Photosynthesis
Member
As some of you have known I have been sick for the past 4 months. It has given me plenty of time to reflect on my life, my family, my business, and pretty much anything else you could think of.
I was misdiagnosed for 3 months, and thus was being treated for the wrong ailment. For the past 6 weeks or so I have been treated for the correct thing, and have started to very slowly get better.
This has been a very long road, and at times my grow looked like I felt.
That being said, I told myself once I was better that I would post every recipe I have ever made online for the world to use.
I don't claim to be anyone other than myself. I am nothing more then an avid gardener that has been lucky enough to have the time and money to "play" with a lot of plant inputs.
There are unlimited ways to grow plants. The following is what has worked for me and many others over the years. Some recipes I have altered from what I have read from others. Hoping to better them in the process. Some I have started from scratch with.
The majority of what I use is from a lot of trial and error. I have fucked up way more then I have not. That is always the best way to learn.
Again, I am not a master of anything. I still learn everyday, but I hope to help people that are starting out in organics to be able to grow quality organic plants.
So here goes nothing.
My soil mix which will work from clone to harvest.
Photosynthesis's Organic Soil Mix:
This will make approximately 1 cubic foot of soil
3-gallons of peat moss
2- gallons rice hulls
2- gallons of worm casting/compost
1/2- cup oyster shell flour
1- cup gypsum
1/2- cup azomite
1/4- cup basalt rock dust
1/2- cup bentonite
1/2- cup crab shell meal
1/2- cup fish meal
1/2- cup High P bat guano
1/2- cup alfalfa meal
1/2- cup fish bone meal
1- cup kelp meal
1/4 cup granular humic acid
1/4 cup diatomaceous earth
1/2 gallon 3mm biochar
This mix can be used as a water only mix. Although after about 50-60 days depending on watering style some nutrients will need to be replenished. The easiest way is to veg in this, and then before you flower, top dress with your choice of organic nutrients.
With this mix I only have to water twice per week. Most people find this amazing, but it is how I have done it for years. Even here in Denver (where it is dry as fuck) I only water twice per week. In a 3 gallon smart pot I will only use 2 plastic beer cups worth of water twice per week.
There are a lot of ingredients in this mix that help to facilitate it staying moist, and biologically active. This may vary for you, but it is a good starting point.
You can plant directly into this soil. No need to let it sit. When recycling this soil add in the following per cubic foot of soil:
1/2- cup gypsum
1/4- cup azomite
1/8- cup basalt
1/4- cup crab shells
1/4- cup fish meal
1/4- cup high p guano
1/4- cup alfalfa meal
1/4- cup fish bone meal
1/2- cup kelp meal
1/4- cup diatomaceous earth.
Again no need to let this sit. You can plant in it right away.
Photosynethesis's Seed Starting Soil:
5- parts peat
1- part rice hulls
1- part compost
1- part worm castings
Per gallon of soil add the following
1-tablespoon of azomite
1- tablespoon of kelp meal
1- tablespoon of oyster shell flour
a pinch of powdered humic acid
This seed starting mix is very light, and fluffy, and is good for the first few weeks of a young plants life.
Photosyntesis's Neem and essential oil recipe for mites:
Per gallon of WARM water,
1oz. of neem oil (Ahimsa is the best)
1oz. of Dr. Bronner's baby soap (only use up to week 2 of flower)
a pinch of agsil 16 (approximately a 1/4 teaspoon)
2 Ml of Lavender essential oil
2 Ml of Rosemary essential oil
1 Ml of Thyme essential oil
1 Ml of Eucalyptus essential oil
Use this once per week until two weeks before harvest, and you will be mite free. This has developed since I landed in Denver, and the mites here drink up most organic remedies.
Only use Dr Bronner's up to the second week of flower as it can degrade trichomes. Make sure to always use warm water. If your neem is to thick to pour run your bottle under hot water first.
