[DJM]

Originally Posted by meadowman

awesome thread!!! very educational and i love seeing facts dispelled...lol

thank you..alot of people that perpetuate these myths, ironically have no proof to back it up..so I made sure to come with factual evidence

[DJM]

Originally Posted by RedBeardy5

I noticed my sealed rooms were in the 70% humidity range and my passive rooms were around 40-50%. But my sealed room blows the other rooms away. After reading your log I realized your absolutely correct about VPD. So I ordered a couple heavy duty foggers and humidity controls. Thanks for the log!

my pleasure. glad you noticed the difference..any grower worth his salt, that has well thought out rooms and tries running high rh, never goes back..its no coincidence

[DJM]

Originally Posted by Webster10

Is it always? I live in a very humid area and I'm pulling air in from outside. The space is 4×2×5. I use a 240cfm booster fan to provide fresh air, another 240cfm to cool the light and provide more airflow and a 190cfm inline for exhaust. Even with a small dehuey I maintain 60%-75% RH. Will I need a stronger dehue or is my airflow good enough to where I won't rot?

'
you will be fine, just keep youre temps in the right range in relation to those rh levels and you will be good...definitely make sure you have a ton of air circulation...a smart man once said, if you think you have enough air circulation, double it..im a firm believer in that

[DJM]

Originally Posted by Ichabod Crane

I run 60-80% RH with two times per minute air exchange. Very rarely do I get any mold or PM. Make sure you are not pulling in air from a seriously contaminated area and you should be good.

If you don't mind using eagle twenty I would spray that if you are worried about mold. But no later than the first week of flower. It says it can be used up to the day of harvest on fruit. Some one will get on here in a minute though and say I'm trying to poison you.

It is my experience that high RH makes for heavey strong plants.

Oh and the only time I had mold was when I plucked fans and some of the stem from the fan was trapped in the bud and molded.

good shit man. nice to see others doing the same..its subject that's rarely touched on..ive also never had mold in the 10 years ive been doing it this way...yet I know people that get mold running 50-60%, because they have badly thought out rooms

[DJM]

Originally Posted by Third Coast

Which brings to to my next question for OP. I assume with a solid canopy you are not doing any defoliating?

That has been my concern with leaf plucking, the droplet of moisture that beads up inside the bud is a great place for mold to take hold.

Im defoliating now...the canopy makes it very difficult and a lengthy process , but isles cost money, id rather work harder and maximize every sq foot of the room..since im on drippers isles really aren't necessary..its definitely not for every one..the trellis is 2 - 5 x 30s connected in the middle..when I defoliate, I untie about 3 feet between them , on the top and bottom trellis, pop up between the plants and work around that area, tie it back up and keep moving down..i also do the same around the parameter...takes a solid 8 hours to do the room, an isle would make it easier, but it would cost me a good 5 lbs per run from the loss of canopy...im no stranger to hard work, so I don't mind it..I do one major defoliating at day 18..i make sure that I pull down on the fan and take the entire stem off..at this stage , there is no flower, so the base of the fan is exposed to air and dries out..rot is a non issue....then I do another one at the start of flush..also pulling the fan down to make sure no dead pieces are left..i never pull fans from colas or tops, only from the secondary level of the canopy... below the top 10-12 inches..so its not an issue..if I pulled fans out of a cola, it may make it more susceptible to rot...plucking at the start of flush, opens the plants up, allowing more air to flow through them..At the same time I usually drop my temps and rh, so it makes rot really no concern

hope that clears it up

[dutchmasters420]

Can you please explain how you use the trellis?

[DJM]

Originally Posted by dutchmasters420

Can you please explain how you use the trellis?

sure. day 1 of flower I put the first layer trellis on..i lay it right on top, at the same level as the majority of my tops..usually they are all even, but if any are popping above the majority, I weave them through a farther hole in the trellis, making them all level...one can level any canopy regardless how many strains like this..first grow posted had like 5 diff strains and you can look back and see how leveled it is

day 5-7 of flower , when the tops are roughly 10 inches above the first layer of trellis, I put the second layer on..about 10-12 inches above the first layer, strain dependent...at that point the canopy has been leveled by the first layer and left to grow naturally up and through the second layer..if I need a third layer it gets put on around day 12, if not its left with 2 layers

the trellis is stabled into the wall on all sides, and tied together in the center, making it as tight as possible, guitar string tight...when laying the second or third later, I maneuver through the canopy in the same manner I described for defoliating in the previous post..its hard work , but allows me to use every sq foot of the room.. maximizing my space and lighting

hope that helps

[DJM]

I wanted to mention something else about my rooms..that surely many will scoff at..but I never see anyone doing it so I wanted to touch on it a bit..i gladly welcome any skepticism

i run a 5.5x5.5 footprint per hood..roughly 30 sq ft per 1kw..my canopy is roughly 360 sq feet, lit by 12kw

now there is a lot of misinformation going around on what the ideal "watts per sq foot" is and sq footage of the canopy per 1kw...as well as how close the bulb has to be to the plant..a lot of people think you need to run a 4x4 canopy per 1kw and have over 50 watts per sq foot to get yield and/or quality...this is absolute non sense and is something that gets perpetuated a lot and needs to be demystified..ive been saying for over a decade, 3x3s are meant for 400 watters, 4x4s are meant for 600 watters, 5x5s and up are meant for 1000 watters

now the reason why people think they cant utilize 5x5 or more per 1kw, is A. they hang their hoods way too low and/or B. they are running glass in their hoods...both are counter productive ime..im a firm believer in running open hoods, bolted as high as possible to the roof and never moved..ive ran as high as 6x6 per 1000 watter before and gotten as much as 2.72 pounds from 1 plant under 1 light...how many sq feet the hood can cover is in direct relation to the type of hood, and how high you hang it..higher you hang , larger area it covers..basic..I use the hoods I use because they throw a larger, more even footprint than any hood ive seen or used..with no hotspots what so ever..anyone who has ever ran vertizontals can attest to this and they usually run nothing else after

id like to use this picture to prove my point,,,these hood are 4 feet across..they are on 5.5 x5.5 footprints...notice how the tops dead center between the hoods are about the same size as the tops are directly under the light, even 4 feet down to the bottom..these plants were over 6 feet tall and 5 feet in diameter



running 30 sq feet per 1kw is nearly twice as large as the 16sq 4x4 that many people run per kw....if I ran a sog under each light, I could easily do 3 pounds or more a light with this large a footprint.., the less plants per light, the harder it is to yield..and even still I can do 2.5, partly due to how I maximize my sq footage per light...if you are running a 4x4 per kw, take youre glass out, raise youre hood and run a 5x5, ill guarantee youre yield will jump atleast 25% if not more

hope this helps someone out there and shows people that with growing, there is no wrong or right, there is no rule of thumb,,think outside of the box and anything is possible

[noyd666]

they still sell those old style hoods down here in oz, called chinaman hats. always thought they would be good coverage.

[TheArchitect]

I'm running a 5x5 footprint.

Definetly plenty of light, especially since I can boost it to 1150 if I want.

I'm pretty sure we are long lost brothers lol, I do a bunch of 'unconventional' stuff the canna community scoff at but science backs up. I used to run my hydro solution at 75f, never got rot. I have been preaching about vpd for a while, though it usually falls on deaf ears, glad you showed the results. I never run off nutrient solution, instead I do saturated media extracts(look that up if you don't do it already) to determine what my inputs need to be to keep a stable ec, and I water just enough to keep my media evenly moist.

So much mis-info in the canna industry, almost makes me want for regulation, almost.