hydro store name. theyall could give half a shit about whats in their products and dont care to promote you to buy whats right to keep your nute intake down, they rather feed you salt ferts without additives to make it harder for the plant to take it up and give the nutes a chance to bind together making them unusable :( not to mention shit like Great White, It has both ENDO Myco's and ECTO mycos when ECTO only collonize on WOOD type plants like Redwoods and Pine trees, while ECTO species prefer to colinize on the thinner stuff like flowers, ferns, and fruits, ect. They have some 21 names in their product and call it "Super Mega Hyped Up Phat Fleek Hella Wakka Flokka Flame Great White Shark Attack with 13 ADDITIVES THAT NEVER EXISTED TO MAN BEFORE WE FOUND THEM IN AN ANCIENT CATACOMB, ROTTING AWAY ROMAN FRUITS AND SEAWEED SKIMMED FROM ANCIENT ATLANTIS!!! ALSO WE ADDED THE 8 ADDITIVES EVERYONE ELSE USES TO GIVE YOU 21 SUPER CHARGED AND POWER PACKED ADDITIVES" all the while 2 of the additives they use takes over the whole root zone and fucks off the proper uptake which leaves you with deficiencies that shouldnt ever exist! Thats all exaggerated to prove a point, but you see what I mean, no? |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,295
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80*s is playing Russian Roulette with your plants
My last grow (hot summer) I was having that same issue. Once I got rez temps ~ 70*s, plant growth improved significantly, better still ~ 60*s I use a bubbler to start my plants, but once they get big enough I switch to my DIY Mini-Me F & D. It's a much safer method, and easier to work with See my sig if interested.
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Hail Hydro 2.0: New Beginnings https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=342785 https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=329619 Just because you weren't taught something doesn't mean it's not true, and vice versa |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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see thats why I said to start with the Mycos and Silica, You really need to start with the buffer products and do all you can to help your plant not work so hard to eat and transpire. you adding carbs, amenos, mycos, silica, enzymes, and all the acids ive mentioned is basically a waterballoon body cast to help buffer all the trauma. It wont ensure you to have a healthy crop, but It will give you the best fighting chance you can have. If you try the KISS method you have no chance, it will be very disheartening to lose your crop. Granted your crop wont reflect the amount of work you put into it, but you have a chance to have a crop at all :/
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#5 |
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Frequent Flyer
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: ~ In The Garden Pulling Weeds ~
Posts: 3,223
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Hygrozyme. With that being used 80 degree res temp is not a problem whatsoever.
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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#7 |
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Frequent Flyer
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: ~ In The Garden Pulling Weeds ~
Posts: 3,223
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With the kind of security it creates and the success I have had with hygrozyme, the price is not an issue when weighed against the peace of mind and 100% success rate.
Also it can be used at 6ml per gallon which is far less than stated on bottle so it goes quite a long ways. |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 481
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Have you done any research on enzyme products? In my searches I have found that the difference between most bottles of enzymes is the concentration. In fact its said that other than one place in the states (I think it is carefree?) most enzymes are produced by a hand full of companies who then distribute it in batches world wide to smaller places, and so fourth. My under skilled and partially educated self merely offers direction to water, if you have your own fancy pants water it cool with me haha
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Under lights
Posts: 842
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doing hydro without the 100% perfect setup is really just a make work project.... probably not going to win friends on an internet forum saying this but DWC is also for closet growers to feel tech-y
I have a ton of friends that have tried hydro with mixed success, Ie. the biggest yeilds I have ever seen, but also many lost crops.never seen a large DWC work EVER.I'd start with a high draining soiless and automate the feed, then convert to drip or aero after you get some hands on and a res chiller at the least. I'm not slagging hydro, but I am still in debt from trying to go all aero 3 years ago... and I don't care what anyone says no enzyme made will save roots that are submerged in water 24hrs a day even with amply bubbling at 80 deg.... |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Quebec/Canada
Posts: 946
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Water temp at 80deg. Equal disaster period ! At that temp water can't retain enough o2 to sustain a fast grow or nice harvest i kept mine at 66~68 to max out
o2 contain vs water temp(water to cold below 60deg slow the grow rate even if more o2 is in the mix imho ) This Bud is for you Rykus ![]()
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Sorry for my writing skill english is not my first language. ![]() peace to all |
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