Photosynthesis's "Vegan" Plant Tea
5 gallons of plant tea
1/2- cup Yarrow
1/2- cup comfrey
1/2- cup Stinging nettles
1/2- cup horsetail grass
1/2- cup alfalfa meal
1/2- cup kelp meal
Before "veganics" was coined people were growing with vegan inputs. This is a recipe I came up with for people that didn't want to use any animal inputs.
I have personally used this for years, and it works well as a soil drench or foliar fed once per week. You can use this from veg to harvest.
The best way to make this tea is to bubble it in your 5 gallon compost tea brewer for 24-36 hours. If you don't have a brewer you can steep this tea for 48 hours. Make sure to stir this tea 4-5 times per day if steeping.
Depending on ambient temperatures, wind, etc, this brew can start to ferment in 3-4 days. That's why I always suggest to just steep for 48 hours.
Photosynthesis's Compost Tea Recipe
2-3 cups vermicompost/compost
2-4 tablespoons molasses(you can use sucanat if you want start with 1 teaspoon)
1/8 cup kelp meal
1/8-1/4 cup alfala meal
small pinch fish hydrolysate powder
As you can see above I have a bit of a variation in the ingredients. Your composted material, ambient temperatures, brew time etc, will dictate the outcome.
If you want you can start on the low side with the inputs, and then work your way up if necessary.
Brew this for 24-36 hours in a 5 gallon compost tea brewer. It may take you many brews to get your recipe exactly down, but none of them should end up as a "bad" brew.
Obviously if you have a microscope it will help along the process.
DIY SNS-203
1- ml Clove Bud essential Oil
1/3- ml Rosemary Essential Oil
1- tsp coconut oil
a few drops of surfactant (dr, bronner's, yucca, aloe, etc.)
Mix these ingredients into one gallon of water. I use this mostly as a soil drench. It works well used once a week to help keep things in check. The key is to put the coconut oil in a little warm water frst to help melt it down. If you want to you can purchase liquid coconut oil at most health food stores.
Legit SNS-203
1/2 teaspoon Clove essential oil
1/8 teaspoon Rosemary Essential oil
1/4 teaspoon Polyglycerl oleate (you can buy on amazon)
1 Teaspoon lauric Acid (you can buy on ebay)
Pre-mix the ingredients in a few ounces of water, and then mix that into 2 gallons of water.
I have recently switched to this recipe as I was able to find the ingredients online for a resonable price.
Photosynthesis's Fermented Liquid fertilizer recipe
32oz- EM1
32oz- Molasses
2- cups kelp
1-cup crab meal
1- cup shrimp meal
2- Tablespoons humic acid powder
5- teaspoons magnesium chloride
It took me 2 years to get this one down. I spoke many times to the guys at teraganix, and many other places to make this work. The problem I always ran into was the amount of time it took for the brew to ferment.
This recipe is for a 5 gallon brew. You can use anywhere from
1oz- 4oz. per gallon of water soil drenched. It can also be foliar fed at 1/4 to 1/2 oz. per gallon of water. You can choose whether you strain out the ingredients or not. I always just leave them in once the brew is done.
The way I brew it is in a 5 gallon bucket with a gamma lid, and then a install a beer brewing airlock in the gamma lid. You need to make sure the bucket and lid are very clean, and very dry. If not your brew may not work properly.
Place all of the ingredients into the bucket, fill with water, stir, and seal it up. Depending on temps it will take anywhere from 2 weeks to 90 days to brew. I tend to brew mine for 90 days. The key is to get the PH down below 3.7.
I have found out through much trial and error that you can hit 3.7 or lower, and then it can spike. So it is always safer to brew longer.
You can put any ingredients in the base brew. Just keep the total inputs between 3-5 cups per 5 gallon brew. The base ingredients being, EM1, Molasses, and Magnesium Chloride.
The key to this recipe is the magnesium chloride. Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of brew, and it will speed up the brewing process. That is how you can get a brew in the right PH within 2 weeks. It only took me 2 years to figure this out.
Now you can stop buying "bottled" nutes, and solubilizing bacteria products.
I was misdiagnosed for 3 months, and thus was being treated for the wrong ailment. For the past 6 weeks or so I have been treated for the correct thing, and have started to very slowly get better.
This has been a very long road, and at times my grow looked like I felt.
That being said, I told myself once I was better that I would post every recipe I have ever made online for the world to use. I don't claim to be anyone other than myself. I am nothing more then an avid gardener that has been lucky enough to have the time and money to "play" with a lot of plant inputs.
There are unlimited ways to grow plants. The following is what has worked for me and many others over the years. Some recipes I have altered from what I have read from others. Hoping to better them in the process. Some I have started from scratch with.
The majority of what I use is from a lot of trial and error. I have fucked up way more then I have not.
That is always the best way to learn. Again, I am not a master of anything. I still learn everyday, but I hope to help people that are starting out in organics to be able to grow quality organic plants.
So here goes nothing.
My soil mix which will work from clone to harvest.
Photosynthesis's Organic Soil Mix:
This will make approximately 1 cubic foot of soil
3-gallons of peat moss
2- gallons rice hulls
2- gallons of worm casting/compost
1/2- cup oyster shell flour
1- cup gypsum
1/2- cup azomite
1/4- cup basalt rock dust
1/2- cup bentonite
1/2- cup crab shell meal
1/2- cup fish meal
1/2- cup High P bat guano
1/2- cup alfalfa meal
1/2- cup fish bone meal
1- cup kelp meal
1/4 cup granular humic acid
1/4 cup diatomaceous earth
1/2 gallon 3mm biochar
This mix can be used as a water only mix. Although after about 50-60 days depending on watering style some nutrients will need to be replenished. The easiest way is to veg in this, and then before you flower, top dress with your choice of organic nutrients.
With this mix I only have to water twice per week. Most people find this amazing, but it is how I have done it for years. Even here in Denver (where it is dry as fuck) I only water twice per week. In a 3 gallon smart pot I will only use 2 plastic beer cups worth of water twice per week.
There are a lot of ingredients in this mix that help to facilitate it staying moist, and biologically active. This may vary for you, but it is a good starting point.
You can plant directly into this soil. No need to let it sit. When recycling this soil add in the following per cubic foot of soil:
1/2- cup gypsum
1/4- cup azomite
1/8- cup basalt
1/4- cup crab shells
1/4- cup fish meal
1/4- cup high p guano
1/4- cup alfalfa meal
1/4- cup fish bone meal
1/2- cup kelp meal
1/4- cup diatomaceous earth.
Again no need to let this sit. You can plant in it right away.
Photosynethesis's Seed Starting Soil:
5- parts peat
1- part rice hulls
1- part compost
1- part worm castings
Per gallon of soil add the following
1-tablespoon of azomite
1- tablespoon of kelp meal
1- tablespoon of oyster shell flour
a pinch of powdered humic acid
This seed starting mix is very light, and fluffy, and is good for the first few weeks of a young plants life.
Photosyntesis's Neem and essential oil recipe for mites:
Per gallon of WARM water,
1oz. of neem oil (Ahimsa is the best)
1oz. of Dr. Bronner's baby soap (only use up to week 2 of flower)
a pinch of agsil 16 (approximately a 1/4 teaspoon)
2 Ml of Lavender essential oil
2 Ml of Rosemary essential oil
1 Ml of Thyme essential oil
1 Ml of Eucalyptus essential oil
Use this once per week until two weeks before harvest, and you will be mite free. This has developed since I landed in Denver, and the mites here drink up most organic remedies.
Only use Dr Bronner's up to the second week of flower as it can degrade trichomes. Make sure to always use warm water. If your neem is to thick to pour run your bottle under hot water first.
Photosynthesis's "Vegan" Plant Tea
5 gallons of plant tea
1/2- cup Yarrow
1/2- cup comfrey
1/2- cup Stinging nettles
1/2- cup horsetail grass
1/2- cup alfalfa meal
1/2- cup kelp meal
Before "veganics" was coined people were growing with vegan inputs. This is a recipe I came up with for people that didn't want to use any animal inputs.
I have personally used this for years, and it works well as a soil drench or foliar fed once per week. You can use this from veg to harvest.
The best way to make this tea is to bubble it in your 5 gallon compost tea brewer for 24-36 hours. If you don't have a brewer you can steep this tea for 48 hours. Make sure to stir this tea 4-5 times per day if steeping.
Depending on ambient temperatures, wind, etc, this brew can start to ferment in 3-4 days. That's why I always suggest to just steep for 48 hours.
Photosynthesis's Compost Tea Recipe
2-3 cups vermicompost/compost
2-4 tablespoons molasses(you can use sucanat if you want start with 1 teaspoon)
1/8 cup kelp meal
1/8-1/4 cup alfala meal
small pinch fish hydrolysate powder
As you can see above I have a bit of a variation in the ingredients. Your composted material, ambient temperatures, brew time etc, will dictate the outcome.
If you want you can start on the low side with the inputs, and then work your way up if necessary.
Brew this for 24-36 hours in a 5 gallon compost tea brewer. It may take you many brews to get your recipe exactly down, but none of them should end up as a "bad" brew.
Obviously if you have a microscope it will help along the process.
DIY SNS-203
1- ml Clove Bud essential Oil
1/3- ml Rosemary Essential Oil
1- tsp coconut oil
a few drops of surfactant (dr, bronner's, yucca, aloe, etc.)
Mix these ingredients into one gallon of water. I use this mostly as a soil drench. It works well used once a week to help keep things in check. The key is to put the coconut oil in a little warm water frst to help melt it down. If you want to you can purchase liquid coconut oil at most health food stores.
Legit SNS-203
1/2 teaspoon Clove essential oil
1/8 teaspoon Rosemary Essential oil
1/4 teaspoon Polyglycerl oleate (you can buy on amazon)
1 Teaspoon lauric Acid (you can buy on ebay)
Pre-mix the ingredients in a few ounces of water, and then mix that into 2 gallons of water.
I have recently switched to this recipe as I was able to find the ingredients online for a resonable price.
Photosynthesis's Fermented Liquid fertilizer recipe
32oz- EM1
32oz- Molasses
2- cups kelp
1-cup crab meal
1- cup shrimp meal
2- Tablespoons humic acid powder
5- teaspoons magnesium chloride
It took me 2 years to get this one down. I spoke many times to the guys at teraganix, and many other places to make this work. The problem I always ran into was the amount of time it took for the brew to ferment.
This recipe is for a 5 gallon brew. You can use anywhere from
1oz- 4oz. per gallon of water soil drenched. It can also be foliar fed at 1/4 to 1/2 oz. per gallon of water. You can choose whether you strain out the ingredients or not. I always just leave them in once the brew is done.
The way I brew it is in a 5 gallon bucket with a gamma lid, and then a install a beer brewing airlock in the gamma lid. You need to make sure the bucket and lid are very clean, and very dry. If not your brew may not work properly.
Place all of the ingredients into the bucket, fill with water, stir, and seal it up. Depending on temps it will take anywhere from 2 weeks to 90 days to brew. I tend to brew mine for 90 days. The key is to get the PH down below 3.7.
I have found out through much trial and error that you can hit 3.7 or lower, and then it can spike. So it is always safer to brew longer.
You can put any ingredients in the base brew. Just keep the total inputs between 3-5 cups per 5 gallon brew. The base ingredients being, EM1, Molasses, and Magnesium Chloride.
The key to this recipe is the magnesium chloride. Use 1 teaspoon per gallon of brew, and it will speed up the brewing process. That is how you can get a brew in the right PH within 2 weeks. It only took me 2 years to figure this out.
Now you can stop buying "bottled" nutes, and solubilizing bacteria products.
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